13-06-2018, 05:21 PM
This is the same pump as what's fitted to the TUD5B engines.
That solenoid you removed is for the timing advance on the bottom of the pump.
Those wires at the back of the pump are for the immobliser and stop solenoid.
There's 12v, negative and 2 serial wires. These are impossible to bypass i.e. you cannot power the solenoid directly.
On the assumption that stop solenoid failures are rare and it's a low mileage engine, and it stopped suddenly, I'm nearly willing to bet money on it being an immobliser or a wiring fault.
Check the black connector on the pump with the 4 wires, make sure the terminals are not corroded, same goes for the wiring where the engine loom meets the chassis loom. Use plenty of contact cleaner and maybe even an old toothbrush to move any corrosion if there is any in there.
If that still doesn't work, get someone with PP2k or Diagbox with Lexia to check the immobiliser is working as I don't remember these cars having immobiliser lights - I have a vague recollection that a friends 16V XSi had one though. it looks like a small green key and if it's flashing then it's not working or doesn't recognise your key.
If the immobiliser is working then you need to remove the armour and change the stop solenoid.
ALTERNATIVELY
You can remove the armour and put 12v straight onto the solenoid, the connector is push fit and not threaded but you can put a spade on the remote wire and use the original push fit cap.
The armour is difficult to remove but it can be done in place.
That solenoid you removed is for the timing advance on the bottom of the pump.
Those wires at the back of the pump are for the immobliser and stop solenoid.
There's 12v, negative and 2 serial wires. These are impossible to bypass i.e. you cannot power the solenoid directly.
On the assumption that stop solenoid failures are rare and it's a low mileage engine, and it stopped suddenly, I'm nearly willing to bet money on it being an immobliser or a wiring fault.
Check the black connector on the pump with the 4 wires, make sure the terminals are not corroded, same goes for the wiring where the engine loom meets the chassis loom. Use plenty of contact cleaner and maybe even an old toothbrush to move any corrosion if there is any in there.
If that still doesn't work, get someone with PP2k or Diagbox with Lexia to check the immobiliser is working as I don't remember these cars having immobiliser lights - I have a vague recollection that a friends 16V XSi had one though. it looks like a small green key and if it's flashing then it's not working or doesn't recognise your key.
If the immobiliser is working then you need to remove the armour and change the stop solenoid.
ALTERNATIVELY
You can remove the armour and put 12v straight onto the solenoid, the connector is push fit and not threaded but you can put a spade on the remote wire and use the original push fit cap.
The armour is difficult to remove but it can be done in place.
A moments silence please, for our brothers in the NAD-zone.