22-12-2015, 08:37 AM
Just had a good read through this post as now going stage 3 myself (still collecting parts) the setup im aiming for seems abit simpler but it will obvs have its draw backs.
Setup im aiming for is as follows:
•r70 fuel pump
•Drive torque stage 3, 5 paddle clutch
•3" twinpass intercooler to 2.25" piping
•Egr delete
•406 manifold with adapter plate
•gt2052s
•1.6 hdi fps
•Aircon delete
•Pas delete
•Straight through exhaust
•Powerflow back box
•C5 bottom pipe
•70mm intake
•Mbc
•K&N air filter
•Lynx engineering crank pulley
•thermostatic oil cooler
•Stage 3
Now as discussed egt's are going to be a huge problem. For the first initiall setup im just simply gonna use a 406 mani (give a little more clearance for turbo), an adapter ported to the mani for the turbo and down pipe thats going to end up looking like frakensteins monster (once ive got a working downpipe it will be re-done in stainless in a larger bore).
Once the setups running if the egt's are too high, which pretty sure they will be i will have a custom mani made to try and free up flow.
![[Image: 538f78eac00001a41ba478466425484e.jpg]](http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/22/538f78eac00001a41ba478466425484e.jpg)
Reason ive stayed actuation and not gone vnt is for a couple of things.
1. Honestly i dont understand how vnt works.
2. I like to keep things as simple as poss to try reduce problems.
With the inlet i looked at several options. First thoughts were to adapt the stock, luckily for me my mates gave me a good slap so now looking at either running silicone and tubing or running this slinky stuff made by ash. The ash stuff seems the easier option but still to decide. What ever happens i do intend to try run the intake in the same stock position
.
Ok so heres some usefull info on maps ive been looking at:
•pro steve map thats initially "going" to make 190bhp and x amount of torque. This is going to be run by my friend but this is an early stage map to yet be tweaked.
•Jammapic with this setup believes he can make 200bhp and around 320/330lbft, he's now become my first choice. Payed for the map and currently awaiting it.
•whippy, ive used him with all of my other maps and he's never failed to deliver for me! Ive gone for another mapper just to see what they can offer but have still been in close talks with him about my setup. I emailed him the other day about my setup im aiming to run and this was the feedback i recieved.
-------------------------
Hi Justin,
I'm more than happy to take a look at remapping the final set up for you.
It looks like you've gone with the idea of just running the OEM injectors and pushing more rail pressure and relieving the back pressure and intake restrictions to get the best power and torque you can.
A good move for now as it means less headaches and a great boost over stage 2. VNT and upgraded injectors are obviously another way to go, but going straight there (stage 4?) before trying what I'd call stage 3 (what you have), is costly and fraught with issues aplenty.
As with another remap I'm working on with a similar spec to yours, I can get a good rounded remap to work with this kinda setup generally, and then tweak from there in smaller intervals, keeping a keen eye on the EGT and possibly some logged data via Peugeot Planet (mainly MAF, SOI and IQ data to make sure it's doing what it's being asked!)
Yes, the FPS wire pins are the other way around on the 1.6 sensor body. I'm not sure which ones/way around they are as I've never done the loom work, but in theory it should be easy enough to swap.
I've seen people do this with an 'extension' lead (from a tuning box type thing usually which has an interceptor to the FPS sensor), so they can just rewire the plug flipped on the extension, and toggle from standard to flipped easily if required.
As per figures, well in theory I'd say 185bhp is probably the limit on the injectors at about 3500rpm, maybe 4000rpm. It depends how high the rail pressure can go at the higher pressures, which all depends on the entire injection system really... but around that I'd say.
Torque will probably be quite similar to a k03/gt15 HDi I'd say, 300lbft at 2500rpm. I've never gone higher than that really. I'm sure it's possible but there are loads of limiters on fuel injections built into the ECU at around that much torque at about 2500rpm.
I think what will probably make the difference is things like your intake and turbo turbine back pressure maybe, they're more likely to free up power (torque) at low rpm vs the smaller turbo cars, so torque might be more in the 325lbft region.
BUT, I'd just be wary of cranking too much torque through right away mainly for gearbox concerns. Remember the OEM spec for torque for this gearbox is 400Nm iirc, so about 300lbft. Usually a clutch is placed as a weak point so it fails/slips before the gearbox goes pop. So replacing the clutch with one that won't slip means the gearbox takes the grief!
I can probably map for 300lbft without an issue, but once I go beyond that I'd let you decide if you want to risk the gearbox because I honestly have no experience on pushing those and what might happen. Ie, in 1st 2nd and 3rd, and maybe 4th in winter it might be fine, tyres slip instead of full torque being transmitted.
But in summer in the dry with sticky tyres, hmmmm, might be different!
