Headgasket - how easy is the job?

[Shaleskin]

Well, Since i've replaced the glowplugs recently I retarded the static timing back to where it was originally.
It has now been boosting at 28psi peak (rather than 24psi) in 3rd, 4th and 5th on a Lucas fully wound and K14 fully shut. I'm usually very mechanical sympathetic and done oil changes every 3k etc.

It's never been over 90* temp wise, but from what I've just checked the top coolant pipe is fairly hard. I can squeeze it together fully with a bit of force. Struggled to start, sounded like low compression.

How much would I be expecting to fork out for a garage to do the job (estimate?) or how easy is it? My only experience I've had with HG changes were on my saxo vtr.

Thanks for any feedback.

[zx_volcane]

Not that bad of a job, can do it in a day - or take your time and do it in two and get the head checked over before putting it back on.

Did mine about 6 months ago and now its pressurising again, so deffo worth having the head looked at.

Just as easy to change the engine though, which will be my next move ...

[Danny2009]

I've done a few now and there not too difficult really just get the head skimmed and pressure tested and use a good multi layer steel head gasket and a good timing belt and you can't go wrong pal

[wiggy]

guna come gi me hand dannny? lol mine pressureizing up but just dont a 300mile trip non stop and was fine but wana change just to make sure and the belt aswell lol

[Dave]

You change your oil faaaar too sooon.

Are you actually sure its the gasket going? All coolant systems pressurise to some extend, I would only start worryingg about it when you start having some definite issues.. like water in the oil, oil in the water, and if your coolant is going severely orange.

I wouldn't say its as easy to change the engine at all, lol, there are about a million other things you need to do; loom, gearbox, clutch, shafts, oil lines, rad pipes, coolant drain, and requires a crane all of which need to be done with a block swap. HG requires only possible coolant drop/few pipes round back and cambelt slipping off.

As said, if you do take the head off, get any warping checked out and skim if necessary.

[Shaleskin]

You change your oil faaaar too sooon.

Are you actually sure its the gasket going? All coolant systems pressurise to some extend, I would only start worryingg about it when you start having some definite issues.. like water in the oil, oil in the water, and if your coolant is going severely orange.

I wouldn't say its as easy to change the engine at all, lol, there are about a million other things you need to do; loom, gearbox, clutch, shafts, oil lines, rad pipes, coolant drain, and requires a crane all of which need to be done with a block swap. HG requires only possible coolant drop/few pipes round back and cambelt slipping off.

As said, if you do take the head off, get any warping checked out and skim if necessary.

Ok, in that case. Just had a check and water isn't bubbling while it's running now, cold. Oil is still black but could do with a change (last change 6k ago) and coolant still smells of strong coolant...

haha, exhaust smells of strong diesel so I guess it's not burning coolant... or isn't that the same with diesel to petrol?

Thanks everyone

[Dave]

My HG is nearly done, but idling I have no pressure, it just builds slowly over time. Normally you will get a strong smell of exhaust fumes into the coolant, and can profoundly smell it if there isn't happening then I wouldn't worry. Obviously if your expansion chamber is overflowing with pressure then its time for a gasket, but until then I wouldn't worry about a spongy hose.



This is what I mean by coolant overflow.... well and truly joined team orange engine bay coolant pipes rock hard, but since dropping the boost its become reliable again... (this happened months ago, but still fine) so dont be hasty to jump in doing the gasket until you know its definite.

[CJ_Derv]

Just out of curiosity Dave when you say dropped the boost to what figuire did you drop it lol??

back to original post ive had pipes pressurize in past and was down to a faulty stat

[Dave]

Oh back down to like 18psi, not much its detuned/eco mode, but my point is that even after such a savage lifting of the head, dropping the boost has made it reliable again (in a sense) that its not needed any water for weeks...

If this has happened though, do replace the gasket! because as a daily you cant really risk it. You generally get quite alot of lee-way time with the XUD, they dont normally just die completely into an un-drivable state overnight, you would notice issues before this happens such as that photo hehe they will plod on for weeks providing there is water in the tank, and it has oil in it - just keep the boost down like I have.

[CJ_Derv]

LOL i get you pal ive had about 6 gaskets over the years now lol, they progressivly get worse, i found that heater matrix was blocked completely causing it to go a couple of times lol :S

[JackLewis_Dturbo]

your engine sounds normal tbf... i would check the thermostat first if you think there is abit too much pressure in the top hose or when the engine is up to temp check the bottom hose is warm aswell... if it is your thermostat is working...

[Shaleskin]

Ok thanks for that. I'll lower fueling down to drop boost to 22psi or so.

Noticed this morning that when idling it pops out a puff of blue smoke every few seconds for 10mins or so. Or if I rev it a trail of blue smoke until it gets warm and it all goes. Have I retarded the timing too much?

[Shaleskin]

Ok. Battery now flat as it wouldn't start. Advanced the timing to see if that would help but didn't find out. Guess i'll be leaving my car here. Gasket has to be shot as it really struggles to get started. Noise I can only explain as a popping sound.

Any suggestions again?

[Dave]

From what you've said, I highly doubt you've gone from a spongy hose to a full blown non-starter. Must be something else astray...

[darrenjlobb]

Does it still motor evenly? If so, the gasket isnt the reason it wont start....

The only times ive ever popped a gasket bad enough not to start is on field cars...never on a road car..You have to CHRONICALLY overheat them to do that, and they just melt between pistons / loose all compression, but you can hear when they motor then that they have gone, if it still motor's normally, something else is astray is all im saying...

[Shaleskin]

Well, advanced the timing by 4-5mm and with jump leads started instantly. Sorry for wasting your time guys!
Still appreciate the input though I guess I retarded it too far (although my markings shows where it were before I moved it).

Also why when it was retarded it blew out blue smoke every few seconds or web I rev'd it slightly :/