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27-02-2015, 11:10 PM
(This post was last modified: 27-02-2015, 11:22 PM by rich_n_stace2014.)
Hi guys,
I've just fitted 2 new drop link bars and track rod ends.
First track rod End I'm convinced is in exactly the same position as the original, the drivers side I think I've done wrong.
Driving down the road the steering wheel is dropped to the right and also the drive is very rough, feels as though the wheels are fighting each other.
Any tips on how I can reset the alignment to like default pls? Its not safe to drive to garage in the current state
Thanks, Richard
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Look up the string method online. Seemingly u can get farely accurate results this way.
HDI D'Turbo Daily Driver ---- XUD D'Turbo Project
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28-02-2015, 12:03 AM
(This post was last modified: 28-02-2015, 12:05 AM by rich_n_stace2014.)
Ok, I've got an idea of the string method cheers
How much thread should be showing or how many turns roughly on the 306's? Want to get the steering fairly central before fine tuning with string method. I counted 24 full turns on passenger tre
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Just get the thing tracked. How cheap can you be?
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I've been toying with the string method, because every place I take my car to to have it tracked takes one look at it and says "we can't track that, it's too low."
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well it is too low, so sort it out ! :p
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(28-02-2015, 11:49 AM)welshpug Wrote: well it is too low, so sort it out ! :p
Screw you, hippy!
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(28-02-2015, 01:07 AM)HDi--Power Wrote: Just get the thing tracked. How cheap can you be?
It's not a case of being cheap, the car is not safe to drive until I've sorted it Feels as though it's going to buckle underneath otherwise I'd gladly take it to be tracked!
(28-02-2015, 10:35 AM)WiNgNuTz Wrote: I've been toying with the string method, because every place I take my car to to have it tracked takes one look at it and says "we can't track that, it's too low."
How can it be too low for them to track? Oh they can track it but would take them longer and they can't be arsed lol
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Probably cant get the tools on the wheels, nor the car on the ramp.
im no hippy, id rather be able to use my car, and have it handle as intended, not like a go cart (aka shite)
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I actually use my car on a daily basis, and quite like the way it handles. But yes, the excuse i usually get is that they can't get the equipment on the wheels as its too low.
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so you like a shite handling car?! just buy a vw/vauxhall, they're come like that as standard!
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Well you're entitled to your opinion, I think it handles quite well considering. Can we keep the thread on topic though? The handling of my car does not concern the OP with his tracking issues.
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28-02-2015, 02:14 PM
(This post was last modified: 28-02-2015, 02:22 PM by rich_n_stace2014.)
Was hoping one of you guys had recently done the TRE's and had a note on amount of thread left or turns. Must be pretty similar throughout the 306 range to make it stock unless there's excessive wear on components.I do know it needs a slight toe in to stop veering off track
Btw you can buy a fast track laser kit on eBay for around £70 which I will be buying for future tracking issues but for now I just need it to drive in a straight line to the garage
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they all vary, especially if aftermarket parts were used.
if you have only done one side, just wind the one side out till it drives in a straight line with the wheel straight, and it wont be too far off.
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I've done both sides, n/s I did last week and was driving fine,
It's only since replacing O/S TRE that it's driving horribly. I did notice the old TRE was slightly bent but the rod seems straight
Do you think I should match the thread to the N/S? Both the same part. Everything is stock except the drop link bars and the ends. Got those from EU/Wilco
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Right, I've set them both the same and it's now drivable although pulling left slightly
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If it's driving 'ok', get it to a garage, pay a tenner and get the tracking done properly.
I like to bodge and save money, but tracking has so many impacts if it's off
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Cheers will do, they get their tracking jig back Monday so car won't be driven until then.
While I've got your attention, do you know if all phase 3 drivers window switches are compatible?
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you need to count the pins on the window switches, i think there are 3 different types between ph2-3 some have the auto up feature some dont and they are not interchangable as the wiring differs between switches
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Ah I see. It's the auto up that I need. Current part is 11529
I took old one apart today and cleaned then put it together. Mirrors and passenger window now work but still no drivers window. Can hear relay click when I press the buttons now too
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If the relay clicks, the switch works. May be a motor fault or door loom issue.
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Are there any pin outs for the switch connector blocks online? Hoping I can give motor a quick burst from 12v supply to test if it's that or wiring problem. I know the loom connectors take a beating on the 306's due to flexing when the door is opened/closed but as the relays are working and also power is getting through to the passengers door it's got me slightly comfused. The motor wasn't making any funny noises or on a go slow before it stopped
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its not that easy, the switch pulls one side to earth s well as sending power.
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Update:
Tracking was done and handles like a dream
The drivers window reg is very temperamental so swapped out for another, one of the cables popped put causing the cable to churn up in the motor housing.
I think this was caused by one of the clips on the window jamming. Still can't get window to not drop to the left
Cully, can you have a look at my other post re: blower motor please, Thx
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