16-12-2012, 09:34 PM
Thought i would do a basic write up on servicing your petrol 306.
If you read the service guide that came with your 306, you will see if there is several levels of service. Im basing this guide on the highest (read most expensive) level of servicing.
so, parts needed:
Oil
Assuming your running a standard system (no aftermarket cooler), you will need 4.5 litres of oil. For a system with a 16 row cooler and standard length hoses, your looking at about 5.5 litres.
Across the XU range of engines, Peugeot recommend 10w40 fully synthetic. When they rolled out of the factory, they had Total Quartz 7000 fully synthetic oil in them. A lot of people will say go for the likes Fuchs or other oils but personally im a big fan of the original 7000. Ive ran both my XUs on several types of oil and it runs noticeably happier on the 7000. Even under hard driving, it wont go above 110 degrees. Its also cheap at about £22 from peugeot for 5 litres.
Oil filter
Buy original. There expensive compared to your halfords equilivant (about £9 from peugeot) but you find a lot of pattern filters dont have the non return valve in like the peugeot one.
Gearbox oil
Once again, buy original. Peugeot used Total Quartz Bv oil in their boxes and its widely known that they are only happy with this. With other oils, people seem to have issues getting it into gear when cold, or when hot or just at all! The 6 box takes 2.1 litres of oil. Peugeot sell 2 litres for £12 but 2 is more than fine.
Air filter
Most of you will probably have aftermarket filters. In which case, id recommend just giving them a general clean and dust off and refitting. If your still running a standard box, you have two options. get a K&N replacement. They have a 100,000 mile warranty and just need cleaning with their recharge kit every 30k. Over the life of the car, works out cheaper and generally work better and notice a slight power gain.
If you go for a standard filter, Id recommend a Mann or QH filter but you can go for original if your happy to spend the extra.
Raccoon filter
We all know how tempting it is to save money on this but I really can't stress enough the importance of changing it at the correct intervals. The OE replacement from main dealers is the best way to go, although there's a problem with their parts database so make sure they don't give you inlet valves by mistake. It's a push-fit inline filter just behind the inlet manifold, it's easiest to get to if you remove the manifold completely, so don't forget an inlet gasket as well.
Fuel filter
Located by the fuel tank, Its a small cartridge type filter with two push type connectors. Once again, if you can afford it, go original (about £14 from peugeot) but if not, Mayhle or Mann are good.
Spark Plugs
NGK. Simple as that. NGKs are in the car from the factory. These super 4 plugs are generally regarded as a gimmick and pointless (some cars even run worse with them). The original GTi plugs are actually tri tip but ive never found these anywhere except peugeot.
Dont waste your money on higher spec ones. Just stick with basic NGKs
Coolant
Standard, Peugeot use their standard blue which requires changing by the book every 20,000 miles. You can go for red longlife but i highly recommend you do a full flush first. Not only will this clear the crap out, you also eliminate the potential risk of the original blue congealing with the longlife which can sometimes happen. Not worth the risk for the sake of a £10 flush kit.
Brake Fluid
Stick with standard 5.0dot fluid. You can go for 5.1 or these race fluids but always remember to do a full system flush if going for something different as they can react and affect boiling temperatures. Not something you want when your braking hard into a corner and the pedal goes to the floor.
Cambelt
DO NOT skimp on the cambelt. People always see them as a unnecessary expense as it doesnt make any difference to the running of the car but its preventative maintenance. If the belt snaps, you can say good bye to straight valves. Chances are, it will be time for a minimum of a top end change, more likely be a new engine. Always change the rollers and tensioners with the belt. Normally, its the bearings that fail, not the belt its self! If you can, go for original peugeot. They pop up from time to time for about £80 for the kit. If you cant get one, get a Continental, SKF, Gates or Dayco kit. Your looking at about £80 for a decent kit but dont be tempted by the cheap £40 kits. Is it worth running the risk of cheap parts failing and wrecking the engine for £40?
