Rear Beam Swap - North Herts

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Rear Beam Swap - North Herts
#31
For the ones under the boot floor you want to mole grip the male end then get a normal 16/17mm spanner on the female end and turn that one.
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#32
Whats going on here, you dont need to open the hydraulics to change a hdi beam.. just take all the junk off the old beam destructively.
Night Blue VW Golf 7 GTD : Bianca 306 Rallye : Mini Cooper D (The Mrs')
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HDi Owner for 200k/9 years
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#33
Anyone done a guide on refurbishing rear beam as I plan on refurbish the gti6 beam ready for my hdi
#2 Moonstone Blue HDI
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#34
http://306oc.co.uk/forum/thread-8782.html

You will need access to a bf press to get the stubs out the arm.
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#35
(14-02-2014, 04:37 PM)C2K Wrote: Whats going on here, you dont need to open the hydraulics to change a hdi beam.. just take all the junk off the old beam destructively.

How do you mean? The brake pipes on my replacement beam are fubar, so I'm gonna have to hope the ones on the car are ok, right? Been spraying the new beam and the car with penetrating oil to give it my best chances!
Disclaimer: The above is not to be taken to heart and is probably a joke, grow up you big girl.
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#36
(15-02-2014, 10:20 AM)C.A.R. Wrote:
(14-02-2014, 04:37 PM)C2K Wrote: Whats going on here, you dont need to open the hydraulics to change a hdi beam.. just take all the junk off the old beam destructively.

How do you mean? The brake pipes on my replacement beam are fubar, so I'm gonna have to hope the ones on the car are ok, right? Been spraying the new beam and the car with penetrating oil to give it my best chances!

it's cheap enough to get those brake pipes made up mate, my local motor factors charged like 7 quid each last time he did some for me . .Smile
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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#37
Rear beam now almost fully stripped, but having a 'mare with the ABS sensors. What's he best way to get them out? I've removed the bolt already, but the sensors won't budge. Part of me says to just leave them on there and plug them in when I swap the beam onto the car - but one of them has snapped where the cable starts anyway so I'm not sure that will even work! Looking at it they just seem to be wedged through a hole? Can't tap them out from the other side as I've got no leverage.

Concerned even more that the ones on the car currently might be similarly stuck!
Disclaimer: The above is not to be taken to heart and is probably a joke, grow up you big girl.
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#38
Theoretically they do just push in/pull out once the bolt is out Chris. But due to their location they almost always sieze in solid, and theres not really a way to get them out without breaking them. Don't think new replacements are overly expensive though.
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#39
Aren't replacements like £50-60 each?.....
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#40
Hmm, don't think so, I'll check though!

Edit - It seems you're right, though there are some around £35 on ebay. Confused I'm sure they were only about £25 each when I last looked! I tend to just leave them in the replacement hubs though to save the hassle.
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#41
Is there a simple continuity check I can perform on the one with the damaged casing just to check it works then?

Slapped a load of hammerite on the bastard tonight and it looks much better lol. Scrubbed it to death with the wire brush and some sandpaper first, the kitchen floor is not looking good...
Disclaimer: The above is not to be taken to heart and is probably a joke, grow up you big girl.
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#42
The kitchen floor..........


You brave, brave man.
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#43
(15-02-2014, 10:49 PM)C.A.R. Wrote: Is there a simple continuity check I can perform on the one with the damaged casing just to check it works then?

You could check the resistance of the sensor across the pins I guess. Not sure what it should be though, would need someone with autodata to check that.
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#44
Check it against the one on the other side.
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