Posts: 2,612
Threads: 124
Joined: Apr 2012
Reputation:
26
Location: Some dimension
Car Model/Spec: Megane DCiR
Thanks: 2
Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
Hi guys just wondering if anyone can help me as im just wondering if these are the correct HDi rods they are out of a 306 2.0 HDI my mechanic broke a car and gave me them i have no standard XUD ones to compare with but have some pics with serial numbers etc
Also they have shells in with slight wear and jsut wondering if i coudl reuse them or not??
Cheers CJ
CJ
Posts: 1,748
Threads: 41
Joined: Dec 2011
Reputation:
12
Location: Midlands
Car Model/Spec: Dtractor
Thanks: 0
Given 6 thank(s) in 6 post(s)
06-09-2012, 10:35 AM
(This post was last modified: 06-09-2012, 10:48 AM by Dave.)
Get some better photos of those shells CJ, the rods look fine to use, those shells look fine in places, but iffy in others
Posts: 2,612
Threads: 124
Joined: Apr 2012
Reputation:
26
Location: Some dimension
Car Model/Spec: Megane DCiR
Thanks: 2
Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
Im on my dinner soon so will take the pistons off and then take better pics of all shells, do you need to see them off the rods?
Cheers for your help Dave
Looking at starting the build soon
Posts: 1,748
Threads: 41
Joined: Dec 2011
Reputation:
12
Location: Midlands
Car Model/Spec: Dtractor
Thanks: 0
Given 6 thank(s) in 6 post(s)
Nah dont take them out, its just the inner parts that you can see just some close up ones, what does the surface feel like to the touch.
Get it done mate, looking forward to seeing some interesting photos for this build!
Posts: 2,612
Threads: 124
Joined: Apr 2012
Reputation:
26
Location: Some dimension
Car Model/Spec: Megane DCiR
Thanks: 2
Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
okay pal,
Well this build is just going to be a HDi rod build tbh then when i have a engine i have a bit of trust in i will be starting the 2.1 crank build
Posts: 2,612
Threads: 124
Joined: Apr 2012
Reputation:
26
Location: Some dimension
Car Model/Spec: Megane DCiR
Thanks: 2
Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
06-09-2012, 11:44 AM
(This post was last modified: 06-09-2012, 11:46 AM by CJ_Derv.)
there you go dave they are all really smooth just the one that looks rather worn can feel slight roughness but my fingertips arent much good when feelin texture of stuff lol
Now i do have a full set of shells for XUD rods which are less than 12month old to come out of another block yet but unsure if they are up to the same standards as DW ones??
Posts: 1,748
Threads: 41
Joined: Dec 2011
Reputation:
12
Location: Midlands
Car Model/Spec: Dtractor
Thanks: 0
Given 6 thank(s) in 6 post(s)
They should be reet Looks like theres been crap in the oil before causing the scores, as long as its not gone through the sputtered layer should be ok, its only in the centre not right across the breadth I would risk it on mine anyway. Shells never seem to be an issue on these motors.
Posts: 2,612
Threads: 124
Joined: Apr 2012
Reputation:
26
Location: Some dimension
Car Model/Spec: Megane DCiR
Thanks: 2
Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
Yeah wicked Dave i thought that but wanted to just check ive heard a few people including Darren and yourself mention in the past the rods tend to bend or go rather than the shells buzzin i can get this together sooner than i thought rather than having to 'SHELL' out for some new ones haha
Will probably throw a thread up for engine build for others to get an idea how easy it actually is to do for just HDi rod build for now anyway lol
Posts: 1,748
Threads: 41
Joined: Dec 2011
Reputation:
12
Location: Midlands
Car Model/Spec: Dtractor
Thanks: 0
Given 6 thank(s) in 6 post(s)
06-09-2012, 11:56 AM
(This post was last modified: 06-09-2012, 11:56 AM by Dave.)
lol that pun was literally face desk worthy bahahahaha, you seen how bent the hdi rods I pulled were, and the shells were only slightly more worn on one side, so even with the torsional stress on them they were still ok.... yeh make sure you put up a thread, whats your setup gonna be, 11mm/td04?
