Project- 306 2.0 8v Turbo

[Grant]

I love this project.

Great progress, as always.

[PUGNUT_XS]

Couple more pics, got the front and rear crank oil seals in.

Have hit a brick wall now though as when i took the pistons to get machined, we measured how much had to come off and it was a show stopper, so back to the drawing board. Looked at using a decompression plate with standard pistons, great, then i got a price for a new set of piston rings and at over £300 for a set that kind of blew me out the water.

Best option now is to save up as for £500 i can get a set of wassner low comp pistons that come with pins and rings.

[attachment=13303]

[attachment=13304][/align]

[PUGNUT_XS]

Fitted the 6 speed reverse cable, gear lever and lifter today

[attachment=13358]

[attachment=13359]

[attachment=13360]

[attachment=13361]

---

Sanded down the rear bumper and re shaped the exhaust outlet so the new system will fit well. Still have to fill a couple of marks on it. Side skirts came off too, there was only a small amount of corrosion where the underseal had cracked on the rhf due to the car being jacked up on the seal.

Work will stop now till April when the boss man goes on holiday, the back axle will come off then for a refurb.

[attachment=13362]

[attachment=13363]

[attachment=13364]

[PUGNUT_XS]

Relocated the battery to the boot, using the battery tray mount from the engine bay. Cut the ECU box off of the battery box and then mounted the battery box in the boot, earth connections run out to the chassis, all i need to do now is make up a live line to go to the engine bay, get a battery box cover and rig up a battery breather so i dont gas myself.

[attachment=13819]

[attachment=13820]

[attachment=13821]

[JethroJay]

You're better off using the XU engines - they're slanted for one, if you stick a SR20 in, you're going to f*ck the handling...

The XU 16vs are better flowing engines than the SR20 as standard, forged up they're equally as strong - remember they used the XU10 staying relatively standard in Rallycross producing 500+hp with restrictor rings... And 300hp+ Naturally Aspirated in Group A...

How the hell can you get 300BHP+ from a Naturally Aspirated XU engine? I wanna know, sounds AWESOME and then Turbo them you can get it to 500BHP+ with restrictor rings? SWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET, tell me how, I wanna know

[306Dan]

i was reading on 306gti6 that c20let rings are the same as xu rings

---

found it 1/3rd of the way down

http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread....702&page=1

[Niall]

A set of piston rings for £300!?

There is a guy with a 205 with a 6 lump in. That is NA and 287bhp. Cost him a fortune i think but was cams, ITBs a 2.1 conversion and shit loads of breathing work.

[PUGNUT_XS]

i was reading on 306gti6 that c20let rings are the same as xu rings

---

found it 1/3rd of the way down

http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread....702&page=1

Interesting, wonder if that is a definate?. Wonder if the pistons would fit too.

---

A set of piston rings for £300!?

There is a guy with a 205 with a 6 lump in. That is NA and 287bhp. Cost him a fortune i think but was cams, ITBs a 2.1 conversion and shit loads of breathing work.

That was a quote from Euro Car Parts, that really ruined my day, i was planning to fit new rings and use a decomp plate.

Peugeot came in at £200, but made a valid point that with a turbo the rings may not be up to taking the boost.

Another option would be to sell both my engines and buy a 106 GTI 1.6 16v engine and turbo that, as that is prooved it can go 300+ BHP on stock internals and a de-comp plate

[Niall]

What sort of oower and boost you aiming for? The stock pistons/rings will happily take 250-300bhp. Anything over 300 hasn't really been tested as far as I'm aware.
Also, your biggest mistake ther is using Ecp. For engine parts like that, find a local engine builder who can get these bits. I paid £100 for mine fitted

[Midnightclub]

DP have a turbo'd S16 project car (Ok, not identical but still an XU10) which has been at nearly 330hp for some time.. that's only got a de-comp plate.

That said, that GT30 turbo guy had his spin a bearing at 350hp.. luck of the draw maybe?

