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HDi Re-map Advice & Reviews
#31
(12-03-2014, 02:10 PM)Mr Whippy Wrote: I really need to finish my website Big Grin

Do James or Steve offer discounts on upgrades from stage 1 to stage 2 if they had the stage 1 remap done by them?

Dave

You do, clicked on the link Sad
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#32
What's the most mileage someone has had with a stage 2 map?
Bye Bye D-Turbo
Phase 1 GTi-6 now has a new owner
Rolling in the: Phase 3 HDI Wagon

The current estate project: http://306oc.co.uk/forum/thread-22237.html
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#33
What ever you do don't go to Longlife for a remap for the love of god lmfao yes I made that mistake on my old hdi and the results even after taking it back to get redone is shocking and then had pro Steve do me one and the difference was so much better Smile

I now have another hdi and have the same map going on this with the car standard and will be getting it dyno'd run within the week after it's done
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#34
Not to mention they charged you more than double what any of the forum tuners ask. What was the result of the first one, 92bhp? Rofl
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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#35
Yep over double the price and only 92bhp made then second one maybe 96 pushing lol was biggest mistake
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#36
(12-03-2014, 11:17 PM)Jtrigga Wrote: What's the most mileage someone has had with a stage 2 map?

Mines done over 30k+ and *touches wood* no issues yet
[Image: Ty8kl7b.jpg]
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#37
(14-03-2014, 03:21 PM)Midnightclub Wrote:
(12-03-2014, 11:17 PM)Jtrigga Wrote: What's the most mileage someone has had with a stage 2 map?

Mines done over 30k+ and *touches wood* no issues yet

That's promising to know, what clutch are you using?
Bye Bye D-Turbo
Phase 1 GTi-6 now has a new owner
Rolling in the: Phase 3 HDI Wagon

The current estate project: http://306oc.co.uk/forum/thread-22237.html
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#38
Ive done about 5 or 6 k on stage 2, not that thats a great deal tbf, but I cant see stage 2 making the engines last anyway less if they are still serviced etc.
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#39
(14-03-2014, 03:27 PM)Jtrigga Wrote: That's promising to know, what clutch are you using?

A genuine stock valeo, it was fitted 'new' about a month before I went stage 2, started out on a stage 1 for about 1000 miles, then limited torque stage 2 for another few thousand miles and then full fat stage 2 ever since then.. so it didn't have the big jump from 167 lb/ft to 280 lb/ft like most people who go stage 2 on a stock clutch
[Image: Ty8kl7b.jpg]
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#40
I remember looking at that one Mike, the long life remap was shocking, I wonder where they even got it from??
HDI Tuning Ltd
www.hdi-tuning.co.uk
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#41
Teh interwebz, pirate bay yo!
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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#42
http://www.topgear-tuning.com/

Thats who do longlifes remaps.
[Image: sig002_zpscb892e18.jpg]
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#43
(14-03-2014, 03:39 PM)Midnightclub Wrote:
(14-03-2014, 03:27 PM)Jtrigga Wrote: That's promising to know, what clutch are you using?

A genuine stock valeo, it was fitted 'new' about a month before I went stage 2, started out on a stage 1 for about 1000 miles, then limited torque stage 2 for another few thousand miles and then full fat stage 2 ever since then.. so it didn't have the big jump from 167 lb/ft to 280 lb/ft like most people who go stage 2 on a stock clutch

Thanks I'm going to go for the Sachs Berlingo clutch apparently they are good for 280 lb/ft
Bye Bye D-Turbo
Phase 1 GTi-6 now has a new owner
Rolling in the: Phase 3 HDI Wagon

The current estate project: http://306oc.co.uk/forum/thread-22237.html
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#44
What clutch is recommended for stage 2, long way off for me but as an idea??
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#45
The more popular option is to go for a paddle clutch - Sachs, Helix or CG. CG are much cheaper, but have a reliability record to match the price. Confused

Others have also tried the sachs berlingo clutch, which supposedly has an uprated pressure plate, dual friction clutches and even stock valeos can do the job if treated gently. The only ones i'd suggest avoiding is things like the panther organic clutch on ebay, anything that cheap is cheap for a reason, iirc someone tried one and it didn't even hold their stage 1 reliably.
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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#46
I think the cheap ebay one failed the first day they used it. But theres enough threads about clutches, have a browse through the threads and you should find all the info you need.
[Image: sig002_zpscb892e18.jpg]
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#47
(14-03-2014, 06:04 PM)PE02KHG Wrote: http://www.topgear-tuning.com/

Thats who do longlifes remaps.