Waterpump
On the 306, they are driven by the cambelt so same thing applies. Don't buy cheap! Original ones can be picked up sometimes for about £30 but if you have to go for pattern, get a QH as they are actually original part.
Right so thats the parts. Now the times. The change times vary on the usage of the car. If you rag the tits off your car day after day, expect to change things more regularly. My times below are based on normal driving conditions.
Oil and filter - Every year or 12,000 miles. Always change together. If you rag your car, id suggest changing every 6,000 miles.
Gearbox oil - Every 30,000 miles if on genuine oil. If your box is starting to feel a bit grindy or make some funky noises, id recommend changing earlier. It could potentially stop you from having to do a box change. Not a nice job!
Fuel filter - Every 20,000 miles if on a genuine filter. If a pattern, id recommend doing it more often. If your car is starting to feel sluggish, a fuel filter is a great and cheap place to start. nice and cheap and could easily be your cure.
Spark plugs - Every 20,000 miles. I also recommend taking them out on your basic service (6 or 12k) and checking the gaps and adjusting if needs be.
Coolant - 20,000 miles.
Brake fluid - 30,000 miles i believe peugeot suggest but if you ever have to have a calliper off, or have need to rebleed the system, id suggest flushing it all then as well. doesnt take long.
Cambelt - The original time was every 5 years or 60,000 miles but peugeot quickly halfed it to 30,000 miles after a lot of GTis failed. Personally, seeing as they have a reputation for snapping belts and wrecking a head (especially with a gti, no room for error as the valves are so big!), i change mine every 20-25,000 miles. Not a nice job to do and if your not confident, dont do it your self! You could potentially wreck a engine. Its about a £300-400 job at a garage so if your buying a car and there is no history of it, this is a good bargaining point!
Waterpump - Always change at the same time as the belt. If you start to have over heating issues or strange noises, inspect the pump immediately. It might mean taking the belt off and checking but as with the belt, if it fails, its goodbye engine!
Will cary this on tomorrow when i can be bothered to do more typing!
If you read the service guide that came with your 306, you will see if there is several levels of service. Im basing this guide on the highest (read most expensive) level of servicing.
so, parts needed:
Oil
Assuming your running a standard system (no aftermarket cooler), you will need 4.5 litres of oil. For a system with a 16 row cooler and standard length hoses, your looking at about 5.5 litres.
Across the XU range of engines, Peugeot recommend 10w40 fully synthetic. When they rolled out of the factory, they had Total Quartz 7000 fully synthetic oil in them. A lot of people will say go for the likes Fuchs or other oils but personally im a big fan of the original 7000. Ive ran both my XUs on several types of oil and it runs noticeably happier on the 7000. Even under hard driving, it wont go above 110 degrees. Its also cheap at about £22 from peugeot for 5 litres.
Oil filter
Buy original. There expensive compared to your halfords equilivant (about £9 from peugeot) but you find a lot of pattern filters dont have the non return valve in like the peugeot one.
Gearbox oil
Once again, buy original. Peugeot used Total Quartz Bv oil in their boxes and its widely known that they are only happy with this. With other oils, people seem to have issues getting it into gear when cold, or when hot or just at all! The 6 box takes 2.1 litres of oil. Peugeot sell 2 litres for £12 but 2 is more than fine.
Air filter
Most of you will probably have aftermarket filters. In which case, id recommend just giving them a general clean and dust off and refitting. If your still running a standard box, you have two options. get a K&N replacement. They have a 100,000 mile warranty and just need cleaning with their recharge kit every 30k. Over the life of the car, works out cheaper and generally work better and notice a slight power gain.
If you go for a standard filter, Id recommend a Mann or QH filter but you can go for original if your happy to spend the extra.
Raccoon filter
We all know how tempting it is to save money on this but I really can't stress enough the importance of changing it at the correct intervals. The OE replacement from main dealers is the best way to go, although there's a problem with their parts database so make sure they don't give you inlet valves by mistake. It's a push-fit inline filter just behind the inlet manifold, it's easiest to get to if you remove the manifold completely, so don't forget an inlet gasket as well.
