11mm pump cutout

[ginge191]

Cars running 11mm, 3/4 advanced, fairly high fueling (process of tuning) and earlier decided to cut out, struggled to start again unless with a fair bit of throttle.
Also has a tetchy throttle; whilst increasing gradually it occasionally revs it's nuts off.

Any ideas?

[cwspellowe]

How much have you wound the fuel screw in? Do you have the cold start connected? Idle screws? And has the governor been reseated properly in the cradle?

[ginge191]

How much have you wound the fuel screw in? Do you have the cold start connected? Idle screws? And has the governor been reseated properly in the cradle?

i've wound the fuel screw OUT about 2 1/2 full turns.

no, theres no cold start connected; the car had been running the for a bit before hand. the previous two days and a about a mile or so whilst out for a drive.

there's no idle screw in, just a bare throttle

and the pump had been previously modded. It had been running fine, and after we got it going, it was ok... this is what brings me to confusion

[Ruan]

Who built the pump do you know??

Is the Idle (you call it the coldstart) spring internally connected do you know? Has it had the levers played with? What youre saying is the "idle" screw is the antistall screw and the "coldstart" screws are the "hot idle" and "cold idle" screws to clear up any confusion..

It sounds like it might be more injector related I.e. Jammed nozzle filling pump with air..nl

[4WayDiablo]

Isn't it if you want the max fuel out too far it doesn't like it and starts stalling? Wind it back in habit and see what happens?

[ginge191]

Who built the pump do you know??

Is the Idle (you call it the coldstart) spring internally connected do you know? Has it had the levers played with? What youre saying is the "idle" screw is the antistall screw and the "coldstart" screws are the "hot idle" and "cold idle" screws to clear up any confusion..

It sounds like it might be more injector related I.e. Jammed nozzle filling pump with air..nl

The cold start isn't connected at all, and the hot/cold idle is leaning towards the hot idle side (right hand side, if forward facing the pump)
Hmm that would be handy, would save dismantling a pump. we've got spare injectors. What's the easiest way to find the busted injector if it is one; replace one by one, start after each ?

Isn't it if you want the max fuel out too far it doesn't like it and starts stalling? Wind it back in habit and see what happens?

it's over'fueling to a bitch as it is, i want less fuel if anything. The smallest of blips coals..

[Ruan]

So the idle spring is connected internally then - i.e. if you flick the lever it adjusts the idle speed?

Take apart the injectors and clean them up and rebuild them and you should stop them jamming. Just only take ONE apart at a time so you don't mix up parts and be 1000% meticulous in a totally clean place when you do it so if you drop things, you can find them etc.

What car is this from, it would help if we actually knew this as I've seen a few pumps that have been built by various people so know things that may have been done...

Or as usual is it a "secret"...

[ginge191]

So the idle spring is connected internally then - i.e. if you flick the lever it adjusts the idle speed?

Take apart the injectors and clean them up and rebuild them and you should stop them jamming. Just only take ONE apart at a time so you don't mix up parts and be 1000% meticulous in a totally clean place when you do it so if you drop things, you can find them etc.

What car is this from, it would help if we actually knew this as I've seen a few pumps that have been built by various people so know things that may have been done...

Or as usual is it a "secret"...

I've got spare Bosch injectors which I know work fine.
The pump came from AndyG; he himself ran it on his car fine with no problems.
As for the idle spring, I'm unsure, as is max (strictlyderv). The cable isn't connected at the moment, that could be a good start I'd suppose.

[darrenjlobb]

What pump is it?

Check you arnt pinning a needle like Ruan said, easy quick check, just undo lines at injector end, move so you can see tos of injectors, should all already be full of disel, if not make sure theres a pond in each one, get someone to motor it, if ANY of the tops of the injectors spit diesel everywhere, its pinned a nozzle, just strip injector and rebuild, if thats the case, you most likely cooked the nozzle to hot, normally because fire seal isnt sealing, if the nozzle i black / rainbow coloured, thats what happened, just put two fire seals in (after removing old one) if you need to to make sure it seals, no problem doing that.

Failing that, could be an issue with the pump, if cold start spring is disconnected, hopefully your running non 306 levers, as theres no where near enough coutner balance force in the stock levers to make load control acceptable with the stock ones, altho wont cause the symptons your explaining to be fair...

Only other thing is if your draining the pump under load, what filter / lines / tank setup have you got, are you sure pumps getting a good supply of derv? When it wont start, is there any smoke? Bubbles from cracked lines? etc?

[ginge191]

Great info Darren; when I'm awake tomorrow I'll re-read it all and understand it a bit more.

As for fuel setup I've got line -> primer -> fuel filter (large Audi/vag jobby -> fuel pump

On start up there's a fair bit of grey/light smoke. I just assumed this is where the engine had been sat for a fair while..

In hoping its an injector issue; sounds dumb, but the injectors are from a 406 semi - ECU; wouldn't make any different right?

[Ruan]

Won't make a difference, unless they're jamming obviously.

How long have they sat...

[ginge191]

Won't make a difference, unless they're jamming obviously.

How long have they sat...

The ones in the block now - 4/5 weeks
The workin ones outside the block - 2/3 months