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(22-05-2013, 11:32 AM)Anton Wrote: Just wind the actuator in and control the boost with fueling. Or better fit an MBC, bugger keep adjusting the actuator!
How can you control the boost with the fuelling? Or is that down to the winds on the compensator? A MCB would be so much more easier
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You will only make so much boost if theres so much fueling. I can make my GT20 make 30psi or 8psi by limiting the fueling....
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Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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Just to confirm a few points here.
The engine will be pretty much as reliable as stock as long as you look after it. Ive seen inside 130k engines that have run big boost for a while and you can still see the hone marks on the cylinders and the bearings look nearly new.
The ph1s are starting to pop head gaskets because of their age, the oldest are over 20 years old but this should be seen as to be expected on a 20 year old car and the go on standard cars and boosted cars.
Youll struggle to wound the engine on a stock pump and turbo no matter how tuned they are.
Id also heard that Peugeot had to de-tune the engine to stop it ruining sales of the XSi as apparently it was as fast before they de-tuned it.
A FMIC is good for keeping your intake temps low and prolonging the life of your turbo, with a good set up its possible to have your intake temps lower than ambient temperature.
Regular oil changes with reasonable quality oil are a must and make sure you use a pug filter as they are the best quality. Every 6000 miles was the OEM interval, some people are doing it every 5k
It is possible to control the boost with the fueling as if there is no fuel you wont make any boost. On my first DTurbo I ran the wastegate arm solid so it would never open and just controlled the boost by the fueling. A maxed 9mm bosch pump will do 32psi on diesel and 30psi on veg with a DWG T2
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22-05-2013, 02:03 PM
(This post was last modified: 22-05-2013, 02:03 PM by ADV_93.)
(22-05-2013, 11:41 AM)Anton Wrote: You will only make so much boost if theres so much fueling. I can make my GT20 make 30psi or 8psi by limiting the fueling....
It's as simple as winding the wastegate fully in and then setting it up with max fuelling?
(22-05-2013, 12:22 PM)Dum-Dum Wrote: Just to confirm a few points here.
The engine will be pretty much as reliable as stock as long as you look after it. Ive seen inside 130k engines that have run big boost for a while and you can still see the hone marks on the cylinders and the bearings look nearly new.
The ph1s are starting to pop head gaskets because of their age, the oldest are over 20 years old but this should be seen as to be expected on a 20 year old car and the go on standard cars and boosted cars.
Youll struggle to wound the engine on a stock pump and turbo no matter how tuned they are.
Id also heard that Peugeot had to de-tune the engine to stop it ruining sales of the XSi as apparently it was as fast before they de-tuned it.
A FMIC is good for keeping your intake temps low and prolonging the life of your turbo, with a good set up its possible to have your intake temps lower than ambient temperature.
Regular oil changes with reasonable quality oil are a must and make sure you use a pug filter as they are the best quality. Every 6000 miles was the OEM interval, some people are doing it every 5k
It is possible to control the boost with the fueling as if there is no fuel you wont make any boost. On my first DTurbo I ran the wastegate arm solid so it would never open and just controlled the boost by the fueling. A maxed 9mm bosch pump will do 32psi on diesel and 30psi on veg with a DWG T2
Thanks for those notes pal!
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i wouldn't wind it fully in myself, leave it there as a safeguard imo mate . .
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(22-05-2013, 02:03 PM)ADV_93 Wrote: It's as simple as winding the wastegate fully in and then setting it up with max fuelling?
You can and its the easier than doing it properly but it makes it very easy to repeatedly over speed the turbo and this will wear it out quickly, you'll also get epic compressor stall when you change gear and if its violent enough this can break the blades clean off the compressor wheel and then suck them into the inlet (worst case scenario). That said it sounds EPIC
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22-05-2013, 09:24 PM
(This post was last modified: 22-05-2013, 09:27 PM by con67.)
a: Closing a wg is NOT 'tuning'
b: turning the actuator to achieve more than 18 causes horrible lag between 18 and max boost. fit a dawes type mbc its only 10-15 quid ffs
b: your not 'controlling' anything with fuel your limiting fuel with no wg
Its the truth I swear lol hate to harp on about this in different threads but the op seems like a guy who wants yo do it properly
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23-05-2013, 09:37 AM
(This post was last modified: 23-05-2013, 09:40 AM by ADV_93.)
