18-10-2018, 08:58 AM
(This post was last modified: 18-10-2018, 09:00 AM by pug306driver.)
Depends on how much fluid you loose.
Soak the union and nipple in penetrent after you have given them a good wire brush.
If it where mine I would use some old windscreen washer tube or similar and place over the nipple with the tube pointing up. I would fill the tube with pentrent and allow to really soak and work its way "inside" the nipple and the cavity between the nipple internal hole and cylinder, with the penetrent working its way up the thread inside the hole.
If you can leave it for a day or two even better. This method does work most of the time but since you will be getting a new cylinder it may be time wasted.
With care it looks as if the union will come out ok without twisting and wrecking the copper brake pipe.
If the cylinder holding bolts break off then hurray !
If the copper brake pipe is held fast to the union, then rotating the cylinder would be a way of dealing with the problem, with some "aftercare" of the union when the cylinder is off.
You know of the trick by placing some plastic cling film or similar over the master cylinder top and screwing the lid back on to slow down or stop the loss of fluid.
Is the fluid in the master cylinder black or discoloured?
If so use a very clean and dry sucktion device to remove the old fluid and top up with new.
I tend to use the gravity/syphon drip drip drip technique of initial fluid changing/bleeding first collecting the old fluid from the nipple into an old jam jar until new clean fluid comes thru, on all 4 nipples, then use the assistant/pumping method.
Follow the manual on bleeding.
1 litre of fluid should be enough.
Take your time and enjoy.
PS i try to avoid using brake hose clamps, i use blanked off unions when i can.
You gunna paint the back plates ?
Where the cataloque brake shoe images any use?
Soak the union and nipple in penetrent after you have given them a good wire brush.
If it where mine I would use some old windscreen washer tube or similar and place over the nipple with the tube pointing up. I would fill the tube with pentrent and allow to really soak and work its way "inside" the nipple and the cavity between the nipple internal hole and cylinder, with the penetrent working its way up the thread inside the hole.
If you can leave it for a day or two even better. This method does work most of the time but since you will be getting a new cylinder it may be time wasted.
With care it looks as if the union will come out ok without twisting and wrecking the copper brake pipe.
If the cylinder holding bolts break off then hurray !
If the copper brake pipe is held fast to the union, then rotating the cylinder would be a way of dealing with the problem, with some "aftercare" of the union when the cylinder is off.
You know of the trick by placing some plastic cling film or similar over the master cylinder top and screwing the lid back on to slow down or stop the loss of fluid.
Is the fluid in the master cylinder black or discoloured?
If so use a very clean and dry sucktion device to remove the old fluid and top up with new.
I tend to use the gravity/syphon drip drip drip technique of initial fluid changing/bleeding first collecting the old fluid from the nipple into an old jam jar until new clean fluid comes thru, on all 4 nipples, then use the assistant/pumping method.
Follow the manual on bleeding.
1 litre of fluid should be enough.
Take your time and enjoy.
PS i try to avoid using brake hose clamps, i use blanked off unions when i can.
You gunna paint the back plates ?
Where the cataloque brake shoe images any use?