The new pivot pins and roller bearings arrived, but when releasing the torsion bars I found only a little play on both sides so I will keep the new parts for a later date/perhaps rebuild a disc rear end one day.
The torsion bars withdrew easily with a home made slide hammer, and this means the ARB plates can be left in place and rotated upwards after removing the arm locater bolts.
For height adjustment that would always be the case, as once the top of the shocks are remounted things are equal height both sides and the locater bolt holes should be aligned also.
My first attempt using an increased unloaded distance between the stub and the chassis reproduced the left side being higher than the right, but the finished car height was good.
The next time, I reduced the stub to chassis 10mm just on the left side, and finished measurements look good.
The excess camber appeared to be gone initially but turning the car around changed it back a bit, so the plan at the moment is to find a flat surface in both directions to check this. A bit of driving (a few thousand) may reveal I have to let off the left torsion bar even more.
I drilled and tapped a 5/16 unf hole to the left of the central jack point and put in 500 ml of straight 140 gear oil.
After a few days checking the level by the clear filler tube showed it to be about 1/3 full, so not a lot of capacity in there.
In the heat of the day the axle housing showed it was airtight by pushing oil back up the filler tube, so I have now put the bung in, and drilled a tiny hole just above the torsion bar to act as the breather, A sticky tape flap stops water from above running into it.
There is no seepage at the end seals yet, a little would be good seal lubrication anyway.
I guess a bouncy winding back road on a hot day would be a good test for any leakage.
Thanks for the guidance/experiences. The 205 axle rebuild guide mentions that L/R adjustment might have to be made, so it is probably not unusual for one side to be stronger than the other, may even always be the left side the strongest?
Cheers for now
The torsion bars withdrew easily with a home made slide hammer, and this means the ARB plates can be left in place and rotated upwards after removing the arm locater bolts.
For height adjustment that would always be the case, as once the top of the shocks are remounted things are equal height both sides and the locater bolt holes should be aligned also.
My first attempt using an increased unloaded distance between the stub and the chassis reproduced the left side being higher than the right, but the finished car height was good.
The next time, I reduced the stub to chassis 10mm just on the left side, and finished measurements look good.
The excess camber appeared to be gone initially but turning the car around changed it back a bit, so the plan at the moment is to find a flat surface in both directions to check this. A bit of driving (a few thousand) may reveal I have to let off the left torsion bar even more.
I drilled and tapped a 5/16 unf hole to the left of the central jack point and put in 500 ml of straight 140 gear oil.
After a few days checking the level by the clear filler tube showed it to be about 1/3 full, so not a lot of capacity in there.
In the heat of the day the axle housing showed it was airtight by pushing oil back up the filler tube, so I have now put the bung in, and drilled a tiny hole just above the torsion bar to act as the breather, A sticky tape flap stops water from above running into it.
There is no seepage at the end seals yet, a little would be good seal lubrication anyway.
I guess a bouncy winding back road on a hot day would be a good test for any leakage.
Thanks for the guidance/experiences. The 205 axle rebuild guide mentions that L/R adjustment might have to be made, so it is probably not unusual for one side to be stronger than the other, may even always be the left side the strongest?
Cheers for now