26-04-2012, 03:11 PM
You've got to consider the powerband below that, it'd end up that it starts at 3k and then goes to 6k - where from 4k the Bosch VE is tapering it's fuel down... When you could have made it that you'd have 95% of that power from 2k until 5.5k - with less strain on the engine, injection pump blah...
If anything I'd say it's a bit big, you can get a GT2056S which is literally perfect for these engines for around the same price and the power would be SO much better...
Unless you had a pump test rig, knew exactly what you were doing to make the pump fuel reliably until 6k, not bog out etc, then go for the 2560LS - but otherwise, you'd make 95% of the power with a 2056S and with a quarter of the ballache of making it rev to 6k...
My 2052V will do pretty much 200hp, take 10-15hp off that as it's a WG turbo and add 500rpm onto the spool... 2056 should do 220-230 if you can hold things together and make the pump provide the fuel without stupid EGTs... If you're going for a 56mm and going for crazy power, you'd probably be better off with a GT22 frame, keep your EGTs and EMPs down. Obviously the 2056S is better for midrange power, it can shift a massive quantity midrange, but you'd find you'll need to keep the boost down, or you'll cook things.
From the Dyno on my car, it's peak power was at 4400rpm, that's only a "baby" 2052v... You'd probably find that was the pump dying off in actuality!
If anything I'd say it's a bit big, you can get a GT2056S which is literally perfect for these engines for around the same price and the power would be SO much better...
Unless you had a pump test rig, knew exactly what you were doing to make the pump fuel reliably until 6k, not bog out etc, then go for the 2560LS - but otherwise, you'd make 95% of the power with a 2056S and with a quarter of the ballache of making it rev to 6k...
My 2052V will do pretty much 200hp, take 10-15hp off that as it's a WG turbo and add 500rpm onto the spool... 2056 should do 220-230 if you can hold things together and make the pump provide the fuel without stupid EGTs... If you're going for a 56mm and going for crazy power, you'd probably be better off with a GT22 frame, keep your EGTs and EMPs down. Obviously the 2056S is better for midrange power, it can shift a massive quantity midrange, but you'd find you'll need to keep the boost down, or you'll cook things.
From the Dyno on my car, it's peak power was at 4400rpm, that's only a "baby" 2052v... You'd probably find that was the pump dying off in actuality!
