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Safety Devices Roll cage ordered. Thats the cage in standard powder coated black with the upgrade of X and harness bars. Its a 6 week lead time so wont even be delivered before FCS but will hopefully be fitted before pugfest.
Heater matrix is being replaced next week. Its a slow leak but it is a leak none the less and needs to be done before the cage is fitted as the cage will have to be removed to get the dash out in the future!
Tom has got me some pug gearbox oil so will swap that out. No idea how much is in there at the moment.
Im currently trying to find some generally good 5.1 fluid to swap out the old dot4. And im still on the verge of buying some ds2500 pads.
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This post is an artistic work of fiction and falsehood. Only a fool would take anything posted above as fact.
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CHeers Retropug. Ive been looking around and price seems to vary and there seems to be good and bad stuff out there. Super blue would have been cool as i could have seen when i had flushed the system but apparently you cant put dye in fluid now.
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I orderd a 10mm 12v LED as a shift light and it comes with a 13mm bezel. Wanted to mount it properly so what better than doing a bit of 3d modelling and getting it 3d printed. Hopefully the dimensinos are all good. Im going to double side or super glue it to the steering wheel upper plastic. Its angled so should be visible.
Now ordered and for sale for £5.99. Took about £30 and the cost price isnt much less. Postage is still expensive at £6.52 so in total its cost me £12.06.
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Finally getting the last few pieces together for track time at fcs. Ferodo pads bought now along with 5.1 fluid. FCP1063H ordered for £150.24 which was the best price i could find.
Ferodo Pad part numbers:
FCP1063 match exactly the standard pad shape.
FCP565 are slightly deeper and use the full surface of the disc (but you have to fit them with new discs).
Ive been out and checked my discs and they have lips so looks like ill have to go for the standard shape. The code is FCP1063H where the H is DS2500.
Also bought 3x 500ml bottles of AP Racing 5.1 Fluid which has 269 degree boiling point when dry and 187 degree boiling point when wet. Seems to be better than other cheap ones.
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Link too the shift light ordering? looks a great idea that
Team Cyril
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(13-05-2016, 07:44 AM)Matt-Rallye Wrote: Link too the shift light ordering? looks a great idea that
So the LED is the 10mm one here which comes with the 13mm bezel.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-5-10mm-Ultra...oHpcoDCbXQ
and then this is what ive made and put on shapeways. Ive measured it all up but havent received one myself so its a beta product as its never been printed before. If you want to get it and risk it not being right its here...
https://www.shapeways.com/product/PYRFFS...d=59884442
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Update! Yesterday Tom came over and we started doing some car things. Car jacked up. Subframe off. Stole a few bolts off the original subframe and swapped them over to the seam welded frame.Put one of the long wishbone bolts in and it broke the captive nut. ground down the sub frame to get a spanner on the nut but there was no way it was going in. turns out there are two different types of subframes and two different kind of bolts. The threads were completely different!
The original rallye frame has shorter bolts with a fat thread and washers, the PAS mount has long cylinders inside the frame and the frame itself has locating plastic cones.The later subframe has longer finer threaded bolts where the washer is built into the bolt head, shorter PAS mount cylinders, no locating tabs.
Anyway all fitted along with some Meyle HD wishbones. Front end is nice and tight but tracking is way out!
Subframe done next job was to swap out the gear fluid. Checked that we could open the breather before dropping it out the bottom. Filled up with 2L of genuine pug stuff. £16.90 from the dealer. Old stuff came out black with no metal to see. New stuff went in lovely and clear/golden.
We also went to change out the brake fluid but of course one the osr nipple snapped.
Shift light 3d printed holder also arrived but its all too small again so may complain to shapeways that im building stuff to specific sizes and its consistanly coming out about 2% smaller.
Car is now with carl chambers to have the heater matrix changed, fit braided lines, swap out the fluid and sort out the nipple.
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Whats happen to the heat matrix? I must of missed the bit about that.
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(23-05-2016, 12:48 PM)Frosty Wrote: Whats happen to the heat matrix? I must of missed the bit about that.
in the history it says it has been leaking as had the rad but the rad was never replaced and there is no receipt for the matrix being replaced. I bet someone has just put rad weld in id judging by the crap that has previously been in the system. Now im running proper coolant there were some water droplets in the passenger foot well... i ate it... it wasnt tasty... it was coolant. this ties in with the slow coolant loss which isnt visibly leaking from anywhere, so im getting the matrix done now before its an issue and also before the cage goes in as the cage will have to be unbolted to replace the matrix in the future!