Posts: 2,612
Threads: 124
Joined: Apr 2012
Reputation:
26
Location: Some dimension
Car Model/Spec: Megane DCiR
Thanks: 2
Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
hahaha i know had to get it in there lol
Eerrmmm not too sure wether to run an 11mm yet i have a spare 9mm and a transit 11mm ready to build one but not too familiar with pumps yet but to be honest the 9mm seems to have plenty of fuel maybe just try bigger DVS and see how we go
yeah i seen the rods was like :O crazy that what caused that? any idea i no others say static/dynamic timing kills these along with hydro and not rpms (pushed her to 5500 other night racing a VXR was fun)
Looking at a gas flowed head maybe bigger valves, TD04 is on but may have some work done on it as a friend has started at a turbo shop looking into waqys of making it spool quicker but will more than likely get another as they are peanuts and try on that.
Just in the process of getting Brembo refurb kit and rebuilding them and getting braided lines and spacer kit etc and MC of GTi6 want brakes working mint before any more mods yet haha
Posts: 5,205
Threads: 91
Joined: Dec 2011
Reputation:
83
Location: Oxfordshire/Cornwall
Car Model/Spec: Moonstone DT/Volvo V50
Thanks: 2
Given 41 thank(s) in 41 post(s)
Could you take a photo of the tops of the pistons?, just for my own reference really... I've a feeling they may be different pistons....
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
Posts: 2,612
Threads: 124
Joined: Apr 2012
Reputation:
26
Location: Some dimension
Car Model/Spec: Megane DCiR
Thanks: 2
Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
here you go Ruan
Posts: 1,497
Threads: 177
Joined: Dec 2011
Reputation:
3
Location: Highlands, Scotland
Thanks: 0
Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
The rods are different to mine, mine have DW10 printed on the side where yours are scribed
Posts: 2,612
Threads: 124
Joined: Apr 2012
Reputation:
26
Location: Some dimension
Car Model/Spec: Megane DCiR
Thanks: 2
Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
Just been onto mechanic they arnt out of a 306 HDI but a Citroen with a DW10 engine he thinks hmmmm wondering if they are rigth now he cant remember engine code of top of his head as had these sat here for a while he thinks something like RHY but hes pretty damn sure its a DW10 engine
Posts: 1,737
Threads: 189
Joined: Dec 2011
Reputation:
10
Location: Salisbury/Andover
Car Model/Spec: E39 ACS 535i
Thanks: 0
Given 2 thank(s) in 2 post(s)
06-09-2012, 12:43 PM
(This post was last modified: 06-09-2012, 12:44 PM by Chris.)
Only thing I'm thinking is that they may be from the dw10bted4 (from the bted written on the side of the rod?) are from the RHR engine (136 Siemens managed)
These engines have 2 types of rods fitted. part no 60390 are shared with the xud9 where as 603a6 arnt.
All the dw10 engines run the same rod sizes, but as said above, some use the same rods as the xud anyway so no upgrade
Posts: 2,612
Threads: 124
Joined: Apr 2012
Reputation:
26
Location: Some dimension
Car Model/Spec: Megane DCiR
Thanks: 2
Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
Ahh i see so how would i find out if these are forged or not lol confused now haha
Posts: 5,205
Threads: 91
Joined: Dec 2011
Reputation:
83
Location: Oxfordshire/Cornwall
Car Model/Spec: Moonstone DT/Volvo V50
Thanks: 2
Given 41 thank(s) in 41 post(s)
ALL XUD9 and DW10 conrods are "forged"... They just have a weakness seemingly around the little end area - if you look at the wrist of a XUD9 vs a HDi conrod, you'll see that it actually goes smaller underneath the pin on an XUD9, whereas a HDi is almost straight downwards, there's just a lot more meat there...
Shame they still snap lol... The cranks and rods are forged, the pistons, however are not...
I personally rekon they're out of a Citroen van, they might be out of a 2.2 8v, rare as shit, but they defo won't fit... I can't understadnd how there's "BTED" on them, there's no "BTED" 8v other than the 2.2 8v... If they are 2.0 rods, then feck knows, mishmash of parts has happened...
On another note, if you're putting in those rods, I'd personally change the shells... They really are scored up... I know it's another £100, but if you're wanting something reliable, then it's worth it IMHO... I would want to change those... Me and Dave often have these discussions lol.... Also the scoring is what also leads me to believe they are from a 16v, the 16vs have horrible problems where if the oil is neglected, they just eat themselves VERY quickly, you look at almost any 16v engine that's been used hard, it'll be scored up.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
Posts: 1,497
Threads: 177
Joined: Dec 2011
Reputation:
3
Location: Highlands, Scotland
Thanks: 0
Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
There not 16v pistons tho?
Posts: 1,748
Threads: 41
Joined: Dec 2011
Reputation:
12
Location: Midlands
Car Model/Spec: Dtractor
Thanks: 0
Given 6 thank(s) in 6 post(s)
06-09-2012, 05:13 PM
(This post was last modified: 06-09-2012, 05:13 PM by Dave.)
