Blower not working

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Blower not working
#1
Hi all,

The blower on my 306 XS (phase 3) has decided it doesn't want to work this morning. There is no fan noise whatsoever regardless of what position the dial is in. Also, the fan normally quietly whirrs when in the off position (apparently normal behaviour) but even this isn't happening.

The AC button still lights up and the AC unit kicks in, also the rear heated window lights up and functions normally. I mention both of these as they are apparently connected to the blower in terms of fuse/relay being used. Regardless of this I have swapped fuses/relays that I believe to be related to the blower with no change.

So would I be right in saying 4 options to check???

1. Resistor - I've seen a lot of people say this is the first thing to consider after checking the fuses/relays. However, I came across someone who said their blower was always on full whack and it was because of a failed resistor. Kind of made sense that if the resistor fails, there is no... er... resistance so it gets full power! Maybe suggests this will waste my time looking into but happy to be corrected? If I were to check, am I right in thinking the resistor is attached to the blower motor on my phase 3?

2. Blower motor - No noise whatsoever so maybe the motor has died?


3. Switch - I guess this would be the thing to check if the motor/resistor are deemed good?

4. Short - A similar historic thread mentioned there was some kind of wire behind the stereo or clock that was shorting out and caused the motor to stop working. Just wondering if anyone else has heard about this or thinks it may be plausable? Surely there aren't lose wires hanging around behind the centre console? I will however add to the mix that my clock.temp dsiplay quite often stays in the dim mode and needs a friendly thump to make it light up. It has been like that for well over a year so surely unrelated but maybe my thumping has gradually caused a further issue?

Please help.... it's getting cold!!!
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#2
Just pull the electrical connector off the motor and put a test light between it. If it lights up the motor has gone. (which this sounds like) AC models dont have a resistor just to save you looking for one.
On a break from 306oc for personal reasons. If anyone needs or wants me most of you have my number and or facebook messenger
Thanks for the good times guys n gals. I might be back. Who knows.
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#3
Thanks! I'll move straight for the motor testing then. I got myself my first multimeter the other day so that might get it's first outing - just got to work out how to use the bugger now. Assume I'm just looking for 12v at the connections to the motor?

BTW... I thought that the resistor was to control speed of the blower motor which is surely irrespective of AC or not? I'm sure you're correct as I'm a newbie to opening my 306 up, just my oblivious observation.
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#4
Yeah a multi meter will work. I believe they are controlled differently in the ac models.
On a break from 306oc for personal reasons. If anyone needs or wants me most of you have my number and or facebook messenger
Thanks for the good times guys n gals. I might be back. Who knows.
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#5
what bash said

if no power on mine i found the block on the back of the control panel needed cleaning up
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#6
Check a green relay hasn't melted too
P1 XSi track car
2.4 LWB T4
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#7
Thanks all!

Multimeter check last night showed a good 12v hitting the motor which changed when moving the dial settings so looks like relays, fuses and switch all okay.

Finger pointing towards motor failure as you've predicted so replacement has been ordered.

Is there a special way to remove the electrical plug that connects to it? Was struggling to see it last night so was relying on brut force but didn't want to budge. Guessing it "clips" on somehow but was right up against the glove box at the front and couldn't get much purchase.

I guess the tube that runs into the centre of the motor is the AC feed and just pulls off. Didn't touch it at time as I was more bothered about the electric plug and doing my multimeter tests.
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#8
Is the tube from the motor still intact on yours? They're always broken these days lol. I can pretty much guarantee it'll snap off when you do try and remove it. It's the AC drain so not that important really.
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#9
Yes, tube all in tact. In fact it looks brand new under there!

"AC Drain" sounds important. Are we talking water or air drain? And what happens if it isn't there then?
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#10
Tried pulling the fan out to look at it?
Had the same problem as you today. Fan just died. 15 mins later it started working again, and better than ever. My problem has been that it wont give full force even on max. But after it died and started working again all of a sudden, it works perfectly Tongue
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#11
(10-11-2015, 02:04 PM)stevesmiff Wrote: Yes, tube all in tact. In fact it looks brand new under there!

"AC Drain" sounds important. Are we talking water or air drain? And what happens if it isn't there then?

Its a condensation drain but i honestly wouldn't worry too much. The main drain is under the evaporator so this little one on the blower motor is just for anything that passes that or comes in via the air intake under the scuttle.
Team Eaton


1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
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#12
(11-11-2015, 02:44 PM)Iaitoo Wrote: Tried pulling the fan out to look at it?

Tried but was having problem disconnecting the red plug. Is it just brut force or is it clipped on somehow? Couldn't see it as it was tight to the glovebox area.
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#13
Photo 
Havent pulled it apart myself yet. It is rain season here, and the sun is only up between 9 and 15. Have to wait until Sunday when Im not at work and the rain is supposed to stop.
You probably have to push something on the connector to free it. And wiggle it about a bit to loosen it Smile

Looking at this pic it looks like is either on the sides or going over the top of it.
[Image: BlowerMotor-1.jpg]
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#14
This looks the same as what I'm looking at. I've just had a good old tug at it (excuse the phrase) and not budging.

I've also just noticed from looking at mine, the screws either side of the red plug seem impossible to reach with a screwdriver without removing some part of the dash/glovebox area.

If you look at your pic, the two screws (bottom and right) are easily accessible but there are another two (just out of shot at the top) that are tucked behind the bar (that can be seen in the top left of the pic).

Weren't expecting to have to remove the dash on this one!!!
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#15
You can't remove that part of the dash unless you get a dremel out lol. Just force the screwdriver in there!

I'm sure the brown plug does just pull out but it's really tight. I've seen the wires ripped out of them a couple of times so make sure you're pulling the plug and not the wires. Get some purchase on it with mole grips or something.
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#16
Is the wiring so short, that you cant remove the fan, and then remove the plug after it has come down?
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#17
I think wire is long enough but new issue is getting to the screws at front to drop the motor. Might see if removing glove box helps tomorrow.  Heard this comes out pretty easily after removing two pins uunderneath. There's no way I can in there without moving something.
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#18
there may be some plastic clips with the plug to lock the connector block in, so it don't fall out, defeat the clips and the connector should just pull out?? interesting about the drain hose, connecting to the air con drain hose and then outside underneath somewhere.

Have checked and not noticed any damp patches on the carpet on the passenger side, other than when water got past the door card "film", drained thru the speaker and into the car, but will check as I will be crawling under the car for the next week I suspect.

No horrible smells either, but should have remembered the new vw beetle episode, wet carpet and car stinks, turned out the a/c drain hose did not have a hole to go thru, vw quality control or what.

Also polo water leak thru windscreen, so new screen fitted ( expensive but done on warranty ), tested, water seen seeping thru the spot welded joint on the screen pillar, so screen was sealed to body ok, but a leak somewhere on the roof!!

I don't work there any more, sharks a shissteres
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#19
Removing the plug just needs a bloody good wiggle. Theres no clips that hold it in but it could be that if something has gone wrong, the plug has partially melted so may need some welly.
You can take all the fan screws out quite easily without removing anything else except the plug. It looks like the front ones are impossible but if you use a correct sized screw driver, they will come out quite easily albeit at an angle.
Team Eaton


1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
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