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Just out of curiosity, did you make or buy the seam welded subframe?
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(23-05-2016, 08:47 PM)ozonehostile Wrote: Just out of curiosity, did you make or buy the seam welded subframe?
It was 10 quid from grant. Essentially welding practice for him I think but it seems to do wonders for the front end.
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(23-05-2016, 09:10 PM)Eeyore Wrote: (23-05-2016, 08:47 PM)ozonehostile Wrote: Just out of curiosity, did you make or buy the seam welded subframe?
It was 10 quid from grant. Essentially welding practice for him I think but it seems to do wonders for the front end.
Ah cool, I welded mine up yesterday, will have to wait until the cars back together to experience the benefits. Was pondering if there would be a market selling properly welded subframes supplied powdercoated in a colour of choice
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Yes there probably would be. Would be a pain t to post and as said there are different versions so you would need to supply the correct set of bolts and spacers to go with it. Weld the captive nuts on and you'd be into a winner!
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(23-05-2016, 09:13 PM)ozonehostile Wrote: (23-05-2016, 09:10 PM)Eeyore Wrote: (23-05-2016, 08:47 PM)ozonehostile Wrote: Just out of curiosity, did you make or buy the seam welded subframe?
It was 10 quid from grant. Essentially welding practice for him I think but it seems to do wonders for the front end.
Ah cool, I welded mine up yesterday, will have to wait until the cars back together to experience the benefits. Was pondering if there would be a market selling properly welded subframes supplied powdercoated in a colour of choice
I think Rippthrough looked into this and decided that by the time he'd had it cleaned professionally in order to weld it without all the oily shite contaminating it it was looking like a lot more than most people would pay.
Worth looking into again though.
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If acid dip was handy...be quite simple to do a batch I guess.
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(23-05-2016, 09:34 PM)RetroPug Wrote: (23-05-2016, 09:13 PM)ozonehostile Wrote: (23-05-2016, 09:10 PM)Eeyore Wrote: (23-05-2016, 08:47 PM)ozonehostile Wrote: Just out of curiosity, did you make or buy the seam welded subframe?
It was 10 quid from grant. Essentially welding practice for him I think but it seems to do wonders for the front end.
Ah cool, I welded mine up yesterday, will have to wait until the cars back together to experience the benefits. Was pondering if there would be a market selling properly welded subframes supplied powdercoated in a colour of choice
I think Rippthrough looked into this and decided that by the time he'd had it cleaned professionally in order to weld it without all the oily shite contaminating it it was looking like a lot more than most people would pay.
Worth looking into again though.
Yeah that's what took me the longest time when I did mine cleaning all the crap out of it. Would have to be a small batch at a time sort of job and take subframes on a part exchange basis with the correct bolts etc. Probably work out around £120 by my rough calculations with my time and materials
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Looking good mate! Where did you get your braided brake lines from? Needing a set myself
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(24-05-2016, 07:51 PM)Mole man Wrote: Looking good mate! Where did you get your braided brake lines from? Needing a set myself
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they were off swampy a member on here. makes custom ones up for people.
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Update! Dropped the car off with Chambers last sunday evening after we had fitted the subframe and snapped nipples etc.
Heater matrix has now been replaced and it seems it was very leaky and full of leaves. Carl wasnt very impressed about gauge fitting and wires getting in the way but oh well! Seems like he really went to town and removed the entire thing and the steering column! Apparently its a genuine Nissens heater matrix so hopefully itll last a long time!
Braided front lines are now on and 5.1 fluid now installed. Rear nipple hasnt been removed but bled through the pipe fitting. Rear braided lines already fitted.
Subframe steering mount spacers have now been fitted. Turns out the subframe part they bolt to bent so that may have just been on the way over there! Spacers were too long for the later type subframe so they have been ground down and refitted.
Whilst it was in his garage it dropped some gearbox oil over his floor which turned out to be a damaged driveshaft seal. That has now been replaced so all fluids are new apart from PAS! Hurray and hopefully it will hold everything!
Tracking has also been done and was majorly out after lower coilovers fitted, new subframe and wishbones. Unsurprising! It felt like it was tripping over itself when i fitted the coilovers and then was dangerous once i had fitted the new subframe and wishbones. Now it should be spot on!
He also picked up on a few of the things I was going to do such as the brake vacuum pipe and fan wiring. Its all a work in progress!
