Immobiliser

[kentiiboii]

Following my clutch change my car still won't start. I've connected elm to it and got back glow plugs. I found a broken wire to the relay and now the glow plugs work but the car didn't start I've changed the crank sensor for a new one as the old one got damaged when the clutch went. But still no go. Well checked everything over but nothing. Injectors are getting power and getting fuel.

Any ideas anyone serious need to sort this before I start a breaking thread.

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The question I was ment to ask is anyone know where immobiliser is and how to bypass it?

[MarkTD]

I bet you've got a dodgy earth somewhere

[Toms306]

Afaik, the immobiliser stops the lift pump from operating, so you'd get no fuel to the injectors, which you say you have got fuel.

For the dodgy earth possibilty...you did put the gearbox earth back on right? I'm not sure whether or not it would even crank without that one though.

[kentiiboii]

Yeah positive gearbox earth went back on.

[Toms306]

Yeah positive gearbox earth went back on.

Well theres your problem...earth should be negative.

But seriously, hmmmm, I'm not really sure what else to suggest for you now.

[kentiiboii]

Haha funny man tom :p.

Think it's just a case of check cam belt hasn't skipped a tooth or anything.

[kentiiboii]

Would the car be turning over if the starter motor went?

[Toms306]

I do try.

Did your car start after the clutch was broken? What I mean is if it did run between breaking and you replacing it, it can't be have slipped a tooth? Unless I'm missing something lol.

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And no, wouldn't turn over if the starter was broke....are you sure the engines turning though, not just the starter making noise but not catching the flywheel...if that makes sense!

[kentiiboii]

It's it's defferntly turning over cos aux belt is going.

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And I didn't try. Didn't wanna bother it make anything worse. I did the cable which is what I thought it was then started it. It crunched then got nothing.

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There no way it could be alternator because it would of jump started of bum started on a fully charged battery.

[Toms306]

Hmm, ok.

Shouldn't be alternator as you say it would've jump started otherwise.

Did you check the cam position sensor as well as the crank sensor? Can't think where it is on the hdi...although obviously near the cam somewhere lol. And the ECU is pretty close to the gearbox, didn't knock any of the plugs? If you haven't already, I'd take the battery off, unplug the ECU plugs and plug them back 10mins later to make sure the plugs are ok and reset the ECU.

[Poodle]

Check your connections. Could be some dodgy wiring or a frazzled plug. Cam sensor is right by your master cylinder btw.

[kentiiboii]

Hmm, ok.

Shouldn't be alternator as you say it would've jump started otherwise.

Did you check the cam position sensor as well as the crank sensor? Can't think where it is on the hdi...although obviously near the cam somewhere lol. And the ECU is pretty close to the gearbox, didn't knock any of the plugs? If you haven't already, I'd take the battery off, unplug the ECU plugs and plug them back 10mins later to make sure the plugs are ok and reset the ECU.

I thought ecu at one point but I could connected the computer to it and get the codes of it. If I disconnect it and reset. Would it remove my map?

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Check your connections. Could be some dodgy wiring or a frazzled plug. Cam sensor is right by your master cylinder btw.

Thanks for the can sensor position. Will have a look tomorrow.

[Poodle]

Resetting the ecu in situ shouldnt wipe your map.

[cully]

no the map will stay
unplug the big double relay behind the battery check the pins and socket for burnt pins

[kentiiboii]

Is it just the one plug to the ecu then? Will have a look later while battery is on charge.

[cully]

ecu is the silver box behind the battery early ecu's have one plug on the top edge, later ecu's have 3 plugs on the top edge

[kentiiboii]

Checked timing belt and that's fine. So putting it back together then try resetting ecu. Seriously running out of ideas. Really don't want to break this car but it's all I can see happening right now.

[kentiiboii]

Reset the ecu still nothing.

How much you think I can break my car for?

[Poodle]

Depends what's on it in what condition and how much mileage she's done. Including scrap metal value i'd guess about a grand, assuming you manage to sell most of the parts and it's mostly in good nick.

[kentiiboii]

She's done 160k miles everything's good on it just doesn't want to start. It's meridian. Full service history. Beams lowered and good condition. anything it's needed I've done. body work is good. Odd age marks nothing major or noticeable.

[Toms306]

I doubt you'll get a grand from it in all honesty - I'm only aiming for £1250-£1500 with the Golf....and you dont get to add VAG tax onto Pug parts.

[kentiiboii]

Well I know my dads just sold a rear drum beam for £100. Mine disc with newish disc n pads and lowered so maybe £150. I have solid beam mounts so If I give them a clean and a paint maybe £100ish. New Valeo clutch kit £80. Body panels £15 each or something. Interior 50-80 pound. I also have 307 283mm calipers £50. Coil overs £100. If I wasn't planning on getting another 306 then my aidels. 250-300. There's much more that could go. Plus let's say £100-150 for scrap.

