Is my idle not right? (XUD)

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Is my idle not right? (XUD)
#1
Hi.

My car's always idled bang on 500rpm, hot or cold. A few weeks ago, it would start from cold and sit at 500, but then once hot, idles at just over 1000rpm. Has started creeping up when cold too

[Image: upload_-1.jpg]

Found a guide that mentioned 500rpm hot idle, and 1000 warm, which mine is doing tbh, but never used to.

I found the hot and cold adjustment screws on the fuel pump

[Image: upload_-1.jpg]

[Image: upload_-1.jpg]

but tbh didn't adjust them as why would they move? I did check the locking nut was tight and it was.

Checked again with the throttle cable disconnected, as it's a mashup of the old one and a new one I bought as the old one was frayed as it went into the guide, but the new ebay one was nowhere near long enough! Didnt make a difference though...

The dipstick was poking out too, pushed it back down...

[Image: upload_-1.jpg]

Really must do something about the bonnet sound deadening too...

[Image: upload_-1.jpg]

One of the reasons I was looking to tidy the engine up was it barely squeaked through the MOT in Jan thanks to the emissions. I;m lucky to know a friendly MOT place, and it took 2 tries on the machine, the first not being logged, the second after popping it outside and sitting on the rev limiter for a minute which bought it down to legal levels and smoked out the car park... Exhaust seems ok, the tester commented that there may be an air leak somewhere, I have no idea tbh, are there any common things that happen to the XUD to cause this? It gets hooned about to work and back, sits at 70-80 twice a day on the M40 etc... Does injector cleaner work on these? Didnt think there were injectors...

She needs a wash too...

[Image: upload_-1.jpg]

[Image: upload_-1.jpg]

The new tyres I put on have sorted out the wheel alignment though, old ones must have been as screwed as they looked...

[Image: upload_-1.jpg]

[Image: upload_-1.jpg]

[Image: upload_-1.jpg]

(10-05-2015, 05:51 PM)beko1987 Wrote: Hi.

My car's always idled bang on 500rpm, hot or cold. A few weeks ago, it would start from cold and sit at 500, but then once hot, idles at just over 1000rpm. Has started creeping up when cold too

[Image: upload_-1.jpg]

Found a guide that mentioned 500rpm hot idle, and 1000 warm, which mine is doing tbh, but never used to.

I found the hot and cold adjustment screws on the fuel pump

[Image: upload_-1.jpg]

[Image: upload_-1.jpg]

but tbh didn't adjust them as why would they move? I did check the locking nut was tight and it was.

Checked again with the throttle cable disconnected, as it's a mashup of the old one and a new one I bought as the old one was frayed as it went into the guide, but the new ebay one was nowhere near long enough! Didnt make a difference though...

The dipstick was poking out too, pushed it back down...

[Image: upload_-1.jpg]

Really must do something about the bonnet sound deadening too...

[Image: upload_-1.jpg]

One of the reasons I was looking to tidy the engine up was it barely squeaked through the MOT in Jan thanks to the emissions. I;m lucky to know a friendly MOT place, and it took 2 tries on the machine, the first not being logged, the second after popping it outside and sitting on the rev limiter for a minute which bought it down to legal levels and smoked out the car park... Exhaust seems ok, the tester commented that there may be an air leak somewhere, I have no idea tbh, are there any common things that happen to the XUD to cause this? It gets hooned about to work and back, sits at 70-80 twice a day on the M40 etc... Does injector cleaner work on these? Didnt think there were injectors...

She needs a wash too...

[Image: upload_-1.jpg]

[Image: upload_-1.jpg]

The new tyres I put on have sorted out the wheel alignment though, old ones must have been as screwed as they looked...

[Image: upload_-1.jpg]

[Image: upload_-1.jpg]

[Image: upload_-1.jpg]

Oooh, one more thing, occasinally, normally when starting back up after stopping for not very long this light flashes about 10 times, I don't have the manual, what does it mean?

[Image: upload_-1.jpg]

Fluid levels are fine so I'm calling citroen electrics for now, but an idea of what it warns of would be a start...
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#2
Should be around 800.. 500 is too low tbh where it is on 1st pic is bang on.

Dipstick popping out could be one of the breathers Thats blocked so itll find the easiest route being the dipstick
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#3
Light is oil level.

My Bosch acts the same, I don't have the hot/cold idle cable attached either. With the cable attached it should be about 1k cold and 7-800 warm. My guess is the waxstat is up the gunger.
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#4
Interesting, thanks!

Will hbol for breathers then, there is a bit of air coming out of the dipstick!

Oil level, thanks! Is this measured by a possibly smegged up sensor?
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#5
Just a little something I was told if your running veg oil have the idle set to 1000-1100 just helps in the cold to stop the engine struggling with the thicker fuel, thats if your using veg :p
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#6
(10-05-2015, 10:25 PM)kee616 Wrote: Just a little something I was told if your running veg oil have the idle set to 1000-1100 just helps in the cold to stop the engine struggling with the thicker fuel, thats if your using veg [emoji14]
Mine bounces between 1-1100 in the morning with veg oil.
After its warmed up it sits bang on 1000.
#2 Moonstone Blue HDI
[Image: 6b0c7309-5184-463c-9f73-2a7b96601418_zpsfdf041fe.jpg]
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#7
(11-05-2015, 05:07 AM)kentiiboii Wrote:
(10-05-2015, 10:25 PM)kee616 Wrote: Just a little something I was told if your running veg oil have the idle set to 1000-1100 just helps in the cold to stop the engine struggling with the thicker fuel, thats if your using veg [emoji14]
Mine bounces between 1-1100 in the morning with veg oil.
After its warmed up it sits bang on 1000.

That's a shout, running a high veg content tank atm...

Drove 6 miles to the co-op this morning to hermes a parcel and it was sitting here when I arrived at the shop

[Image: upload_-1.jpg]

After a 20 mile M40 blast it had settled down to

[Image: upload_-1.jpg]

Am I just being too paranoid about the whole thing and should just let it be?
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#8
From the look of things - you need to get the throttle cable sorted, the throttle isn't resting on it's stop at all - that will certainly affect the idle speed, especially when the wax stat starts pulling on the cable!

[Image: upload_-1.jpg]

This photo shows it being a good 5-10mm away from the stop.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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#9
I'll look at that, cheers! Bet I;ve nipped the bolt up in the past or something, and now it's getting warmer it's starting to affect it.

Don't suppose 306 throttle cables will fit a zx will they? I have a good 2-3cm of pedal floppiness at the top of the pedal which I couldn't dial out when fitting the cable
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#10
Sounds like the cable has stretched at some point, not sure about the 306 cables but you can get zx ones
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#11
You normally now buy a kit which you put a small brass grip on which fits in the throttle arm, so you can infinitely adjust the cable length - the pedal end is all the same.

That one looks like one originally off a petrol engined car, they tend to have a longer throttle cable.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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#12
This was one of those kits. And despite an email to the seller before buying it it was far, far too short. An email afterwards too once I'd bodged it to inform him was met with indifference too!

Anyonable toto

Sorry, pressed send by accident and my phone won't let me edit...

Anyone able to link to a decent throttle cable? I'd rather spend a few pennies on the simple stuff whilst saving up for the major bits!
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#13
This will be one courses of the problems your having then most likely :p
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