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il add this here as well as Facebook to see what you guys think
have a go at diagnosing this!
lead up
new oil, new plugs for FCS, car running fine, Did around 100 laps track time with regular cooldowns but may have cooked the oil saw 130c at one point.... Drove home 100 miles started car next morning with the rattle??
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Its a bit hard to diagnose noise like this without actually stripping it down and having a look. Sounds top end as its quite a light tap rather than a dull thunk. I would be inclined to pull head off and have a look. Could be something as silly as a tight tappet.
On a break from 306oc for personal reasons. If anyone needs or wants me most of you have my number and or facebook messenger
Thanks for the good times guys n gals. I might be back. Who knows.
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its a thread to see what people think as
I've decided what's happening with this anyway after a sleep....
the girls getting Sorned before the month is out engine gearbox out treat engine bay for any rust then refit new engine and box ive rebuilt over the last year or so
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boost it. that'll fix it
Does sound top end though, fix it with a new engine?
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It's not the typical bent valvestem GTi6 tap that's for sure, I'd put my money on a failing/failed hydraulic lifter or similar.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in.  Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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defo top end.
lifter issue as per usual tappiness imho.
Good timing with the fresh engine nearly ready! We all knew she would get that wonderful engine you have rebuilt AND the shell deserves it with all the work you have put into her!
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have you checked the timing of the belt? had one thats slipped before causing it to slap a valve slightly. Other than that i would say a stuck tappet personally
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I've heard that noise before, been through any puddles recently?
/selftroll
TEAM CONROD SHITTING RALLYE!
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29-07-2015, 02:47 PM
(This post was last modified: 29-07-2015, 02:47 PM by silverzx.)
Bottom end?
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Sounds exactly what happened to mine at fcs keep driving and piston will get smashed to bits haha
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Yeah that sounds exactly the same as when my bottom end went  That also sounded rather top end at first until i got underneath and listened from under there.
Team Eaton
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29-07-2015, 07:06 PM
(This post was last modified: 29-07-2015, 07:07 PM by cully.)
il put this down to poor choice in oil not standing up to abuse on track
and probably my fault for jumping at the chance of more free track time
untill i strip the engine
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(29-07-2015, 07:06 PM)cully Wrote: il put this down to poor choice in oil not standing up to abuse on track
and probably my fault for jumping at the chance of more free track time
untill i strip the engine
What sized oil cooler do you run ??
Astor 6 Fast road/track project
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16 row aps cooler with mocal thermoplate oil was total quartz 7000 10/40 semi synthetic
looking at the oil charts its viscosity drops off very quickly over 100c
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Us Nissan boys use Fuchs Titan Pro which is about £10/L.
Opie Oils highly reccomend it, might be worth a look for the next engine?
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Just bought some of that for my supercharged one  as said highly recommended by opie oils
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Had nothing but problems with Titan Pro personally, caused uncontrollable incontinence of my engine from the vacuum pump.. Never was able to stop it leaking after that. Still leaks from there to this day after 2 sets of seals, different pumps and countless oil changes. Something in the oil seems to eat those seals.
Happened to myself and 3 other people that owned XUDs who did a group buy on Titan Pro.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in.  Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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Interesting
I bought 20w50/15w50 can't remember which right now, so hope mine doesn't leak
Used millers competition oil in the track car that was fine.
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(30-07-2015, 09:27 AM)Ruan Wrote: Had nothing but problems with Titan Pro personally, caused uncontrollable incontinence of my engine from the vacuum pump.. Never was able to stop it leaking after that. Still leaks from there to this day after 2 sets of seals, different pumps and countless oil changes. Something in the oil seems to eat those seals.
Happened to myself and 3 other people that owned XUDs who did a group buy on Titan Pro.
Er... My last SR20DET died from crank seal letting go.
Might not be coincidence?
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(30-07-2015, 09:55 AM)Lwilliams Wrote: Interesting
I bought 20w50/15w50 can't remember which right now, so hope mine doesn't leak
Used millers competition oil in the track car that was fine.
Yup I ended up switching to Millers CFS and then moved to Gulf Competition before it got expensive - both were fine and didn't aggravate the issue - still weeps, but not as bad.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in.  Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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My boosted xu10 runs happily on Titan race.
Night Blue VW Golf 7 GTD : Bianca 306 Rallye : Mini Cooper D (The Mrs')
![[Image: wallye-gtd.JPG?raw=1]](https://www.dropbox.com/s/pcxk1pgpaucznvr/wallye-gtd.JPG?raw=1)
HDi Owner for 200k/9 years
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(30-07-2015, 06:43 PM)C2K Wrote: My boosted xu10 runs happily on Titan race. 
Nice to know  thanks
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Funnily enough mines 'charged and running Fuchs Titan race whatever 10w50 and it's been leaking from every crevice since its been in.
Fed up of trying to stop it now.
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hmmm I wont be using Fuchs then
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Sounds like a normal 6 to me
/thread
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but its still not mixed its oil to coolant so  headgasket king !
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rather a £20 gasket than smashed valves/pistons
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i use mobil 10w/60 with stp additive in my sc 6 engine with a aps 16 row cooler never see above 95 even on the rollers but i dont use a silly thermostat
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tonight I got bored so stripped the sad engine
timing pinned up OK although the timing belt was a little slack, started to inspect the pulleys and belt and found this on the inlet pulley.........
once I took the pulley off and undone the bolts the cracked centre fell out!
took head off head looked good no obvious marks on the valves or pistons
took the bottom end off no obvious picked up or spun bearings
not looked at the block yet
so now where?
would a slack belt or damage pulley cause that much noise?
i guess ive got to get the journals sized
and get the valves out the head and spin them up to see if any are bent
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