Cheers
Dave
-------------------------
Ok so hope this helps out [SMILING FACE WITH SMILING EYES] hoping to have this built by the end of jan so will let you know how much i screwed up
Setup im aiming for is as follows:
•r70 fuel pump
•Drive torque stage 3, 5 paddle clutch
•3" twinpass intercooler to 2.25" piping
•Egr delete
•406 manifold with adapter plate
•gt2052s
•1.6 hdi fps
•Aircon delete
•Pas delete
•Straight through exhaust
•Powerflow back box
•C5 bottom pipe
•70mm intake
•Mbc
•K&N air filter
•Lynx engineering crank pulley
•thermostatic oil cooler
•Stage 3
Now as discussed egt's are going to be a huge problem. For the first initiall setup im just simply gonna use a 406 mani (give a little more clearance for turbo), an adapter ported to the mani for the turbo and down pipe thats going to end up looking like frakensteins monster (once ive got a working downpipe it will be re-done in stainless in a larger bore).
Once the setups running if the egt's are too high, which pretty sure they will be i will have a custom mani made to try and free up flow.
![[Image: 538f78eac00001a41ba478466425484e.jpg]](http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/22/538f78eac00001a41ba478466425484e.jpg)
Reason ive stayed actuation and not gone vnt is for a couple of things.
1. Honestly i dont understand how vnt works.
2. I like to keep things as simple as poss to try reduce problems.
With the inlet i looked at several options. First thoughts were to adapt the stock, luckily for me my mates gave me a good slap so now looking at either running silicone and tubing or running this slinky stuff made by ash. The ash stuff seems the easier option but still to decide. What ever happens i do intend to try run the intake in the same stock position
![[Image: 9c80e3e02ccf3160b7c7f8fbfb6cb6e8.jpg]](http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/22/9c80e3e02ccf3160b7c7f8fbfb6cb6e8.jpg)
Ok so heres some usefull info on maps ive been looking at:
•pro steve map thats initially "going" to make 190bhp and x amount of torque. This is going to be run by my friend but this is an early stage map to yet be tweaked.
•Jammapic with this setup believes he can make 200bhp and around 320/330lbft, he's now become my first choice. Payed for the map and currently awaiting it.
•whippy, ive used him with all of my other maps and he's never failed to deliver for me! Ive gone for another mapper just to see what they can offer but have still been in close talks with him about my setup. I emailed him the other day about my setup im aiming to run and this was the feedback i recieved.
-------------------------
Hi Justin,
I'm more than happy to take a look at remapping the final set up for you.
It looks like you've gone with the idea of just running the OEM injectors and pushing more rail pressure and relieving the back pressure and intake restrictions to get the best power and torque you can.
A good move for now as it means less headaches and a great boost over stage 2. VNT and upgraded injectors are obviously another way to go, but going straight there (stage 4?) before trying what I'd call stage 3 (what you have), is costly and fraught with issues aplenty.
As with another remap I'm working on with a similar spec to yours, I can get a good rounded remap to work with this kinda setup generally, and then tweak from there in smaller intervals, keeping a keen eye on the EGT and possibly some logged data via Peugeot Planet (mainly MAF, SOI and IQ data to make sure it's doing what it's being asked!)
Yes, the FPS wire pins are the other way around on the 1.6 sensor body. I'm not sure which ones/way around they are as I've never done the loom work, but in theory it should be easy enough to swap.
I've seen people do this with an 'extension' lead (from a tuning box type thing usually which has an interceptor to the FPS sensor), so they can just rewire the plug flipped on the extension, and toggle from standard to flipped easily if required.
As per figures, well in theory I'd say 185bhp is probably the limit on the injectors at about 3500rpm, maybe 4000rpm. It depends how high the rail pressure can go at the higher pressures, which all depends on the entire injection system really... but around that I'd say.
Torque will probably be quite similar to a k03/gt15 HDi I'd say, 300lbft at 2500rpm. I've never gone higher than that really. I'm sure it's possible but there are loads of limiters on fuel injections built into the ECU at around that much torque at about 2500rpm.
I think what will probably make the difference is things like your intake and turbo turbine back pressure maybe, they're more likely to free up power (torque) at low rpm vs the smaller turbo cars, so torque might be more in the 325lbft region.
BUT, I'd just be wary of cranking too much torque through right away mainly for gearbox concerns. Remember the OEM spec for torque for this gearbox is 400Nm iirc, so about 300lbft. Usually a clutch is placed as a weak point so it fails/slips before the gearbox goes pop. So replacing the clutch with one that won't slip means the gearbox takes the grief!
I can probably map for 300lbft without an issue, but once I go beyond that I'd let you decide if you want to risk the gearbox because I honestly have no experience on pushing those and what might happen. Ie, in 1st 2nd and 3rd, and maybe 4th in winter it might be fine, tyres slip instead of full torque being transmitted.
But in summer in the dry with sticky tyres, hmmmm, might be different!
Cheers
Dave
-------------------------
Ok so hope this helps out [SMILING FACE WITH SMILING EYES] hoping to have this built by the end of jan so will let you know how much i screwed up
Still Living For The 306 
306 Ph1 Dturbo Estate
205 1.9 GTI (Rust.In.Pieces)
306 HDI Stage 3 Estate (Rust.In.Pieces)

306 Ph1 Dturbo Estate
205 1.9 GTI (Rust.In.Pieces)
306 HDI Stage 3 Estate (Rust.In.Pieces)