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Hi all!
A good friend of mine cooked his engine and I have offered to sort it out for him. He has a 99 306 with a 1.4l petrol.
We have sourced a donor car and will start shifting the engines probably this evening.
Have tools, engine hoist and plenty of tea.
I usually work on 4x4s and I have only swapped a handful of fwd engines. Every time leaving the gearbox in the car. So split the engine from the gearbox and leave it mounted and just lift the engine. Pro's of doing this is it's less stuff to disconnect, lighter and less messy, no gearbox oil all over the floor, lol!
From some googling it would seem most people take the engine and gearbox out together. Is this recommended or can I just do my usual of leaving the box in place? (Any inaccessible bolts etc...?)
Any other gotchas?
thanks heaps!
Dan
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It's much easier to pull out both together, I've removed a few now.
Literally as easy as removing battery and intake, disconnecting main wiring harness, exhaust, driveshafts and then unbolting the 3 mounts.
To remove the engine on its own you've got a lot more unplugging and unbolting in a tight space, and the 'box only has one mount so would need supporting. You'll also still end up with smelly 'box oil on the floor either way lol.
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Haha ok!
I will take your word for it. I have googled a few posts and I've only ever come across people taking the engine and box out as a package. Figured I'd better ask anyway!
thanks!
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its not possible on these, mainly as there's not enough to support the engine in place nor enough room to get the engine separated from the box, and there's an intermediate bearing carrier due to equal length shafts.
only get oil on the floor by being a muppet :p
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(03-06-2015, 09:59 AM)welshpug Wrote: only get oil on the floor by being a muppet :p
Or by trying to be clever... I tried to funnel mine straight into an empty oil bottle once...problem was it flowed quicker than I expected and the bottle airlocked....oil everywhere!  I've just used the bucket since. 
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Definitely take both out together.
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I had planned to drain as much as possible into a pan before pulling the drive shafts. Still gets messy..
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Drain plug is on the side on the TU 'box, so just make sure its tipped slightly that way and it should all drain. Also check the magnetic plug as they often come out with an iron afro on the TU boxes...
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Defo easier to take engine and box out together had my engine out the same way :-)
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Didn't get a whole lot of time at it last night but I got the drive shafts off, exhaust, battery, intake, radiator, linkages and a lot of the cabling. Have a bit more clearing up around the engine before lifting it. Overall pretty handy so far. Lots of space to be working.
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Your getting there rightly lol ye handy cars to work on get sum pics up as u go at least Wat u have left any way lol
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Yeh on a TU there is loads of space... one of the advantages! Gets a bit tighter with diesels when youre working down the back of them!
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Completed the swap Saturday. Only bit of issue encountered was to do with the coolant. I found it difficult to get all the air out of the system, not convinced I have it all out yet. Removed the thermostat and back filled with coolant to get it in there. Second, the bottom radiator pipe connection is leaking a small bit. Can't get the thing to seal properly. In two minds about throwing in a can of rad-weld or to take it off and re-fit it........
Apart from that it was a simple enough swap. I can't remember ever having to use a 18mm socket before though!
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(08-06-2015, 07:41 AM)dantastic Wrote: Completed the swap Saturday. Only bit of issue encountered was to do with the coolant. I found it difficult to get all the air out of the system, not convinced I have it all out yet. Removed the thermostat and back filled with coolant to get it in there. Second, the bottom radiator pipe connection is leaking a small bit. Can't get the thing to seal properly. In two minds about throwing in a can of rad-weld or to take it off and re-fit it........
Apart from that it was a simple enough swap. I can't remember ever having to use a 18mm socket before though!
Did you do the trick with the 2ltr bottle in the rad to raise the level of coolant? Keep it brimmed to the top of the bottle, put it to a fast idle and open/close the bleed points (3 of them?).
The bottom rad hose has a funny connection, and I'm sure there is an o-ring inside the pipe which can 'roll'.
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Just shut the cap and blow down the overflow tube.
Custom roll cages/shiny suspension bits/general fabrication work undertaken, PM me.
Top engine mount repair/reinforcement/chocking for cracked chassis and high powered cars, drive in, drive out, 2 hour turnaround.
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(06-07-2015, 12:38 PM)jeioel12 Wrote: our getting there rightly lol ye handy cars to work on get sum pics up as u go at least Wat u have left any way lol
servicing stop
Someone block this dude. Advertising crap in a link.
On a break from 306oc for personal reasons. If anyone needs or wants me most of you have my number and or facebook messenger
Thanks for the good times guys n gals. I might be back. Who knows.
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I had a new user, goandgo, sign up and post a reply in my project thread. Same spam signature.
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and as if by magic they were gone 
report the post guys mods dont read all posts on the forum but we do get flagged to reported posts
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