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Recently bought a 306 (see newbie thread), initially it struggled to start and I tracked what I thought to be the problem down to a split battery negative terminal. £2 later and it seemed to start better, after a short drive though I noticed it was leaking diesel from one of the injectors, replaced the leak off tubes and discovered the offending split tube in the process. Since then though I have been unable to start it, I have tried squeezing the primer a fair bit and also opened the nipple on the fuel inlet on the pump, although i didn't try the nipple until the battery was fairly run down.
I'm charging the battery this evening and will give it another go tomorrow, if anyone can give any advice or lend a hand I can repay with thanks or beer
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Just sounds like air has got in, get a decent battery/or jump leads on her. Prime it up with the grenade
She should go eventually then just give it a run and see how it is
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I think with older IDI ones u have to nip off the injectors one by one until fuel comes out of the pipe and then retighten it and do the next one.
Once all four are done it should start on the key. The 306 may be different but I had to do that on my old rover.
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Leak offs dont normally need much bleeding, as they are leak off, not supply.
Air can get sucked back, but I have never had starting issues once a set has been replaced.
Have you replaced the end bung too?
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Undo the injector unions, squeeze primer bulb, crank until fuel spurts out of unions, re tighten, should start
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
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Another method was to tow start it if you could and it would bleed itself.
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(14-06-2014, 07:26 PM)mcglynn Wrote: I think with older IDI ones u have to nip off the injectors one by one until fuel comes out of the pipe and then retighten it and do the next one.
Once all four are done it should start on the key. The 306 may be different but I had to do that on my old rover.
Yeah but that was a scrappy rover.
If the injector lines are dry, maybe one, at most two, may need cracking off. But when I put my fresh lines in, they blead themselves, no probs
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14-06-2014, 07:28 PM
(This post was last modified: 14-06-2014, 07:28 PM by mcglynn.)
Must be a different system then, my bad.
I know if I ran it dry it was a ballache to start it. Thinking air might be getting in at your bulb or the likes then maybe?
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They will tend to bleed themselves, but it's usually a case that you left the bleed lines off, the pump emptied back to the tank, you didn't prime for long enough, tried to start, wasn't enough fuel in pump, aired it up and now you're in this situation...
IDI tends to bleed itself, DI engines tend not to, hence the rover was probably an L series and wouldn't have liked it... Usually your battery isn't good enough, only brand new healthy batteries will start a totally dry injection system...
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
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Thatl be why, ive got it mixed up as being IDI when its DI.
Cheers for the clarification. Yeah it was a bitch to start after injectors changes & if it ran dry.
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14-06-2014, 07:44 PM
(This post was last modified: 14-06-2014, 07:45 PM by jack_o.)
I have a clear tube running from the filter to the pump, there is occasionally a bubble in there but on the last attempt there wasn't. I will try removing the injector pipes if it doesn't start on the first couple of cranks, that would mean taking the intercooler of again mind.
The end cap is in place.
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Just get the 17mm spanner in there, and loosen a little the nut ontop of each injector. No need to remove intercooler.
Although it is easier. Lesson learnt mate...always get it running before putting intercooler on!
Let us know how you get on
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piggy, lol there is no such thing as easy with an XUD haha
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Still a no go today, didn't start on the first go so undid one of the 17mm bolts on the fuel inlet on an injector. Fuel came out when it was turned over again so the pump is definitely clear of air (i think, only did one), did it up again and still no luck. I've taken the Haynes manual advice and let the glow plug light go out for a few seconds before trying as it carries on sending power to them for a bit. Even tried rolling it down the road a bit and bump starting but there wasn't much space so probably didn't have enough speed.
Not sure what to try next, got the battery charging again : /
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You'll need to do it to all of them as said...
No point in bleeding just the one, especially if you've seemingly got a relatively weak battery...
Is it puffing smoke when attempting to start?
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
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Wasn't paying much attention to the exhaust, I'll check next time after bleeding all of the injectors.
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Ayy got started after bleeding two more injectors Cheers
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