(09-12-2015, 06:56 PM)blinkyeatu Wrote: With my 306 in the garage i'm trying to decide how far to go all(ish) or nothing??
As it needs a new turbo i feel i may as well go for an upgrade probably be abit of a sheep and go for gt20....
i would like to go for a vnt but not quite sure im up to mapping it orrr i think dum-dum or piggy posted a video where it seemed the vanes were operated mechanically via the waste gate it was said whilst it wasn't as good as full vnt it was better than waste-gated..... interesting...
I'm also planning on rebuilding the engine with an oil cooler, RHR rods and ARP head-bolts.
so my questions are:
Im trying to get my head around compressor maps, any tips in finding good a compatible turbo?
is it worth me trying to learn how to set up a VNT and mapping it? anyone done it?
the video? is this the "boost can" method?
or
do I just get another T2 and sack off the rods and bolts and have the car back on the road sooner?
although I feel ill be back at it before long to replace the turbo then i guess when i blow a rod or the head ill back again......
GT2256v - Just make up a 'boost can' setup
10mm Pump plus the extras - TBH just stick with a 9mm really to save hassle
ARP Headstuds - Can get away with this if the car doesn't get driven on the door handles
Full service the engine - Filters, half decent oil and a new Water pump, also I would as far as to dropping the sump to clean it out
Probably a clutch of some sort, a valeo will hold on just - I'd probably ram a CG friction plate again if they've sorted that rattle issue out.
and (something a lot of people don't have)....mechanical sympathy.
Can easily add a bigger bosch at a later stage, and ARP studs if you come across any.
Drive the f**k on.
That would peak near enough 200hp but still driveable.
Group of us did a number of miles around europe with an XUD9 with a GT2052v on a 100% stock block (no arps) drove fine because it wasn't driven on the door handles all the time.