Pipes For Air Filter/Future FMIC

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Pipes For Air Filter/Future FMIC
#1
Trying to work out which pipes I need to go from the turbo inlet, along the back of the engine and to the front to an air filter. It seems it's common to use aluminium piping but my dad should be able to get hold of some stainless steel tubing for me at a good price so I'll be using that, unless that'd be a bad idea?

From what I've worked out from a search, looking at the engine and measuring the turbo I'm looking for:

2" (51mm) silicone bend on the inlet (measured the TD04 inlet at 2")
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Small piece of 2" SS pipe
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2" silicone bend
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SS pipe that runs along the back of the block (How long, roughly?)
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Silicone bend
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SS pipe towards front then attach a cone filter to that. (Again, roughly how long?)

Would that be correct or should I be looking at a different size of pipe?

Intending to upgrade to an FMIC in the future so this same piping will be used for that, will just add to it when the times comes.
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#2
Or would it make more sense to use a 180degree elbow?

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport...hose-elbow
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#3
Sounds fine, maybe go for 2.25" on a TD04.

As for how long the pipes need to be, just get a tape measure out. Although before you commit to cutting pipe, you could do what I did and mock it up in cardboard tube.
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#4
PM ginge. Me and him done it on his old DTurbo. The principal would be the same
[Image: IMG_20130925_181339_zps95df48fa.jpg]
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#5
(14-02-2013, 08:11 PM)Jonny81191 Wrote: Sounds fine, maybe go for 2.25" on a TD04.

As for how long the pipes need to be, just get a tape measure out. Although before you commit to cutting pipe, you could do what I did and mock it up in cardboard tube.

That's a great idea! Will go hunt for some cardboard Big Grin Have a few bits left of standard piping left from the dragoon too so I can have a look at how that all goes together to get a better picture of the space available.

(14-02-2013, 08:14 PM)4WayDiablo Wrote: PM ginge. Me and him done it on his old DTurbo. The principal would be the same

Cheers. I've seen how his is setup from the pics in cspellowe's thread and looks about what I'm going for. He went up to 57mm it seems same as Jonny has suggested above.

Is it absolutely necessary to have them beaded? I'm finding lengths of pipe on ebay and I can get them beaded but they come in certain lengths. I think I'm going to need something a little more custom length to fit so will be cutting them up.
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#6
You don't HAVE to bead them, but not beading them combined with using wank hose clips will probably result in them blowing. Use genuine mikalor and hairspray, you shouldn't have an issue.
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#7
Oh defiantly not. They barely have any pressure on them at all. Let alone 20+psi pushing on it so no beading required tbh. I don't think we even put jubillees on all of them (that way he could pull the pipe out from the u bend and have it near enough defilter or push it on for a rainy day and have it filtered)
[Image: IMG_20130925_181339_zps95df48fa.jpg]
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#8
Ok cheers guys. I'll get out there tomorrow and have a look. No cardboard but found some pipe lagging so that'll do for working out the lengths.

I'll go for the Mikalor clamps too, read that name a few times on here in regards to boost hoses. Hairspray? Spray on the pipe then shove hose over to make a better seal?
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#9
(14-02-2013, 08:30 PM)bigcheez2k3 Wrote: Hairspray? Spray on the pipe then shove hose over to make a better seal?

Yep, exactly that Big Grin
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#10
Anyone else got any pics of their piping?

I've looked at cspellowe's and Ginge's ones and just trying to get a good idea as cspellowe's runs straight along the back and Ginge's was curved.
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#11
It's a tight squeeze tbh. I ran 2" along the back of the engine but I was using the Berlingo mani so not sure how much space you'd have with different ones. It was 2" until it got out of the engine area, then a 90 degree up to 2.25" and another 90 degree over the gearbox up to 2.5" iirc pointing it behind the headlight.

You'll have an ABS pump there most likely, so if you can get a 90 degree elbow to go from 2" to 2.5" at the bulkhead. You want the inlet tract as big as you can get it.
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#12
Tbf, dont get hung up on Mikalor clamps, I dont rate them as they're a total twat end to fit... Proper Hi-Torq jubilees are the way forwards, theyll cut the silicon and crush ally pipes before they give up... Fairy liquid when putting them together makes them stick like shit to a rug...
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
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#13
Hi-Grip jubilees.
[Image: 22f2b6b2-758b-4c1c-96fb-6fa9c6059b13_zpsf306b56b.jpg]
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#14
(04-05-2013, 07:00 PM)Dave Wrote: Hi-Grip jubilees.

From america containing the word "gold". Wink
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