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cold/hot idle transition
#4
You can tell by the smoke output, if you want a SAFE tune at 28psi, you need to ease off the max screw, you might even find that if you drop the max fuel, it'll carry on smoking, but boost will drop - that's because the hot, burning fuel that didn't combust completely in the cylinders is actually spinning the turbo faster, but because of various inefficiencies, it's still smoking it's ass off... Smoking on boost is NOT a good thing, you're likely to break and melt things - a puff of smoke as the turbo spins up is fine...

And yes, the throttle stop screw is known as the antistall screw... As I said, IMO remove the coldstart cable, and just run it fixed, so there's no difference between hot and cold, if your engine is healthy it'll run fine in this country without any need for the coldstart lever.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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Messages In This Thread
cold/hot idle transition - by Ricky - 19-04-2012, 03:29 PM
Re: cold/hot idle transition - by Ruan - 19-04-2012, 03:45 PM
Re: cold/hot idle transition - by Ricky - 19-04-2012, 05:05 PM
Re: cold/hot idle transition - by Ruan - 20-04-2012, 10:32 AM
Re: cold/hot idle transition - by Ricky - 20-04-2012, 08:22 PM

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