(22-05-2013, 02:59 PM)Dum-Dum Wrote: (22-05-2013, 02:03 PM)ADV_93 Wrote: It's as simple as winding the wastegate fully in and then setting it up with max fuelling?
You can and its the easier than doing it properly but it makes it very easy to repeatedly over speed the turbo and this will wear it out quickly, you'll also get epic compressor stall when you change gear and if its violent enough this can break the blades clean off the compressor wheel and then suck them into the inlet (worst case scenario). That said it sounds EPIC
As epic as compressor surging sound is, i know it is of no benefit to the turbocharger. Seen a turbo that had done that before... Messy, i don't think getting the engine out and rebuilding it or swapping it is quite worth a "tssss" when you shut off...
(22-05-2013, 09:24 PM)con67 Wrote: a: Closing a wg is NOT 'tuning'
b: turning the actuator to achieve more than 18 causes horrible lag between 18 and max boost. fit a dawes type mbc its only 10-15 quid ffs
b: your not 'controlling' anything with fuel your limiting fuel with no wg
Its the truth I swear lol hate to harp on about this in different threads but the op seems like a guy who wants yo do it properly
Yeah, i wanted to do it the proper stage 1 way tbh, the winding wastegate in fully and controlling with the fuelling was the first i ever heard... I need an 8mm nut and a boost gauge then i can hopefully get the stage 1 finished! Also, did a 0-60 run yesterday (on a closed off, quiet national speed limit road) and using 2 separate stop watches, got it down to 9 seconds on 2 runs... And i've not even tuned the boost yet...
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I need help with something! Today i went to turn the boost up on my K14 and as i wound in the threads, it decided to thread then pop itself straight out into my hand? Me, shitting myself thought that the turbo would lose nearly enough all boosting force. Tried to do a simple bodge of some form of long bolt to try and create a resistance on the wastegate spring (to give me some boost) and it wasn't having any of it... However, got in my car and drove home to find the car was still boosting and pulling like usual? Do i have a seized wastegate or is this something to do with the fact i've turned the fuelling up so it helps the turbo to boost? It'll have to do in the mean time until i can get my hands on a T2 turbocharger!
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you won't notice a difference between a k14 and a T2 imo mate . .
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(24-05-2013, 11:54 AM)Mattcheese31 Wrote: you won't notice a difference between a k14 and a T2 imo mate . .
Even if the boost goes above 20 PSi?
You got any idea what this wastegate madness is all about pal?
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My t2 ran 26 ish psi and was fine! Now changing for td04 as waste gate problems on the t2
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(23-05-2013, 11:37 PM)ADV_93 Wrote: I need help with something! Today i went to turn the boost up on my K14 and as i wound in the threads, it decided to thread then pop itself straight out into my hand? Me, shitting myself thought that the turbo would lose nearly enough all boosting force. Tried to do a simple bodge of some form of long bolt to try and create a resistance on the wastegate spring (to give me some boost) and it wasn't having any of it... However, got in my car and drove home to find the car was still boosting and pulling like usual? Do i have a seized wastegate or is this something to do with the fact i've turned the fuelling up so it helps the turbo to boost? It'll have to do in the mean time until i can get my hands on a T2 turbocharger! Plug the hole and fit an mbc, it should work fine
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(25-05-2013, 08:45 AM)con67 Wrote: (23-05-2013, 11:37 PM)ADV_93 Wrote: I need help with something! Today i went to turn the boost up on my K14 and as i wound in the threads, it decided to thread then pop itself straight out into my hand? Me, shitting myself thought that the turbo would lose nearly enough all boosting force. Tried to do a simple bodge of some form of long bolt to try and create a resistance on the wastegate spring (to give me some boost) and it wasn't having any of it... However, got in my car and drove home to find the car was still boosting and pulling like usual? Do i have a seized wastegate or is this something to do with the fact i've turned the fuelling up so it helps the turbo to boost? It'll have to do in the mean time until i can get my hands on a T2 turbocharger! Plug the hole and fit an mbc, it should work fine
Where do you connect an MBC to on a KKK K14? It's an internal wastegate?
