New car, major problems

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New car, major problems
#1
Since buying an old 306 at the beginning of the month I have replaced the injector leak off tubes and the brake indicator switch (which drew blood), major problems with cheap fixes. Unless I can fault find the faults below I think it will not stay that way.

Since buying the car I have only driven about 40 miles and put 30 litres of fuel in but the tank is only registering about 1/4 full. Noticed noticed a small patch of fuel below the back and seems the tank is damp:

[Image: dampfueltank_zpsfbde0b62.jpg~original]

The fuel lines look intact and I've looked at the fuel strainer which has nothing obvious wrong:

[Image: fuelintakestrainer_zps037ac83b.jpg~original]

May have to go to a garage with this one.



Unknown fluid on the transmission and generally around underside of engine bay. It hasn't rained here for ages so sure it's not water. I can understand there being some fuel on the sump from the leaky injector tubes but not sure it would have spread this far:

[Image: unknownfluid_zps24ff5f55.jpg~original]

[Image: unknownfluid2_zps77b0509d.jpg~original]

[Image: unknownfluid3_zpse2862c57.jpg~original]



Leaky shock absorber and seized brake balance valve to top it off:

[Image: Leakingshock_zpsacacf28d.jpg~original]

[Image: seizedbrakebalancevalveandrustedhangar_z...g~original]

Not feeling the love for this 1.9TD yet Sad
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#2
Looks like an oil leak on engine...check cam cover area or turbo oil supply/drain.

Fuel could be the rubber elbow from filler neck, common tl go. But also may just be run off from engine oil leak. Wipe the tank clean and check again after a little while

Shockers can be had for peanuts on here...most chuck away standard ones I expect...best to do in pairs mind

And seized comp is common too, soaked in wd40 and free up with pliers.

Did anyone from here go with you to see the car before you bought it?
Wishes for more power...
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#3
Leaks spread a long way, that could easily be diesel from the leak offs down there, mixed with a bit of tranny fluid and engine oil as well knowing 306s haha. Degrease it and see how much comes back. Smile

I've scrapped loads of good shocks lol, easy to change as well. And as for the load compensator....EBD FTW here lol.
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#4
If you get desperate for shock absorbers then I've just removed a pair off a 1.9DT, hubs connected as well if needed. All look in good condition

Let me know if any use to you.
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#5
Yeah see...no major issues Smile
Wishes for more power...
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#6
Looks like every 306 I've ever owned.

Cam cover gasket, leak off pipes and sometimes sump plug washer.
all those leaks can spray horrible looking oil all over the underside of the car, but it's no problem.

f*cked shocks is quite common, the cars are getting on abit so it's to be expected - as is the rusted up brake balancer.

You'll probably find the bushes in the suspension arms are shot and the arms are usually bent from Kerb action, and the drop links are often mullered.
All cheap parts and all easy to fix.

You've gotta drop the arms off to sort the shock out anyway, 90% of the time the balljoint is so old you puncture the rubber so it's not worth re-using old arms.

IIRC you can get complete lower arms, with bushes and balljoins pre-installed for about 50 quid a side.
20 quid or so for both drop links.
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#7
Yes you can get cheap wishbones.....but not if you like them to stay in one piece for any length of time! Confused
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#8
I've been running them for years, not had any problems yet.
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#9
(24-06-2014, 12:08 PM)Toms306 Wrote: Yes you can get cheap wishbones.....but not if you like them to stay in one piece for any length of time! Confused

£50 for one wishbone isn't cheap crap prices . .Smile
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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#10
They all look like that underneath tbf.
Supercharged GTi6 Build
S14 Zenki Build
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#11
(24-06-2014, 01:32 PM)Mattcheese31 Wrote:
(24-06-2014, 12:08 PM)Toms306 Wrote: Yes you can get cheap wishbones.....but not if you like them to stay in one piece for any length of time! Confused

£50 for one wishbone isn't cheap crap prices . .Smile

Yea I'm totally lying, just checked.

They're about £26 a side the ones I'm using
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PEUGEOT-306-PO...337443b147

The current ones have been on 2 years/30K and seem alrite still.
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#12
(24-06-2014, 08:05 AM)mr_fish Wrote: If you get desperate for shock absorbers then I've just removed a pair off a 1.9DT, hubs connected as well if needed. All look in good condition

Let me know if any use to you.

Or not, need more posts first Talking
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#13
I somehow managed to delete this post before going to bed last night:

(24-06-2014, 04:56 AM)Piggy Wrote: Looks like an oil leak on engine...check cam cover area or turbo oil supply/drain.

I've had a look and think the cam cover is ok, the fuel filter is weeping a little bit and can't look at the turbo without risking getting squished. I’m a bit limited in undercar work, only got on street parking and my narrow one way road has quite a steep drainage fall and is a through road so always busy, hence not sure it's worth getting a jack and axle stands while i'm here.

(24-06-2014, 04:56 AM)Piggy Wrote: Fuel could be the rubber elbow from filler neck, common tl go. But also may just be run off from engine oil leak. Wipe the tank clean and check again after a little while

I’m pretty sure it’s not engine oil runoff, the space between the engine and the tank is dry. Can’t find anything about the filler neck in Haynes.


(24-06-2014, 04:56 AM)Piggy Wrote: And seized comp is common too, soaked in wd40 and free up with pliers.

Freed it up somewhat but not sure it’s right, no tension in the springs.

(24-06-2014, 04:56 AM)Piggy Wrote: Did anyone from here go with you to see the car before you bought it?

