09-08-2013, 06:44 PM
Okay, been doing my fackin' nut recently with this. I just can't for the life of me seem to get the idle right. Back when I bought it I would turn the key and the motor would just start up without coughing, shuddering, rattling etc.
Now it seems that if I adjust the pump to the extent where it will start on the turn of the key it ends up at like 1500RPM once the engine is warm.
Sure I'm not running a cold start cable off the wax stat but I have heard people saying to discard the cold start spring which would also disable the system and they haven't had any problems? I am assuming they are part of the same system.
How I have it set up now if to idle at about 1100RPM when warm which means that I have to put my foot on the throttle to start it in the morning until it revs itself for the first couple of minutes until the idle smooths out.
I have removed the hot and cold idle screws as they both control the same lever? So backing off one would have the same effect as screwing in the other? And the idle screw on the back of the pump does the same job anyway?
Really can't see the need for 3 different idle screws.
Now it seems that if I adjust the pump to the extent where it will start on the turn of the key it ends up at like 1500RPM once the engine is warm.
Sure I'm not running a cold start cable off the wax stat but I have heard people saying to discard the cold start spring which would also disable the system and they haven't had any problems? I am assuming they are part of the same system.
How I have it set up now if to idle at about 1100RPM when warm which means that I have to put my foot on the throttle to start it in the morning until it revs itself for the first couple of minutes until the idle smooths out.
I have removed the hot and cold idle screws as they both control the same lever? So backing off one would have the same effect as screwing in the other? And the idle screw on the back of the pump does the same job anyway?
Really can't see the need for 3 different idle screws.