I've seen their website before, it looks nice and fancy but obviously in the world of tuning a good website doesn't mean good remaps.
HDI Tuning Ltd
www.hdi-tuning.co.uk
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#48
I would personally recommend a jp map with my stage 2 map seeing 174.9 bhp and 301 ft'lb torque so smooth easy to drive and give it shit for over 4months now cant fault it at all
Official Team Go-NAD fan club
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#49
(19-03-2014, 04:59 PM)the milkman Wrote: I would personally recommend a jp map with my stage 2 map seeing 174.9 bhp and 301 ft'lb torque so smooth easy to drive and give it shit for over 4months now cant fault it at all

Can't rage with those figures! I wonder if two completely new hdi engines would produce exactly the same power on a rolling road?

In theory they would but I doubt it!
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#50
Very unlikely two would make exactly the same power....
JP
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#51
Two brand new engines with the same mileage would make the same figure give or take the tolerance of the dyno, temperature deviations,tyre pressure etc etc, but the basic figure should be very close, manufacturing tolerances wouldn't give a lot of room for the engines to be different, I would expect within less than +/- 0.5 BHP of each other if the dyno was decent. I doubt they would give dead on 90BHP straight out the factory, that's just a rounded figure they sell the car with.

For jet engines we apply a magnitude of corrections when measuring thrust upon a test bed, we then test other test beds with a 'control' engine to check the performance of the cell and that the result is the same. The result is actually the figure after all corrections as you're never going to have the exact temperature that your control baseline runs from (usually 15C 288K). I think dynos make some form of correction relative to temperature but I'm not 100% on that....?
HDI Tuning Ltd
www.hdi-tuning.co.uk
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#52
(21-03-2014, 05:56 PM)pro_steve Wrote: Two brand new engines with the same mileage would make the same figure give or take the tolerance of the dyno, temperature deviations,tyre pressure etc etc, but the basic figure should be very close, manufacturing tolerances wouldn't give a lot of room for the engines to be different, I would expect within less than +/- 0.5 BHP of each other if the dyno was decent. I doubt they would give dead on 90BHP straight out the factory, that's just a rounded figure they sell the car with.

For jet engines we apply a magnitude of corrections when measuring thrust upon a test bed, we then test other test beds with a 'control' engine to check the performance of the cell and that the result is the same. The result is actually the figure after all corrections as you're never going to have the exact temperature that your control baseline runs from (usually 15C 288K). I think dynos make some form of correction relative to temperature but I'm not 100% on that....?

Nice explanation right there!! Thanks
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#53
Yes, dyno's correct based on the temperature in the dyno cell.
JP
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#54
Thought so, it's probably as simple as multipling the measured torque by SQRT(Temp actual/288) so if the temperature is above the baseline value (Most likely 288K or 293K) BHP measured will be increased slightly and if below it will be reduced slightly to give a representative value.

I've just thought of a problem with this system that's not easily correctable, and that's the fact that the temperature correction isn't being applied to the air entering your engine, just the temperature of the cell. If they connect through the OBD they can measure the temperature at your air flow meter but then the air has already been heated up in the engine bay.

I just looked at my latest dyno plot and it had ambient temperature at 11.4 degrees C, no way was it that cold in there so it would be interesting to know where the temperature probe is mounted, probably in the door way...
HDI Tuning Ltd
www.hdi-tuning.co.uk
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#55
I actually think they use adiabatic temperature equations to work it out.

The probe is normally on a wire which is supposed to be put right next to your air feed.

JP
JP
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#56
What's a stage one price whippy?
Using Tapatalk
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#57
Anyone one what's the best equipment for uploading stage 1 software?
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#58
I would always say use MPPS. For me, it's the best out there.

People have had some success with KWP2000, and I know a lot of people use Galletto - but I guess it's personal preference.

JP
JP
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#59
I can't reply to your pm chap about stage 1, but ild like to buy please, also where can I find mpps?
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#60
eBay is probably your best bet mate - they are pretty cheap on there and do what they need to.

If you are struggling to get in touch, try my mobile - it's 077 six nine,16five one tree ate.

Sorry for the odd spelling, but I know spam bots often pick up mobiles to spam to. You should be able to get it from that though.

JP
JP
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