02-01-2015, 12:57 AM
(This post was last modified: 02-01-2015, 01:07 AM by dieselgeek.
Edit Reason: adding a line
)
For the many critics on the bandwagon out there, dissapointingly you are not paying any attention to the words in the thread, you've just looked at the pictures.
Firstly the steering collumn UJ, I clearly said in the post that it doesn't protude far enough and that I will rectify it. If your trying to say I've not noticed this or got it wrong then this proves blatently that you havn't read the post that goes with the picture. Read the words!
Welding. There is full penetration, I was watched by a coded welder at the time, not someone on a forum with a cheap welder but a professional who has a good career and is good at what he does. In his words 'it looks f*cking awful but its one piece now'. The fact that its ugly over the top is irrelevant - if you did know about welding you'd know that you can't tell anything about penetration from a photo as you werent there to see it form.
If you took a beautiful tig weld and layed a thin line of arc spatter over it and took a picture it would look like a bad weld, but underneath the tig weld would still be perfect. This is obvious stuff, you can't see through metal.
I've been welding for nearly 10 years, I learnt using arc on plant equipment, I am not gentle, I know penetration. The wire feed was 7/10 and power was on full setting, I was worried that I had obliterated the thin steel but was told and shown thats how it has to be done to ensure good fusion. The beads stick out too far because I layed in too much, by this point it was already welded and I was just wasting wire by being too far away and too slow.
I did work from various points to avoid warping, I've done sills plenty of times (using arc - yes its awful for car panels and takes patience) so know this technique.
Next point. Its a seam weld your talking about, that part is already spot welded on by Peugeot at the factory so even if my weld did nothing then its still as strong as it was orginally made.
This is all clearly described in my post which you shouldve bothered to read!
You can only be talking about the seam weld because the other welding isn't visible, as its behind the layers that I tried to build up to smooth the section, before realising I'd never get it smooth and resorting to filler.
Once again this is very clearly described in the post which you shouldve bothered to read!
Next and possibly most important, its bolted on the original mounts to the body!! Even if the welding was just bad decoration then it still uses the original mounts that were made at the factory.
Again this is clearly described in the post which you shouldve bothered to read!
For all these reasons there is no way the subframe could ever 'fall off' or be dangerous is any way. It uses the original mounts, whether you think its strengthened or not by the welding is irrelevant its still as strong as Peugeot made it.
Its really dissapointing that you've come out with all this stuff that so obviously shows you havn't read the description to see what I've done, I thought this was a forum not a picture book for trolls. Grow up and read it before you spout your opinion.
My 205 end is a spline, not a square drive.
As for the subframe, I chose to do it that way so as to avoid replacing components such as hubs/shafts/brakes to deal with the increased torque. I've also done the entire loom from auto wipers to abs, and the beam.
This way I get a rebodied 306 rather than an uprated 205, as mentioned earlier in the thread. If you wanted to just do the engine swap then uberderv has a very nice example of that, theres a link to his build earlier in this thread.
Subframe welding, didn't take it too a professional because I know 2 coded welders and had 1 watch me do it and then the other (my brother) looked at it and laughed but confirmed it as good. Plus Ive been welding on farms for years, I'm confident with my welding fusion even though my mig is ugly (better with arc but learning to upgrade)
Firstly the steering collumn UJ, I clearly said in the post that it doesn't protude far enough and that I will rectify it. If your trying to say I've not noticed this or got it wrong then this proves blatently that you havn't read the post that goes with the picture. Read the words!
Welding. There is full penetration, I was watched by a coded welder at the time, not someone on a forum with a cheap welder but a professional who has a good career and is good at what he does. In his words 'it looks f*cking awful but its one piece now'. The fact that its ugly over the top is irrelevant - if you did know about welding you'd know that you can't tell anything about penetration from a photo as you werent there to see it form.
If you took a beautiful tig weld and layed a thin line of arc spatter over it and took a picture it would look like a bad weld, but underneath the tig weld would still be perfect. This is obvious stuff, you can't see through metal.
I've been welding for nearly 10 years, I learnt using arc on plant equipment, I am not gentle, I know penetration. The wire feed was 7/10 and power was on full setting, I was worried that I had obliterated the thin steel but was told and shown thats how it has to be done to ensure good fusion. The beads stick out too far because I layed in too much, by this point it was already welded and I was just wasting wire by being too far away and too slow.
I did work from various points to avoid warping, I've done sills plenty of times (using arc - yes its awful for car panels and takes patience) so know this technique.
Next point. Its a seam weld your talking about, that part is already spot welded on by Peugeot at the factory so even if my weld did nothing then its still as strong as it was orginally made.
This is all clearly described in my post which you shouldve bothered to read!
You can only be talking about the seam weld because the other welding isn't visible, as its behind the layers that I tried to build up to smooth the section, before realising I'd never get it smooth and resorting to filler.
Once again this is very clearly described in the post which you shouldve bothered to read!
Next and possibly most important, its bolted on the original mounts to the body!! Even if the welding was just bad decoration then it still uses the original mounts that were made at the factory.
Again this is clearly described in the post which you shouldve bothered to read!
For all these reasons there is no way the subframe could ever 'fall off' or be dangerous is any way. It uses the original mounts, whether you think its strengthened or not by the welding is irrelevant its still as strong as Peugeot made it.
Its really dissapointing that you've come out with all this stuff that so obviously shows you havn't read the description to see what I've done, I thought this was a forum not a picture book for trolls. Grow up and read it before you spout your opinion.
(02-01-2015, 12:32 AM)pugtk Wrote: Why do you need a 306 subframe to mount a hdi engine?
Should bolt up to a 205 turbo diesel/gti subframe.
As for the uj, Ive just used a square drive from a 205 to fit my 306 p/s rack this evening. Fits perfectly
As for the subframe welding, I would send any serious parts of welding to a fabrication shop/engineering shop.
My 205 end is a spline, not a square drive.
As for the subframe, I chose to do it that way so as to avoid replacing components such as hubs/shafts/brakes to deal with the increased torque. I've also done the entire loom from auto wipers to abs, and the beam.
This way I get a rebodied 306 rather than an uprated 205, as mentioned earlier in the thread. If you wanted to just do the engine swap then uberderv has a very nice example of that, theres a link to his build earlier in this thread.
Subframe welding, didn't take it too a professional because I know 2 coded welders and had 1 watch me do it and then the other (my brother) looked at it and laughed but confirmed it as good. Plus Ive been welding on farms for years, I'm confident with my welding fusion even though my mig is ugly (better with arc but learning to upgrade)