Phase 2>Phase 3 headlights...

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Phase 2>Phase 3 headlights...
#1
As above are the Phase 3 headlights simply a plug and play swap as the 2 is a H4 bulb yet the 3 are a H7 fitment IIRC but going by the fact that my headlight was just bolted in and to change it I just had to unbolt that bolt the new one in and plug it in I'm going by that, or do I have to play with the wiring etc to get it to fit?
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#2
Pretty much mate although you may have to slightly rewire something I can't remember and might need to change the stalk too
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#3
Plug the head lights straight in and you should also change the light stalk for a ph3. Don't have to. It just means when you use your high beams, both high and dipped will be on instead of it switching between the two.
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#4
^^ this depends on how much of a parts bin special your car is. my ph2 had twin optic frosted lights, so all i had to change over was the level adjuster, as the plug is slightly different.
everything else is the same, except possibly needing a ph3/twin optic stalk
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#5
(15-07-2012, 06:44 PM)Niall Wrote: Plug the head lights straight in and you should also change the light stalk for a ph3. Don't have to. It just means when you use your high beams, both high and dipped will be on instead of it switching between the two.

Sounds like that might be alright for me I do a lot of night time driving so every bit of light is gratefully accepted hence the reason I've got Ring Rallysport 160/90's in ATM Tongue

Is there no problem with voltages and such with both lights being on?
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#6
Powerwise it's fine as both run on separate circuits but the problem could be heat. I've heard of people melting headlights with 100w bulbs and if you have 2x 55w bulbs on, it could be a issue. Doubt it because you probably would never have them on long enough but you never know!
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#7
(15-07-2012, 07:29 PM)Niall Wrote: Powerwise it's fine as both run on separate circuits but the problem could be heat. I've heard of people melting headlights with 100w bulbs and if you have 2x 55w bulbs on, it could be a issue. Doubt it because you probably would never have them on long enough but you never know!

In Lincolnshire you could drive for over an hour and still have high beams on haha it's dead around here!
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#8
Anybody any ideas on what's needed to be done then as I'm really liking the looks of Ph3 lights now!
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#9
swapped mine from frosted to crystal recently just needed to swap the Levelers over which was easy just pop them out of the old and into the new then just plug and play
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#10
just whack em in, change the adjusters, and then work out if you need the different stalk or not. not massivly urgent, shouldn't cause any untoward wiring issues,
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#11
(15-07-2012, 09:29 PM)samass Wrote: just whack em in, change the adjusters, and then work out if you need the different stalk or not. not massivly urgent, shouldn't cause any untoward wiring issues,

It doesn't. I had both single and twin optics on my XS and never touched the stalk.
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#12
H7 bulbs ? thats just ruined my dream of crystals Sad lol
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#13
(15-07-2012, 09:41 PM)Niall Wrote:
(15-07-2012, 09:29 PM)samass Wrote: just whack em in, change the adjusters, and then work out if you need the different stalk or not. not massivly urgent, shouldn't cause any untoward wiring issues,

It doesn't. I had both single and twin optics on my XS and never touched the stalk.

What about the wiring and/or heat issues...my old Mondeo had H7 outer (dipped) and H1 inner (main) so wouldn't of thought the heat would be that bad unless you are running 100w+ crystals though I think the light beam and throw is a lot better or at least it was on my mate's old 306...
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#14
I never used my high beams so never had that issue. As I said, I just heard it can start to melt lenses so best to be safe than sorry.
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#15
i think the melting lenses comes about twhen you have the high beams on and you're sitting in traffic/stationary, with airflow, they should be fine
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