22-02-2013, 01:11 PM (This post was last modified: 28-02-2013, 09:44 PM by Poodle.)
Been meaning to start a thread like this for a while, thinking it'll be useful for reference. I want us to compile a basic list of information on turbos to make it easier to spec one suitable for the intended application. Between us we should be able to create a brief guide to explain the various aspects of turbo specs - a/r, trim, housing, compressor inducer and exducer, etc - and a decent list of different turbos with their relevant figures.
What I need from you guys is information on the turbos you have lying around, please post as replies to this thread. Give as many details as you can about the specs, what car it comes from and its intended application.
If you’ve got anything else you’re willing to contribute I’d appreciate it if you could get in contact, cheers!
USEFUL LINKS
Most of the information I’ve found can be summarised in these links. Bear in mind a lot of the information is tailored to petrol engines, I am trying to find relevant figures for diesel engines to make it more applicable.
I believe a good figure for AFR is 18:1, BSFC is 0.35 and for VE is 88%
Garrett GT2056S CHRA number 714652 (ext 5005, 5006)
Fitted to the 2.5DCi Vauxhall Movano/Vivaro, Renault Trafic/Master engine code G9U730 125bhp model
Circa 2004-2006, be careful as some were fitted with K03's and/or Mitsubishi branded turbos
Newer vans moved to a GT17
Quote:The Garrett GT2056 turbocharger is the biggest turbo in the GT20 family. With a 55 Trim compressor this turbo will give you 260 HP. Recommended for engines in the range 1400cc - 2000cc this is the turbo you can find under the bonet of many different cars. Also this is a popular turbo to turbocharge motorcycles with. Will work well for anyone looking for 140 - 260 HP and have good spoolup also.
Model: 751578-2
CHRA: 433289-234
Bearing: Journal
Cooling: Oil
Compressor
Inducer: 41.5 mm
Exducer: 56.0 mm
Trim: 55
A/R 0.53
Turbine
Wheel: 47.0 mm
Trim: 72
A/R: 0.46
Wastegated
Realistically on a 9mm pumped 1.9 XUD you're looking at reliably up to 170bhp at 26psi.
Consider this option if you want fast spool combined with respectable power, without the added issue of controlling VNT's. Suited to less-gov shimmed engines than a TD04 as the power band is much lower, wouldn't recommend revving to 6krpm.
Currently running 24psi on the estate, 20psi by 2250rpm, peak boost at 2750rpm. Cruising speeds 4psi at 60mph, 7psi at 70mph.
DO NOT overspeed or dewastegate these as they have a habit of snapping shafts, my last one went at about 34psi. Keep it sensible, it's more fragile than the seemingly bombproof T25 and TD04, however spools FAR quicker.
22-02-2013, 02:31 PM (This post was last modified: 22-02-2013, 02:40 PM by cwspellowe.)
Garrett GT2056S, don't go over 30psi
More seriously though..
Garrett GT2056S CHRA number 714652 (ext 5005, 5006)
Fitted to the 2.5DCi Vauxhall Movano/Vivaro, Renault Trafic/Master engine code G9U730 125bhp model
Circa 2004-2006, be careful as some were fitted with K03's and/or Mitsubishi branded turbos
Newer vans moved to a GT17
Quote:The Garrett GT2056 turbocharger is the biggest turbo in the GT20 family. With a 55 Trim compressor this turbo will give you 260 HP. Recommended for engines in the range 1400cc - 2000cc this is the turbo you can find under the bonet of many different cars. Also this is a popular turbo to turbocharge motorcycles with. Will work well for anyone looking for 140 - 260 HP and have good spoolup also.
Model: 751578-2
CHRA: 433289-234
Bearing: Journal
Cooling: Oil
Compressor
Inducer: 41.5 mm
Exducer: 56.0 mm
Trim: 55
A/R 0.53
Turbine
Wheel: 47.0 mm
Trim: 72
A/R: 0.46
Wastegated
Realistically on a 9mm pumped 1.9 XUD you're looking at reliably up to 170bhp at 26psi.
Consider this option if you want fast spool combined with respectable power, without the added issue of controlling VNT's. Suited to less-gov shimmed engines than a TD04 as the power band is much lower, wouldn't recommend revving to 6krpm.
Currently running 24psi on the estate, 20psi by 2250rpm, peak boost at 2750rpm. Cruising speeds 4psi at 60mph, 7psi at 70mph.
DO NOT overspeed or dewastegate these as they have a habit of snapping shafts, my last one went at about 34psi. Keep it sensible, it's more fragile than the seemingly bombproof T25 and TD04, however spools FAR quicker.
Matt, cheers for making this a sticky, although it occurred to me after i'd posted that it'd probably be more use in the guide section... Should think the XUD lads will appreciate the info too.
Ruan, think i may be bothering you on skype at some point, there's some details there i don't understand lol.
(22-02-2013, 02:31 PM)cwspellowe Wrote: DO NOT overspeed or dewastegate these as they have a habit of snapping shafts, my last one went at about 34psi. Keep it sensible, it's more fragile than the seemingly bombproof T25 and TD04, however spools FAR quicker.