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(25-05-2013, 11:30 AM)ADV_93 Wrote: (25-05-2013, 08:45 AM)con67 Wrote: (23-05-2013, 11:37 PM)ADV_93 Wrote: I need help with something! Today i went to turn the boost up on my K14 and as i wound in the threads, it decided to thread then pop itself straight out into my hand? Me, shitting myself thought that the turbo would lose nearly enough all boosting force. Tried to do a simple bodge of some form of long bolt to try and create a resistance on the wastegate spring (to give me some boost) and it wasn't having any of it... However, got in my car and drove home to find the car was still boosting and pulling like usual? Do i have a seized wastegate or is this something to do with the fact i've turned the fuelling up so it helps the turbo to boost? It'll have to do in the mean time until i can get my hands on a T2 turbocharger! Plug the hole and fit an mbc, it should work fine
Where do you connect an MBC to on a KKK K14? It's an internal wastegate?
cut the metal pipe that runs to either end and take it off there . .
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(25-05-2013, 11:43 AM)Mattcheese31 Wrote: (25-05-2013, 11:30 AM)ADV_93 Wrote: (25-05-2013, 08:45 AM)con67 Wrote: Plug the hole and fit an mbc, it should work fine
Where do you connect an MBC to on a KKK K14? It's an internal wastegate?
cut the metal pipe that runs to either end and take it off there . .
Is that the metal pipe that runs off the induction side of the turbo? What does the pipe do?
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That pipe feeds the actuator boost, nip an inch out of it then connect two hoses to your mbc on each side youve cut.
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(26-05-2013, 10:03 AM)con67 Wrote: That pipe feeds the actuator boost, nip an inch out of it then connect two hoses to your mbc on each side youve cut.
Ran boost gauge today and she's running 12/13 PSI when driven. Gonna mount boost gauge tomorrow and get a MBC too! Try and get her boosting 18-20 PSI!
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first things first before getting boost giddy have you just gone over your piping to check for cracks and boost leaks? because imo once youve done wastegate and fuel even a little bit there usually boosting about 16psi. just a quick heads up save you f*cking about if you can save some time just getting new hose instead of doing wg and pump again
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i put my boost {screw} actuator all the way in clockwise,my max fuel screw all the way in and back a quater of a turn and my wastegate actuator on the turbo all the way in and back 1 full turn so i got more max power and when the it comes on boost it flys at 25 psi on a lucas with k14 mate and i aint had any probs apart from my clutch need replacing,lol.
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29-05-2013, 12:24 AM
(This post was last modified: 29-05-2013, 12:25 AM by ADV_93.)
(28-05-2013, 02:23 AM)the milkman Wrote: first things first before getting boost giddy have you just gone over your piping to check for cracks and boost leaks? because imo once youve done wastegate and fuel even a little bit there usually boosting about 16psi. just a quick heads up save you f*cking about if you can save some time just getting new hose instead of doing wg and pump again
first thing i'm gonna do when i can get underneath the car! hopefully when this friggin rain stops! Seems to be boosting around 12/13 consistently though! Gonna check the air feed to the turbo and the compression piping to the intercooler... Get that MBC ON! 18 or 20 PSI, can't make my mind up!
(28-05-2013, 06:01 AM)bayley Wrote: i put my boost {screw} actuator all the way in clockwise,my max fuel screw all the way in and back a quater of a turn and my wastegate actuator on the turbo all the way in and back 1 full turn so i got more max power and when the it comes on boost it flys at 25 psi on a lucas with k14 mate and i aint had any probs apart from my clutch need replacing,lol.
Might have to turn it up to 20! Got no screw on the turbo, the screw fell out! Need to fit an MBC now to control boosting...
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will drive better at 25-26 psi.bet your boost is all over the shop with a screw being missing
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(29-05-2013, 05:53 AM)bayley Wrote: will drive better at 25-26 psi.bet your boost is all over the shop with a screw being missing
I was expecting that, but it hold 12/13 psi all day long and still pulls like a train!
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I wouldn't over work these small turbos, yes people say they run them at 300000000024 psi all day and its fine, in reality they just don't flow efficently and makes them wanna go bang I'd say 20 is about right for small turbos
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(29-05-2013, 11:11 AM)the milkman Wrote: I wouldn't over work these small turbos, yes people say they run them at 300000000024 psi all day and its fine, in reality they just don't flow efficently and makes them wanna go bang I'd say 20 is about right for small turbos
to be honest mate, i'm not looking for 163.7's bhp, just a standard stage 1 tune. Fuel pump is done and only need to fit an MBC to turn the boost up as the actuator adjuster is nackered. No point running more than 24 PSI on a TMIC, and i'm only aiming for 20 tops. 20 is enough to embarrass folks so i'm happy at that!
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Oh how times have changed lol
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Indeed haha [SEE-NO-EVIL MONKEY][SEE-NO-EVIL MONKEY]
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