Got a bit excited after passing my test and seemed to drive alright, there were no obvious wet patches under the car when I looked. Live and learn I suppose, seems like it may work out with a little help in the end Smile

Not going to trust it to drive to Sheffield just yet mind.


(24-06-2014, 08:05 AM)mr_fish Wrote: If you get desperate for shock absorbers then I've just removed a pair off a 1.9DT, hubs connected as well if needed. All look in good condition

Let me know if any use to you.

I will be in contact about this.
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#14
(24-06-2014, 02:35 PM)r3k1355 Wrote:
(24-06-2014, 01:32 PM)Mattcheese31 Wrote:
(24-06-2014, 12:08 PM)Toms306 Wrote: Yes you can get cheap wishbones.....but not if you like them to stay in one piece for any length of time! Confused

£50 for one wishbone isn't cheap crap prices . .Smile

Yea I'm totally lying, just checked.

They're about £26 a side the ones I'm using
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PEUGEOT-306-PO...337443b147

The current ones have been on 2 years/30K and seem alrite still.

I'm not trying to worry you about them....but just look how thin the front bush part is compared to a genuine wishbone, its a massive difference side by side. Obviously in normal service they should be fine, but hitting something like a pothole could snap it with ease! Confused Or maybe just fracture it the first time...hit a few more and.... Undecided

Heres one example... http://306oc.co.uk/forum/thread-13645.ht...ne+snapped

I'm sure Jimbo and a few others have had aftermarket wishbones snap as well. Not really something I'd like to chance personally.
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#15
I've had one snap too -wasn't too cheap either, was from ecp or gsf

running meyle hd now

but back ontopic, not really too much to worry about there in terms of problems. Most will hopefully be cheap / easy fixes.
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#16
Checked all the lines to the tank and can't see and leaks so think it's probably fine. The fuel filter was weeping a bit which could have been causing the engine bay mess, replaced oil and filter now.

Went for a 300m round trip this weekend, it did well. No need to change down from 5th on the steeper parts of the A38 Big Grin
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#17
Yea the low down torque on these engines is pretty nice really.
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#18
Pulled this out of the rear passenger side wheel arch the other day, not sure if it's worth wire brushing and applying underseal or if it's too late..

[Image: 2014-07-12204734_zps349dbfc6.jpg~original]

Also starts on 3 cylinders recently with lots of white smoke for a few seconds, glow plug or gasket as the likely culprit?


(24-06-2014, 08:05 AM)mr_fish Wrote: If you get desperate for shock absorbers then I've just removed a pair off a 1.9DT, hubs connected as well if needed. All look in good condition

Let me know if any use to you.

Went to get shocks, ended up with alloys and other toys too Big Grin, cheers mate. repped

Should look good when cleaned up:

[Image: 2014-07-12204650_zps8b7bee92.jpg~original]
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#19
err where exactly did you pull that bolt from??

It's probably worth getting the back end up in the air and having a poke around with a screwdriver and a wire brush, see what else is rusted to hell.
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#20
It seemed to be roughly where the seat release lever is. Maybe held the body work to the chassis? Should be able to get it on axle stands at the end of the month, should probably put off any big spends before then.
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#21
oh right, yea it's best to have a good look.
The 306 is pretty good at resisting rust, but there is one patch by the rear seats that can go.

The starting on 3 cylinders thing, is probably glow plugs - a fresh set of Bosch Deuraterms is whats needed.
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#22
Turns out the leaky suspension strut wasn't even for a 306, only had two bolt holes on instead of 3 (from a 206?). All replaced and good now though.

Replaced the clutch and a front wheel bearing 2 weeks ago with the help of madmadmax. It ended up taking 3 days, getting the transmission to go back on was a nightmare. Thought it was going to become a permanent feature of his back garden. Literally everything that could go wrong went wrong. I would have taken it to a garage or bought the proper tools if I had known how difficult it would be. Tools used for wheel bearing, 6lb sledge hammer/axe and socket to remove hub from bearing, angle grinder to remove bearing race left behind on hub, die grinder to cut out rusted in circlip after breaking two circlip removers, cold chisel, 20ounce hammer and a lot of patience to remove outer race after old bearing disintegrated. Sledge hammer and old bearing race as a drift to knock in the new bearing and finally a 6" record vice to press in the old hub. Jack without enough lift and nothing as fancy as a workshop crane lift the transmission back on, cue manhandling and lots of bruises and cuts. Did learn quite a bit but never again like that. Transmission only had about 1.2l of fluid too, got 2l of total 75w80 on the way. Bearing seems ok after 800 miles.
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#23
Good effort!

Get that rusted sorted and that fuel filter leak...bet the new clutch wont like diesel dribbling on it
Wishes for more power...
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#24
Good effort on doing the bearing by hand I don't even bother, even with a bearing press it's a faff.
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#25
(09-09-2014, 10:34 PM)Piggy Wrote: Good effort!

Get that rusted sorted and that fuel filter leak...bet the new clutch wont like diesel dribbling on it

Cheers, certainly feels like i'm starting to live for the 306. Sorted the fuel leaks but still starts rough sometimes.

Planning on doing 1200 mile round trip to scotland just after the referendum, having a hard time convincing my friends and myself that it's up to it though.
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#26
it will do the trip just keep an eye on it and check the oil at the half way point as thay all burn a bit, if anything unexspected happens just give me a ring or the aa or who ever it is your with. check it over and see that nuthings is at the minimum level as that length of trip will put a lot of where on stuff. oh and i have your haynes

take all the unneseserey items out of the car too like some of the back seats and other junk and make shour your spare is in good condition and inflated.
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#27
Check oil and coolant levels, fill it with diesel and drash on ThumbsUp
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