01-01-2015, 03:34 PM
(This post was last modified: 01-01-2015, 03:46 PM by dieselgeek.)
Been away for xmas hence no recent updates. Hope you all had a nice holiday time etc.
So the key part of this conversion really is making the 306 subframe fit the 205 body so this is a loooong post! As with everything else on this car, its taken me a few times to get a system I'm happy with.
For various reasons the subframe has to be dropped slightly - the main reason being that the gearbox needs enough clearance on the lower inner wing section of body but also for clearance on lots of other bits and bobs. I went with a 25mm drop, this suited it but the main reason is that this meant the rear subframe mounts would be easy.
For the rear mounts I took the 306 subframe and cut out a small rectangle around the mounting bolt holes, then chopped off the corresponding rear mounting part from the 205 subframe and welded it (very serious welding - its one piece of metal now, not just 2 stuck together!) above the 306 subframe.
So the 205 body shape is fitted correctly by the 205 subframe mounting part. The rectangular hole at the 306 rear mounts mean that you access the original bolt holes in the 205 subframe with a socket.
The part of the 205 subframe that I cut off is 25mm tall.
Still following? This is awkward to tryand explain so I've done a pikey diagram in paint (can't find the photos for this atm so will just take some next time I drop the subframe down).
The front subframe mounts were far more awkward and took a few attempts to get right. Basically I needed a spacer that was 25mm, with it first bolted to the body, and then the subframe bolted to the spacer. My first attempt was a solid block welded to the body with the subframe welded to the block - this is how I was driving the car originally as it was very quick to make. In reality just welding the subframe to the car was such a pikey bodge its embarrassing, but it meant I could go drive it and thats what it was all about at the time.....
When the mot ran out it was time to do it properly.
I needed something that was OEM in terms of removing the subframe for maintenance, and would pass a genuine mot. So I cut off the pikey 25mm block and was left with just the original body again and then started thinking about what to do....
So my next attempt was a bit of 25mm box section, bolted to the car then with the subframe bolted up. Once I was happy with this (in terms of bolt spacing and fitment) I took it apart and used it as a pattern to make a better one, working out how to make it stronger and oem looking.
My end result is custom made box section from high quality steel, couldn't get high enough quality box section (in terms of strength) so I had a professional welder get the highest quality 'L' section steel he could find and weld 2 parts together to make box section.
This is then bolted up to the car (I cut a small hole in the body big enough for a spanner and put nuts on the top of the bolts to add to the threads in the body section) and welded everything very sturdily in place, I then made upright supports and welded these to the box section and the body.
The piece of body which the subframe bolts to is a part which Peugeot spot weld (in only 6 places!) to the main body tub - so I seam welded this whole original section whilst I was there with the welder.
With the 25mm box section now part of the body I used body filler over the welds to make it look as smooth as the original body curves, then sanded down, painted, and waxoiled. It will be interesting to see if the filler stays keyed in with it being so close to constant vibrations from wheel and engine - or if it slowly breaks apart..
Then lifted the subframe up with everything attached and bolted it into place. (I use an engine crane attached to the subframe via straps through the strut top holes, this lfts it perfectly into place)
With the subframe in place I decided to weld an extra bit onto the subframe so I could bolt into the side of the box section as well as the underneath of it.
So both sides are finished to a standard I'm happy with. The subframe is removed using the standard bollts so you can still follow mr. haynes manual to remove it except for the addition of the two side mounting bolts.
pic of front subframe mount with diagram/notes over top to try and explain it
pic from front angle
pic from front/side angle
pic during welding, showing seam welding.
I'm using a clark gasless mig, its nothing like as neat as a gas welder but its very cheap to run and I can't justify the extra cost of gas just to make it look prettier. The fusion is just as good as long as your patient with it.
You can make out the circular marks from the original Peugeot spot welds.
I spent a long time trying to build up with weld to make it smooth, but in the end resorted to filler just because I've been spending a fortune on mig wire.
This is with the filler before sanding down.
Side on pic, showing extra 2 side bolts.
Its all really ugly with the waxoil over it, should've taken pics after paint really when it was all shiny.