Picking the car up tonight and then over the weekend will be fitting GTI6 rear shocks, shift light, more fan wiring, and ds2500 front pads. Bonus work includes making and fitting the cut down grille to increase air flow, possibly refurbing/fitting the upper strut brace along and then if theres time refurbing a full set of cyclones and fititng my pilot sport 3s to them! Then we should be FCS ready!
Cage is due for delivery on the 9th of june.
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Awesome. Making good steps towards show season.
I Don't Have A 306.
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Well the car is back and its a lot better! Front is nice and firm and tracking has been setup the same as carls race car. Apparently stock 306 is slightly toe in but the race cars are set up slightly toe out for better turn in. After lowering on coilovers and swapping the subframe and new wishbones mine had ended up being 2 degrees out! Drive home was much nicer!
Carl also showed me where it had dropped the gearbox oil. it had lost about a litre but all topped up and good now with the new seal,
Had a few things to do tonight but attacked a spare grille with the dremel and smashed out the primer. thought i had some satin black but turns out i have 5 cans of grey primer and 5 of lacquer but no black! Trip to halfrauds tomorrow! Looking good so far.
Inspiration from the BTCC car...
and my attempt so far!
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looking good man cant wait for fcs now!!!
On a break from 306oc for personal reasons. If anyone needs or wants me most of you have my number and or facebook messenger
Thanks for the good times guys n gals. I might be back. Who knows.
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Two days of sailing this weekend but lots of driving the car there and back. Tom came over today and we set about some of the final bits before FCS. Tom swapped over the front pads for the ferodo ds2500s. The old pads were pretty low so glad they are getting swapped out before the 2 hours of track abuse. Ferodo wear in says 30 - 40 stops of 4 second duration so hopefully ill achieve that before hitting the track. The old pads had grooves where the slight lip had worn through them. The ferodos seem to sit within the lip so shouldnt have any issues with reduced contact surface etc. Remove some excess fluid from the reservoir too.
Next job was swapping out the temporary TA technics rear shocks for the standard gti6 ones. Fitted those with the exhaust and heat shield in place. Wasnt too difficult just the compensator was the wrong way and also we had put the lower shock bolts in the wrong way round so getting shocks on and off was an issue. For future reference the nuts go on the outside and bolts from the inside!
Few other jobs included removing one of the rattly panels from the rear bench which just pulled out as it was only held in by 4 rivetts. Unfortunately revealed large unpainted areas inside the car but oh well. I also removed a wing mirror cap and broke it so currently on the hunt for replacements. And I looked at upgrading the fan wiring but decided not to... and looked at the oil "breather" but decided to do nothing about that as well...
meeting again on friday to get some cleaning action before leaving for fcs! oh and i stopped making the cut down grille as i couldnt get the finish i want and its going to take too much time for now.
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Really nice job on that grille mate
You could probably do the slam panel drop and then use some steel plate to lift the bonnet catch again?
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(30-05-2016, 10:10 PM)Dum-Dum Wrote: Really nice job on that grille mate
You could probably do the slam panel drop and then use some steel plate to lift the bonnet catch again?
yeh might have to try and modify a spare slam panel i have and then paint it all up. grille wont be going on for now.
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FYI 1629G0 is the part number for the accelerator cable kit. The nipple on these cables are a clamp type and not the soldered type that are one the car from the factory because of this the they can be made to any length.
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(31-05-2016, 12:22 PM)DeeTurbo Wrote: FYI 1629G0 is the part number for the accelerator cable kit. The nipple on these cables are a clamp type and not the soldered type that are one the car from the factory because of this the they can be made to any length.
sorry did i ask a question somewhere? little bit lost. I presume this is the accelerator kit that attaches to the pedal at one end but can then be cut down etc so that i could reduce all the extra cable i have lying around in the bay. ill look into it. thanks
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(06-05-2016, 01:29 PM)Eeyore Wrote: (06-05-2016, 12:02 PM)powerandtorque Wrote: Agreed, that looks like a nice tidy job you've done there with the routing - nice one!
I wonder if you wouldn't be better with the throttle linkage around the other way and using a shorter throttle cable though, as that would get rid of that comparatively sharp bend where the cable doubles back on itself that could, over time, lead to a heavy pedal.
Keep an eye on those fuel pipes too, as modern rubber hose is sh**e and can start perishing in mere months.
Havent investigated shorter cables yet as ive never really taken one out to look at it or even see how it attaches to the pedal.
Sorry, didn't realise it was a while back.
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ah there we go. Cheers mate. Im sure it wil be useful!
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