[PUGNUT_XS]

With the K6 ECU i have 3 settings, i want 7psi for everyday use, 15psi for a bit of fun then a balls out 30psi to upset the corsa vxr drivers.

[Midnightclub]

What blower are you planning on using then?

[JethroJay]

What blower are you planning on using then?

My mum's mouth cause all that does is whine all day!!


in reply to the Corsa VXR thing, I've been in one and there, well yeah, weak, sh*t, slow, look like my arse crack on a bad day, so yeah, 306's are FAAAAAAAAAR better looking!

[PUGNUT_XS]

What blower are you planning on using then?

My mum's mouth cause all that does is whine all day!!


in reply to the Corsa VXR thing, I've been in one and there, well yeah, weak, sh*t, slow, look like my arse crack on a bad day, so yeah, 306's are FAAAAAAAAAR better looking!

LOL.

I think the 306 can still cut it with modern designs, all this modern crap does not have any character, bit like the government

---

Turbo wise i would like to use a T3, so that i can limit the amount of Lag, i love the DP Stuff but the £1800 asking price is a bit out of my price range, i have a chap who will fabricate a manifold and down pipe for a fraction of the cost, either that or save up with my pocket money from the long haired general.

[PUGNUT_XS]

Ok, this piston ring issue has been really gripping my S**t so i called ECP back just to confirm the price they quoted.

Turns out the guy who did the first quote cocked it up. The price is £74+VAT for the entire set for x4 pistons and not £74+vat for each cylinder

On that note, they arrive monday

Back on with the re-build, Happy Days

[PUGNUT_XS]

Hi All

Piston ring dramas are still on going so i have decided to cut my loses and save up for the wassner low comp jobbies.

In the mean time i am doing bits and bobs that cost nothing using the materials i have in my workshop.

Took the R/H front hub off, and cleaned it all up.

[attachment=14912]
[attachment=14913]

A question for all. Is it easier to lower the back axle ride hight with the axle removed, as it has to come off anyway so i can paint the underneath.

[Grant]

I find it easier on the car, but there are no right or wrong ways. I like to be able to jack the trailing arm up to the desired position before putting it back in place.

Alternatively you could make some dummy shocks out of wood to attain the right distance

[PUGNUT_XS]

I find it easier on the car, but there are no right or wrong ways. I like to be able to jack the trailing arm up to the desired position before putting it back in place.

Alternatively you could make some dummy shocks out of wood to attain the right distance

The dummy shock route is the way i am going

[PUGNUT_XS]

This week I took the axle off, came off well apart from yet again the sodding brake lines, the osr line was badly corroded just before the flexi and snapped without any effort (Not that I make an effort to snap brake lines).

[attachment=15156]

[attachment=15158]

With the axle off I set about painting the rest of the back underside of the car and up inside the wheel arch liners.

[attachment=15161]

All the axle bushes are in good condition so no need to replace them at the mo, it turns out the axle has been dropped by 20mm already so I decided to leave it as it is. Removed all the rear brakes and gave it a steam clean.

Managed to salvage the rear callipers, thanks to my trusty tap and die set, cleaned up the sliders and wire wheeled the pad carriers, painted them black to match the brembos that are going on the front, fitted the braided rear brake hoses that I got from swampy and to be fair they are a very good fit. Just waiting for a brake line set to come from e-bay. £12 for 25meters of copper brake pipe and fittings including postage.

[attachment=15162]

[attachment=15164]

[attachment=15166]

[attachment=15165]


Fitted the 20mm Hubcentric spacers and after putting the wheels back on it fills the arches nicely, if I had lowered it the wheels would rub.

[attachment=15167]

[attachment=15168]

More to follow once pay day comes

[PUGNUT_XS]

Hi all

After loads of thought i went back to the drawing board, my budget cannot stretch to the 5k mark to build the turbo gti-6.