Note the brake line isn't up to MOT spec yet, will have to get round to having that firmly attached instead of rattling around on the mount.
So the key part of this conversion really is making the 306 subframe fit the 205 body so this is a loooong post! As with everything else on this car, its taken me a few times to get a system I'm happy with.
For various reasons the subframe has to be dropped slightly - the main reason being that the gearbox needs enough clearance on the lower inner wing section of body but also for clearance on lots of other bits and bobs. I went with a 25mm drop, this suited it but the main reason is that this meant the rear subframe mounts would be easy.
For the rear mounts I took the 306 subframe and cut out a small rectangle around the mounting bolt holes, then chopped off the corresponding rear mounting part from the 205 subframe and welded it (very serious welding - its one piece of metal now, not just 2 stuck together!) above the 306 subframe.
So the 205 body shape is fitted correctly by the 205 subframe mounting part. The rectangular hole at the 306 rear mounts mean that you access the original bolt holes in the 205 subframe with a socket.
The part of the 205 subframe that I cut off is 25mm tall.
Still following? This is awkward to tryand explain so I've done a pikey diagram in paint (can't find the photos for this atm so will just take some next time I drop the subframe down).
The front subframe mounts were far more awkward and took a few attempts to get right. Basically I needed a spacer that was 25mm, with it first bolted to the body, and then the subframe bolted to the spacer. My first attempt was a solid block welded to the body with the subframe welded to the block - this is how I was driving the car originally as it was very quick to make. In reality just welding the subframe to the car was such a pikey bodge its embarrassing, but it meant I could go drive it and thats what it was all about at the time.....
When the mot ran out it was time to do it properly.
I needed something that was OEM in terms of removing the subframe for maintenance, and would pass a genuine mot. So I cut off the pikey 25mm block and was left with just the original body again and then started thinking about what to do....
So my next attempt was a bit of 25mm box section, bolted to the car then with the subframe bolted up. Once I was happy with this (in terms of bolt spacing and fitment) I took it apart and used it as a pattern to make a better one, working out how to make it stronger and oem looking.
My end result is custom made box section from high quality steel, couldn't get high enough quality box section (in terms of strength) so I had a professional welder get the highest quality 'L' section steel he could find and weld 2 parts together to make box section.
This is then bolted up to the car (I cut a small hole in the body big enough for a spanner and put nuts on the top of the bolts to add to the threads in the body section) and welded everything very sturdily in place, I then made upright supports and welded these to the box section and the body.
The piece of body which the subframe bolts to is a part which Peugeot spot weld (in only 6 places!) to the main body tub - so I seam welded this whole original section whilst I was there with the welder.
With the 25mm box section now part of the body I used body filler over the welds to make it look as smooth as the original body curves, then sanded down, painted, and waxoiled. It will be interesting to see if the filler stays keyed in with it being so close to constant vibrations from wheel and engine - or if it slowly breaks apart..
Then lifted the subframe up with everything attached and bolted it into place. (I use an engine crane attached to the subframe via straps through the strut top holes, this lfts it perfectly into place)
With the subframe in place I decided to weld an extra bit onto the subframe so I could bolt into the side of the box section as well as the underneath of it.
So both sides are finished to a standard I'm happy with. The subframe is removed using the standard bollts so you can still follow mr. haynes manual to remove it except for the addition of the two side mounting bolts.
pic of front subframe mount with diagram/notes over top to try and explain it
pic from front angle
pic from front/side angle
pic during welding, showing seam welding.
I'm using a clark gasless mig, its nothing like as neat as a gas welder but its very cheap to run and I can't justify the extra cost of gas just to make it look prettier. The fusion is just as good as long as your patient with it.
You can make out the circular marks from the original Peugeot spot welds.
I spent a long time trying to build up with weld to make it smooth, but in the end resorted to filler just because I've been spending a fortune on mig wire.
This is with the filler before sanding down.
Side on pic, showing extra 2 side bolts.
Its all really ugly with the waxoil over it, should've taken pics after paint really when it was all shiny.
Note the brake line isn't up to MOT spec yet, will have to get round to having that firmly attached instead of rattling around on the mount.