[C2K]

Ok this all sounds a bit ott, breaking the car. You've only changed the clutch it's either an unrelated fault or something logical is broken based on what you've disturbed.

What happens when you get in the car, just the normal dash lights and it will crank but not start? Is it turning over normal speed or is it lethargic? Have you tried a jump start on the car? Critically, does the LP pump prime? (can you hear it)

Have you attempted to monitor rail pressure using the ELM tool? Low rail pressure achieved on cranking will prevent starting iirc. Crank sensor was swapped out for new as i recall but what about the cam, is there a friend nearby whose sensor you can borrow? Was the crank sensor new or used and known working? Fuel Pressure regulator behaving? rail pressure sensor reading?

Have you checked the double relay behind the battery? Is the ECU responding to the ELM tool? Is your throttle sensor plug clean and plugged in? Have you back-tracked your steps to strip all of the gubbins from above the gearbox (ie battery) to see if you have disturbed a vital earth? The starter may be cranking but there are earths on the inner wing iirc which may have been disturbed. Have you been through both fuseboxes to give them all a clean bill of health?

It has to be something simple, electrical things don't just 'break' without telling you (by failing or by fault code) but a physical issue will normally. I've got a whole HDi engine in the garage if you need anything specific but i'm not home for a fortnight. I'd still say it was a loom issue, as at the end of the day cranking only means your starter is getting 12V, starting relies on everything else getting 12V.

[kentiiboii]

Ok this all sounds a bit ott, breaking the car. You've only changed the clutch it's either an unrelated fault or something logical is broken based on what you've disturbed.

What happens when you get in the car, just the normal dash lights and it will crank but not start? Is it turning over normal speed or is it lethargic? Have you tried a jump start on the car? Critically, does the LP pump prime? (can you hear it)

Have you attempted to monitor rail pressure using the ELM tool? Low rail pressure achieved on cranking will prevent starting iirc. Crank sensor was swapped out for new as i recall but what about the cam, is there a friend nearby whose sensor you can borrow? Was the crank sensor new or used and known working? Fuel Pressure regulator behaving? rail pressure sensor reading?

Have you checked the double relay behind the battery? Is the ECU responding to the ELM tool? Is your throttle sensor plug clean and plugged in? Have you back-tracked your steps to strip all of the gubbins from above the gearbox (ie battery) to see if you have disturbed a vital earth? The starter may be cranking but there are earths on the inner wing iirc which may have been disturbed. Have you been through both fuseboxes to give them all a clean bill of health?

It has to be something simple, electrical things don't just 'break' without telling you (by failing or by fault code) but a physical issue will normally. I've got a whole HDi engine in the garage if you need anything specific but i'm not home for a fortnight. I'd still say it was a loom issue, as at the end of the day cranking only means your starter is getting 12V, starting relies on everything else getting 12V.

All normal lights come on. It's turns over at normal speed. I can hear it priming.
Havnt tested rail pressure as I don't know how still new to elm. Crank sensor is new. Dont know where cam
Sensor is though. Elm does connect to the ecu. I think I've checked the double relay if you mean the one for the glow plugs.
I think next thing is to track what we did with gear box. I know it's something stupid it's just finding it. Breaking is the last thing but nothing wrong in just pricing it up

[C2K]

Ok well the first, and free thing to do, is to back-track your steps. Provided that the crank is correctly plugged in and the speed sensor too you're pretty much done down the back.

Remove all the gubbins around the battery and examine what you've been fiddling with to ensure that a) you've put everything back and b) it's all tight. It doesn't cost anything to do except a bit of time and you may find you had a brain fart during re-assembly, or as i've had before - you've trusted a mate to do a job and they didn't.

I think you need to get something like PCMScan and attempt to monitor the rail pressure, to establish that your LP pump s pressuring the rail correctly as iirc it needs like 120 bar to start, which your pump may be failing to deliver, or may accidentally be bypassing and returning due to lack of signal or poor signal from the pressure sensor or malfunctioning of the regulator etc.

Thinking out loud really. Oh, and cam sensor is on the left hand side of the head near the filler cap, reading the cam pulley.

[kentiiboii]

Cheers for this mate. Will be continuing the car on Sunday my next day off

[C2K]

Re-reading my post I was somewhat hasty in my description (about to leave work). Both of your fuel pumps have a part to play in achieving rail pressure, however you can start with the simple things and work back towards the more complicated voltage checks and data logging.

Chin up, it'll probably be something silly.

[cully]

i think rail pressure is only readable via pp2000
but you can read the voltage from the rail sensor with a multimeter

i would double check the crank sensor with a known good working one as second hand spares can sometimes be shit too

[C2K]

Ok thanks Cully, I couldn't remember if it was available in ELM.

[kentiiboii]

i think rail pressure is only readable via pp2000
but you can read the voltage from the rail sensor with a multimeter

i would double check the crank sensor with a known good working one as second hand spares can sometimes be shit too

The crank sensor got replaced with a new one the other day.