Fuel filter
Located by the fuel tank, Its a small cartridge type filter with two push type connectors. Once again, if you can afford it, go original (about £14 from peugeot) but if not, Mayhle or Mann are good.
Spark Plugs
NGK. Simple as that. NGKs are in the car from the factory. These super 4 plugs are generally regarded as a gimmick and pointless (some cars even run worse with them). The original GTi plugs are actually tri tip but ive never found these anywhere except peugeot.
Dont waste your money on higher spec ones. Just stick with basic NGKs
Coolant
Standard, Peugeot use their standard blue which requires changing by the book every 20,000 miles. You can go for red longlife but i highly recommend you do a full flush first. Not only will this clear the crap out, you also eliminate the potential risk of the original blue congealing with the longlife which can sometimes happen. Not worth the risk for the sake of a £10 flush kit.
Brake Fluid
Stick with standard 5.0dot fluid. You can go for 5.1 or these race fluids but always remember to do a full system flush if going for something different as they can react and affect boiling temperatures. Not something you want when your braking hard into a corner and the pedal goes to the floor.
Cambelt
DO NOT skimp on the cambelt. People always see them as a unnecessary expense as it doesnt make any difference to the running of the car but its preventative maintenance. If the belt snaps, you can say good bye to straight valves. Chances are, it will be time for a minimum of a top end change, more likely be a new engine. Always change the rollers and tensioners with the belt. Normally, its the bearings that fail, not the belt its self! If you can, go for original peugeot. They pop up from time to time for about £80 for the kit. If you cant get one, get a Continental, SKF, Gates or Dayco kit. Your looking at about £80 for a decent kit but dont be tempted by the cheap £40 kits. Is it worth running the risk of cheap parts failing and wrecking the engine for £40?
Waterpump
On the 306, they are driven by the cambelt so same thing applies. Don't buy cheap! Original ones can be picked up sometimes for about £30 but if you have to go for pattern, get a QH as they are actually original part.
Right so thats the parts. Now the times. The change times vary on the usage of the car. If you rag the tits off your car day after day, expect to change things more regularly. My times below are based on normal driving conditions.
Oil and filter - Every year or 12,000 miles. Always change together. If you rag your car, id suggest changing every 6,000 miles.
Gearbox oil - Every 30,000 miles if on genuine oil. If your box is starting to feel a bit grindy or make some funky noises, id recommend changing earlier. It could potentially stop you from having to do a box change. Not a nice job!
Fuel filter - Every 20,000 miles if on a genuine filter. If a pattern, id recommend doing it more often. If your car is starting to feel sluggish, a fuel filter is a great and cheap place to start. nice and cheap and could easily be your cure.
Spark plugs - Every 20,000 miles. I also recommend taking them out on your basic service (6 or 12k) and checking the gaps and adjusting if needs be.
Coolant - 20,000 miles.
Brake fluid - 30,000 miles i believe peugeot suggest but if you ever have to have a calliper off, or have need to rebleed the system, id suggest flushing it all then as well. doesnt take long.
Cambelt - The original time was every 5 years or 60,000 miles but peugeot quickly halfed it to 30,000 miles after a lot of GTis failed. Personally, seeing as they have a reputation for snapping belts and wrecking a head (especially with a gti, no room for error as the valves are so big!), i change mine every 20-25,000 miles. Not a nice job to do and if your not confident, dont do it your self! You could potentially wreck a engine. Its about a £300-400 job at a garage so if your buying a car and there is no history of it, this is a good bargaining point!
Waterpump - Always change at the same time as the belt. If you start to have over heating issues or strange noises, inspect the pump immediately. It might mean taking the belt off and checking but as with the belt, if it fails, its goodbye engine!
Will cary this on tomorrow when i can be bothered to do more typing!
Team Eaton
1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
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