I have decided to go with my original plan of the 8v 2.0 Turbo. I am keeping hold of the 6 engine for the time being and have picked up a genuine 2.0 8v Turbo with 52K on the clock from a 1998 Citroen Xantia Activa, I know many of you are puking what a crap engine blar blar blar, it is now in my budget to get the car finished. So far i have fitted the GTI-6 flywheel clutch and gearbox, changed the timing belt and water pump.

I have removed part of the box section on the bulk head to allow room for the Turbo, i plan to plate up and strengthen the box section once i have test fitted the engine.

Must say a massive thank you to PUG1OFF as i have bugged them many times for tech advice and they are most helpful. Shame the same cant be said for Peugeot Ecosse

[attachment=16788]

[attachment=16789]

[attachment=16790]

[attachment=16791]

[attachment=16792]

[PUGNUT_XS]

[attachment=16833]
[attachment=16834]
[attachment=16835]
[attachment=16836]
[attachment=16837]

[Piggy]

Please say you are going to reinforce the bulkhead??

Whats the reasoning behind the turbo 2.0 8v? I assume some remapping will be there, as its less powerful than the '6 lump?

I think you will find those 20mm spacers a bit much without rolling arches, Puglove has found that out, even with 15mms. I am OEM +10mm and had to roll the rears and need to do the fronts asap

[Niall]

If it were me I'd be attempting to plate up the ends of that box section and double skin it. Considering that's quite an important structural part right above your feet, I'd be trying to retain it as much as possible!

[306Dan]

He is Niall it's in a previous post, "I have removed part of the box section on the bulk head to allow room for the Turbo, i plan to plate up and strengthen the box section once i have test fitted the engine."

[Grant]

I was thinking about this project the other day as it had gone rather quiet.

Fair play for making the decision mate. I am sure it will be great, as you seem to have a superhuman attention to detail.

Hurry up and get more updates in! :p

[PUGNUT_XS]

I have made end caps to cover the area that i have cut away that are 3mil thick and fit inside the box section, i am also going to seam weld across the top an bottom, plus fit a strut brace.

The reason for the change is to properly turbo a six lump i am looking at around the 5k mark and thats doing it myself.

The engine i have got now is a turbo engine from factory, and the other good thing i got the engine off a friend who has even worse car OCD than me so i know that it is a good unit plus it has only covered 52,000 from now and has been serviced religiously, it has also been treated to a full port and polish, re-mapped and set up with and adjustable boost gauge, last time it was on the Dyno it hit 204 BHP, so i am more than happy with that, it felt fast in the xantia, so in a 306 with the be3 gear box it should be good fun.

It also makes it unique.

I will post more pics once i have welded it.

[PUGNUT_XS]

I was thinking about this project the other day as it had gone rather quiet.

Fair play for making the decision mate. I am sure it will be great, as you seem to have a superhuman attention to detail.

Hurry up and get more updates in! :p

As Requested, been up since 4am, but the welding is done, primed and sprayed, gave the servo a coat too.

Engine might go back in today depending if the bossman goes out lol

[attachment=16855]

[attachment=16856]

[attachment=16857]

[attachment=16858]

[attachment=16859]

[attachment=16860]

---

[attachment=16861]

[Grant]

Awesome work. Whats left to do now before you can drop the engine in?

[PUGNUT_XS]

Awesome work. Whats left to do now before you can drop the engine in?

Funny you should say that lol

[attachment=16866]
[attachment=16867]
[attachment=16868]

Still got a few clearence issues at the mo but as Pug1Off advised i have 17mil to play with on the bottom mount, its clear of the bulkhead but there still is not enough clearence for my liking, i will have to put a vent in the bonnet also to help air flow down the back of the engine, i was thinking a subaru bonnet vent between the washer jets shoul do the trick too.

[Grant]

you don't hang about.

How about some louvres facing the windscreen to draw the hot air out? Would be more subtle than a scooby vent or similar