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Hi guys,
So I've has to pull over and call the RAC as the car is revving it's balls off. It sounds like it's going to run away.
They will most likely get here and scratch their heads when I ask them to turn down the fuel, so
Can someone please advise what needs to be done by them? What needs to be turned and where?
Thanks!! Xxx
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Max fuel screw is the one on the right hand side of the pump and has a 13mm lock nut. But I'd look elsewhere first, is the throttle arm jammed or something? Check idle screws too.
Welding and fabrication projects undertaken, contact me for more information.
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Stolen from Dan!s guide.
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09-10-2013, 08:18 AM
(This post was last modified: 09-10-2013, 08:19 AM by MissTap_GTI6.)
(09-10-2013, 08:13 AM)Jonny81191 Wrote: Max fuel screw is the one on the right hand side of the pump and has a 13mm lock nut. But I'd look elsewhere first, is the throttle arm jammed or something? Check idle screws too.
Thanks Jonny.
The cars fuelling has been playing up recently. It's been behaving itself most of the time but occasionally it revs higher than usual.
Today though it's revving really really high, Id say about 4k, possibly higher.
Throttle arm is fine. And the idle screw is ok...
(09-10-2013, 08:18 AM)mr_fish Wrote: Stolen from Dan!s guide.
Perfect, thank you!
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could be running away . . . . .:o
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Do you know how much its been turned up?
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The RAC man noticed that the max fuel screw nut was loose... Not sure how that happened as it was done up.
He thinks that's the reason why it's been erratic.
He gave it a quick tune and it seems ok, the engine was warm so I'll have to see how it starts tonight; it's extremely different hot and cold...
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If its very hard to start hot and cold the rac man has wound it in too much so wind it out a bit more just make sure you properly lock off the lock nut this time.
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(09-10-2013, 10:06 AM)Dum-Dum Wrote: If its very hard to start hot and cold the rac man has wound it in too much so wind it out a bit more just make sure you properly lock off the lock nut this time.
I've got a feeling he probably might've wound it in a bit too much as it was idling 'low' when he had done it.
The issue I have is that I don't have any tools on me, hence why I called the RAC in the first place
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(09-10-2013, 10:06 AM)Dum-Dum Wrote: If its very hard to start hot and cold the rac man has wound it in too much so wind it out a bit more just make sure you properly lock off the lock nut this time.
Chris means wound it out too much . . . .and if it is hard to start you should wind it IN . .
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(09-10-2013, 10:58 AM)Mattcheese31 Wrote: (09-10-2013, 10:06 AM)Dum-Dum Wrote: If its very hard to start hot and cold the rac man has wound it in too much so wind it out a bit more just make sure you properly lock off the lock nut this time.
Chris means wound it out too much . . . .and if it is hard to start you should wind it IN . .
Yeah, either in or out; I don't have the tools!
Would I be able to start it and let it warm up then it'll be ok do you think??
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(09-10-2013, 11:00 AM)MissTap_GTI6 Wrote: (09-10-2013, 10:58 AM)Mattcheese31 Wrote: (09-10-2013, 10:06 AM)Dum-Dum Wrote: If its very hard to start hot and cold the rac man has wound it in too much so wind it out a bit more just make sure you properly lock off the lock nut this time.
Chris means wound it out too much . . . .and if it is hard to start you should wind it IN . .
Yeah, either in or out; I don't have the tools!
Would I be able to start it and let it warm up then it'll be ok do you think??
Can't you move the pivot arm to the hot/cold side anyway? /iknownothingaboutbosch
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Fuel must be turned up alot to be having issues like that.
Doesnt even own a 306.
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(09-10-2013, 11:00 AM)MissTap_GTI6 Wrote: (09-10-2013, 10:58 AM)Mattcheese31 Wrote: (09-10-2013, 10:06 AM)Dum-Dum Wrote: If its very hard to start hot and cold the rac man has wound it in too much so wind it out a bit more just make sure you properly lock off the lock nut this time.
Chris means wound it out too much . . . .and if it is hard to start you should wind it IN . .
Yeah, either in or out; I don't have the tools!
i have something that i think could help with that . . .
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Ok, lets shed some REAL light onto this... It's an issue which has been around for a week or so and genuinely puzzles me, never known anything like this.
Some symptoms;
- High idle, gradually increases over 30minutes or so after being on long drives and warming up
- Idle reduces back down after the engine/car cools down
Since the above, i noticed the previous owner of the pump had removed all idle control (ie hot/cold idle screws) so i added an idle screw, and turned the throttle arm down to it's lowest position (so the idle is controlled via the lever arm, rather than the throttle arm)
This then helped for a short time and thought we had seen the end of the high idle until today. Not entirely sure what the RAC man has done except turn the fuel down? But now is significantly down on power and is generally dangerous as it's difficult to merge traffic and roads.