It's not so much the fact they're excessively fragile, it's just the fact they're SO efficient, they're able to spin SO fast without just becoming so inefficient they just stop unlike the T2s and TD04s which just run out of efficiency before they tend to break things on 8v Diesels, whereas the GT series are SO much more efficient they'll just destroy themselves.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in.
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
(22-02-2013, 02:31 PM)cwspellowe Wrote: DO NOT overspeed or dewastegate these as they have a habit of snapping shafts, my last one went at about 34psi. Keep it sensible, it's more fragile than the seemingly bombproof T25 and TD04, however spools FAR quicker.
It's not so much the fact they're excessively fragile, it's just the fact they're SO efficient, they're able to spin SO fast without just becoming so inefficient they just stop unlike the T2s and TD04s which just run out of efficiency before they tend to break things on 8v Diesels, whereas the GT series are SO much more efficient they'll just destroy themselves.
Hence fragile. If it didn't self implode I wouldn't consider it fragile
Can i ask how are you getting the gt range to fit on to the manifold/exhaust elbow? are you using adapter plates or welding them on? also what about oil lines and clearance with the bulk head?
The GT2056 clears the bulkhead fine but I smashed it out the way just in case. Oil lines i'm using a braided feed connected to the standard T2 line with an AN fitting, and the return just about fits with a bit of extra rubber hose on the end of it.
The fitting from the vans comes with a triangular manifold flange so just drilled and tapped the manifold to suit. Gasket matched the hotside inlet, and used a 10mm steel plate with 2.5" elbow welded to it for the downpipe.
(23-02-2013, 11:05 AM)cwspellowe Wrote: The GT2056 clears the bulkhead fine but I smashed it out the way just in case. Oil lines i'm using a braided feed connected to the standard T2 line with an AN fitting, and the return just about fits with a bit of extra rubber hose on the end of it.
The fitting from the vans comes with a triangular manifold flange so just drilled and tapped the manifold to suit. Gasket matched the hotside inlet, and used a 10mm steel plate with 2.5" elbow welded to it for the downpipe.
Sounds simple thinking of not bothering with the td04 and going for a better turbo like these
Honestly, they absolutely scream, especially when the wastegate opens <3
Spool so quickly as well, I didn't think the T2 was all that laggy but this thing blows it out of the water. Haven't really tried top end long pulls yet, but it certainly shifts when it wants to
(23-02-2013, 11:45 AM)cwspellowe Wrote: Good luck getting one cheap, that's why I spunked £300 on a refurb, couldn't find a cheap'un anywhere, think I killed them all
yeah! thanks!!!
theres a van scrappy not far from me...just sent an email...may get a bit for my gt1752 though...its done 3000miles from new!
28-02-2013, 08:21 PM (This post was last modified: 28-02-2013, 08:27 PM by Poodle.)
Cheers Chris.
From now on I'll update the first post every week with any additions/more information.
On a related note, can anyone tell me a sensible VE figure to use when calculating cfm for the 8v HDi?
31-05-2013, 11:48 AM (This post was last modified: 31-05-2013, 11:51 AM by mercfan.)
Sorry to pee on your parade here, but that 2056 is rubbish in terms of reliability.
I'm a dismantler and this is one of the most sought after, hence the high prices.
They are very very common to fail in their standard fitment place and just simply don't last.
Here is a tip from the parts trade: Whatever turbo there are plenty available of and cheap to buy (mainstream stuff excluding exotics) is generally a very good turbo from a reliability point of view - simple supply and demand scenario.
Flol, so you see and get asked for so many because they're rare and crap? Ok...
Tbf we do see a fair few at work, but thats because they go on the kind of vehicles that are owned by idiots who dont know how to look after them, volvos, mercs, you know the sort. Regular oil changes? Thats just a conspiracy by garages to rip us off, right?
(31-05-2013, 12:13 PM)Poodle Wrote: Flol, so you see and get asked for so many because they're rare and crap? Ok...
Rare and crap because they go wrong by habit, resulting in a short supply of second hand units. The vans that they are fitted to are plentiful, but the reality is that about 60-70% of them have dead turbo's, compared to perhaps 15-25% on others with better turbos, ie transit 2.4, sprinter/vito, vw, etc. As at present, we only supply direct standard fit replacement units, ie not the tuning market.
Sorry if this causes upset, I was only having good intentions - it is a bit of a downer if you do all the work only to find yourself with a generally unreliable turbo.
Saying all that, it may be that it is not the fault of the turbo at all. At the end of the day, it's oil cooled and it is entirely possible that the "standard" fitment has other isssues, ie engine oil cooling/capacity arrangement, oil lines/feed issues, high egt by design, etc, etc.
So it may well be that in an alternative fitment, with everything matched up to an optimum and lower egt, that it turns out to be perfectly reliable.
That's not so much a turbo characteristic rather than an engine\calibration issue...