Hahaha as Ruan says, we often have heated arguments about these things.... im well pikey and risk everything (though I've never had shell issues! they are over-engineered), but if you're getting it balanced/doing the whole job properly, you might aswell go the extra £100 for some new shells to make it an almost brand new bottom end... purely for piece of mind, I just never deem it necessary for me because my point of view is skewed somewhat......
First off make sure they will fit though!
Posts: 5,205
Threads: 91
Joined: Dec 2011
Reputation:
83
Location: Oxfordshire/Cornwall
Car Model/Spec: Moonstone DT/Volvo V50
Thanks: 2
Given 41 thank(s) in 41 post(s)
They definitely look like ones out of a 16v to me... The fact they've got BTED on says they are...
Hence the 2.2 8v would make more sense...
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
Posts: 2,612
Threads: 124
Joined: Apr 2012
Reputation:
26
Location: Some dimension
Car Model/Spec: Megane DCiR
Thanks: 2
Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
Im going to weigh them up when i take the old ones out of new block think i may go for shells, which are best XUD or HDi or does it matter? Spoke to mechanic last night and he said its definitly 2.0 HDi engine just can remember what he took it out of was a taxi he thinks But shall see
Posts: 5,205
Threads: 91
Joined: Dec 2011
Reputation:
83
Location: Oxfordshire/Cornwall
Car Model/Spec: Moonstone DT/Volvo V50
Thanks: 2
Given 41 thank(s) in 41 post(s)
You cannot put xud9 ones in hdi rods... Notch is the opposite way round... HDis are equivalent to Glyco sputter bearings tbh! about the best money can buy...
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
Posts: 1,220
Threads: 136
Joined: Dec 2011
Reputation:
2
Location: Norwich
Car Model/Spec: Phase 2 Dturbo
Thanks: 1
Given 1 thank(s) in 1 post(s)
I got some hdi shells for £54 from a local engine shop. So have a look around if your going to pay around £100!
Posts: 2,612
Threads: 124
Joined: Apr 2012
Reputation:
26
Location: Some dimension
Car Model/Spec: Megane DCiR
Thanks: 2
Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
Wicked Thanks for that Ben, Cheers ruan
Posts: 1,487
Threads: 119
Joined: Apr 2012
Reputation:
5
Location: Buckingham
Car Model/Spec: MG ZS180
Thanks: 0
Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
My hdi shells are costing 96 from an engine shop, could of got cheaper ones though, but don't like getting cheapest parts all the time..
Posts: 15,646
Threads: 541
Joined: Dec 2011
Reputation:
124
Location: Aylesbury
Car Model/Spec: 320bhp Impreza WRX
Thanks: 7
Given 59 thank(s) in 58 post(s)
Theyer definitely not 16v pistons, theyer the mickey mouse (mickeys face is in the crown) DW 8V ones 100%
DW10 TD is the 306 HDi 90
DW10 ATED is the HDi 110
DW10 BTED is the 16v HDi 136 thats used in all the pugs and many fords too.
So f*ck knows why theyer stamped BTED
It would have to be a DW12 to be a 2.2 lump
You definitely want new shells on there mate cos rod 3 is worn.
Posts: 2,612
Threads: 124
Joined: Apr 2012
Reputation:
26
Location: Some dimension
Car Model/Spec: Megane DCiR
Thanks: 2
Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
Cheers Dum Dum where did you find that out? So are these going to be a better option than the ones in my D8a block
Cheers
Posts: 15,646
Threads: 541
Joined: Dec 2011
Reputation:
124
Location: Aylesbury
Car Model/Spec: 320bhp Impreza WRX
Thanks: 7
Given 59 thank(s) in 58 post(s)
I know an awful lot about the internals of a DW10 lump, well any XU based engine really.
Just check theyer the same length as the ones in your block and if they are then yes
Posts: 2,612
Threads: 124
Joined: Apr 2012
Reputation:
26
Location: Some dimension
Car Model/Spec: Megane DCiR
Thanks: 2
Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
Im just guessing here but if they are for a 136 surely in hindsight be the better of them lol
I will have to have a measure up then when i start strippin the xud block
Posts: 15,646
Threads: 541
Joined: Dec 2011
Reputation:
124
Location: Aylesbury
Car Model/Spec: 320bhp Impreza WRX
Thanks: 7
Given 59 thank(s) in 58 post(s)
theyer probably all the same rods mate.
check the part numbers on service box.
|