I don't think, actually, almost certain the engine isn't "running away" otherwise it would be a regular occurance and wouldn't persist a gradual idle, moreover, an instant increase and eratic "offyourhead" idle..
Any other ideas as to what it could be
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is the stat cable still connected to the pump? Would of said its to do with the idle pivot on the back of the pump.
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Is it running veg? I find on veg it starts lumpy and then as it warms up it goes to a high idle and has more low down power so it will pull itself along in 3rd, when on diesel it would just stall.
The only time I have experienced these types of symptoms is when I turned the fuel up as high as it would go, the revs would start to "hang" so to speak which resulted in it staying at certain revs for a second or so before setting again.
You do realise the max fuel screw doesn't go all the way in? When it is what looks like half way it is actually all the way if you see what I mean? I only say this because I used to think it would go right in but the leverset doesn't even move that far
As an aside, I didn't know RAC do IDI DERV tuning now Must be a new thing, maybe next time I need a tune I'll call them out
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Sorry got my ins and outs wrong.
Anyway I've gotta say it just sounds badly tuned pump. Out of interest when was the last time the filter was changed?
If you want me to have a look at it and tune it properly feel free to pop up.
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(09-10-2013, 03:37 PM)mr_fish Wrote: is the stat cable still connected to the pump? Would of said its to do with the idle pivot on the back of the pump.
this^^^^^^^^^^^^ . .
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(09-10-2013, 03:54 PM)Dum-Dum Wrote: Sorry got my ins and outs wrong.
Anyway I've gotta say it just sounds badly tuned pump. Out of interest when was the last time the filter was changed?
If you want me to have a look at it and tune it properly feel free to pop up.
Good call Chris, when my fuel filter was blocked it made the engine do some weird things that had me check the timing umpteen times and source a new fuel pump before taking it to KrisB just to get the fuel filter changed!
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(09-10-2013, 03:37 PM)mr_fish Wrote: is the stat cable still connected to the pump? Would of said its to do with the idle pivot on the back of the pump.
This was my next POA.
I told Eli I was to fit one, but never had one connected before.
Unsure of how they wire up, but I'll try get to the scrappy this weekend and nab one
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Don't suppose it could be an air leak? Would explain why its worse when hot.
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As in fuel/air leak?
The 205 is in the same boat (well was) had a pretty narley air ingress, started rough but never shot a high idle..
I'll bleed the system again at weekend
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narr like you say, air wouldn't make it idle high, sounds like the idle control has been set up very wrong, ie back to front lol
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Fair enough, im just going on what I was told by all the.xud boys when I had a similar problem. Fixing the air leak definitely solved it tbf.
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(10-10-2013, 06:24 AM)Mattcheese31 Wrote: narr like you say, air wouldn't make it idle high, sounds like the idle control has been set up very wrong, ie back to front lol
Would say this. ^^
I wouldn't of said you'd need to fit a cold start cable. I haven't got one on the 206 and it starts fine. Just give the pump a tweak of fuel and she'll be reet.
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(09-10-2013, 03:54 PM)Dum-Dum Wrote: Sorry got my ins and outs wrong.
And this is where Dum discovered he likes chicks with dicks.
Eli, I'll move this to the correct section. Get it wrong once more and I ban ginger for life from here.
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(10-10-2013, 10:16 AM)Niall Wrote: (09-10-2013, 03:54 PM)Dum-Dum Wrote: Sorry got my ins and outs wrong.
And this is where Dum discovered he likes chicks with dicks.
Eli, I'll move this to the correct section. Get it wrong once more and I ban ginger for life from here. Woah, what's this got to do with me?
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(10-10-2013, 10:19 AM)Scott Wrote: (10-10-2013, 10:16 AM)Niall Wrote: (09-10-2013, 03:54 PM)Dum-Dum Wrote: Sorry got my ins and outs wrong.
And this is where Dum discovered he likes chicks with dicks.
Eli, I'll move this to the correct section. Get it wrong once more and I ban ginger for life from here. Woah, what's this got to do with me?
Tarnished with the same copper brush!!
Look Niall, I was in a state of panic yesterday and really CBA to work tapafail to my needs.
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If someone's removed the anti stall spring (or released it right back) then it's much easier to run the pump close to its limits of max fuel, and if your engines cold then it's probably pulling charge from the alternator stopping it running away slightly, so as you let off above 3k or so when it's warm it may not have enough gov control to bring it back down, just my shed of light I've had this happen to me.
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