GT series turbos from 15-25 frame use vastly the same bearings... Any GT series turbo is unreliable if badly mapped or tuned even from the factory... Look at the BMW GT2256v and GT2360v, all in massively High demand, always going wrong, nothing to do with the turbo... It's more the fact the engine is badly designed and likes to drop chunks of swirl flap into the exhaust... Unsurprisingly writing off the turbo...
If cared for the GT series are reliable, hardy turbos, however they are susceptible to abuse and as such will fail if pushed... They will seem like they love 35psi of boost for 30 seconds and make that pressure, then suddenly shit themselves... All because someone got carried away with the boost controller... A T2 or TD04 will just turn into a hairdryer and become so inefficient they just carry on making the shit performance they always did!!
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in.
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
31-05-2013, 05:45 PM (This post was last modified: 31-05-2013, 05:52 PM by mercfan.)
@Ruan, Couldn't agree more with you - think you're spot on and an excellent observation.
@Poodle: Back in the day doing the midnights (sssh...another country another time) multiple egt gauges were a must. Not mentioning multiple coolant and air temps, oil pressure and temperature (sump, turbo in/out, cooler) If your car broke, you got nicked
Every car and engine is different. What you pick depends on so much - have you done the cam? Lowered the compression? Ceramic coatings? How are you fuelling? Exhaust, cooling capacity, etc, etc, etc. Personally, I don't like Garrett. Think they are a cheap mass production disposable product. I'd rather pay more for something decent that can take abuse. But that's me.
It all doesn't matter so much. What really matters (especially with Garretts) is what happens with your engine and analyzing the figures. EGT at exhaust port and downstream from the turbo are vital to keep an eye on. Same for oil temperature. And when they tend to go out of range (hook up the heaviest trailer you can, pick a long hill and wring it's neck to test), you can make adjustments/alterations to bring things back in line.
Not just for the sake of the turbo, but also the engine itself.
And there is also another major advantage - a cooler turbo makes more power - a LOT more.
I try to learn from the professionals
Sorry, I know different make car, but look at the two oil coolers and massive intercooler. Radiator even bigger, takes up full width of the body in the boot
3L 24V TD making 600bhp, now calculating how much can be gotten out of the new project 306 hdi...
Not wanting to hijack the thread, once I got the pug running right, I'll be taking lots of readings and making little changes one at a time. Will be keeping the standard turbo for the time being, purely as exercise to see what it can make, changing other (simpler/cheaper) things. Naturally, will be sharing my findings here
Hmmm, I'd be inclined to do the same if i had the money to throw at it, but i don't. Every last receipt for my car over the last three years totals less than £2.5K (including purchase price, maintenance and a raft of fuelling, breathing and chassis mods). An extra grand for a decent set of gauges and an analytic unit just isn't available.
These cars are rarely going to be a big money project, as such most people looking for something readily available, affordable, quick spooling and able to flow enough at the top end to match the limit of the stock/near stock fuelling and engine. The GT2056 ticks all those boxes, and as a bonus it pretty much fits in place of the stock turbo.
I'll be very interested to see your project take shape, it's good to see people doing something original with these engines.
![[Image: %24(KGrHqR,!oQF!Ky,SC0jBQT1wvEqU!~~60_12.JPG]](http://i.ebayimg.com/t/VOLVO-S60-V70-S80-XC70-D5-DIESEL-TURBO-PART-2852U-163BHP-MODEL-/00/s/Mzc1WDUwMA==/%24(KGrHqR,!oQF!Ky,SC0jBQT1wvEqU!~~60_12.JPG)
![[Image: Fotos-de-Turbo-volvo-S60-d5-24d-163cv_43...1356468645]](http://images02.olx.pt/ui/22/58/04/Fotos-de-Turbo-volvo-S60-d5-24d-163cv_434545404_1.jpg?x=1356468645)
![[Image: DSCF2471.jpg]](http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m481/martypellowe/DSCF2471.jpg)
![[Image: DSCF2472.jpg]](http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m481/martypellowe/DSCF2472.jpg)
More seriously though..
![[Image: 20A1806D-891D-40FB-BD52-AD519177A607-734...391753.jpg]](http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d196/mattbush/20A1806D-891D-40FB-BD52-AD519177A607-7340-0000058F46391753.jpg)
![[Image: sig.jpg]](http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k220/c_j_m/sig.jpg)
![[Image: signature_zps1a02ba79.jpg]](http://s1128.photobucket.com/user/martypellowe/media/signature_zps1a02ba79.jpg.html)
Should think the XUD lads will appreciate the info too. 
![[Image: pcav.jpg]](http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/5716/pcav.jpg)
sssh...another country another time) multiple egt gauges were a must. Not mentioning multiple coolant and air temps, oil pressure and temperature (sump, turbo in/out, cooler) If your car broke, you got nicked 
Every last receipt for my car over the last three years totals less than £2.5K (including purchase price, maintenance and a raft of fuelling, breathing and chassis mods). An extra grand for a decent set of gauges and an analytic unit just isn't available.