15-07-2013, 08:17 PM
In response to this clutch question that I've (never been asked) been avoiding, its the standard clutch, which worked fine for the first 500 or so miles unless really hot, and is now slipping under full boost in third and fourth. The pressure player isn't releasing the clutch fully so stationary gear changes are a bitch.
I have a sprung 4 paddle clutch from a 106 cup car, that I got on ebay for 50 quid. Going to out a 200mm gti flywheel and pressure plate when i change engines.
Also don't go thinking I've loads of cash to go spending as and when this blows up, to date, the car owes me about 600 quid. That's buying, taxing, and moting and boosting. A new engine will be 50 quid.
Manage the temps and you won't blow it up. I've had mine at 135 degrees on the oil, and over 120 degrees on the water, and my r is in the pipe that comes out the rad, so that's after its been cooled, in the engine add on another 50 degrees, so basically, a jacket of steam around the cylinders.
I lifted the head on the hill at pugfest, tightened the head bolts and she's been fine.
Seriously, blowing the engine is the least of your worries.
I have a sprung 4 paddle clutch from a 106 cup car, that I got on ebay for 50 quid. Going to out a 200mm gti flywheel and pressure plate when i change engines.
Also don't go thinking I've loads of cash to go spending as and when this blows up, to date, the car owes me about 600 quid. That's buying, taxing, and moting and boosting. A new engine will be 50 quid.
Manage the temps and you won't blow it up. I've had mine at 135 degrees on the oil, and over 120 degrees on the water, and my r is in the pipe that comes out the rad, so that's after its been cooled, in the engine add on another 50 degrees, so basically, a jacket of steam around the cylinders.
I lifted the head on the hill at pugfest, tightened the head bolts and she's been fine.
Seriously, blowing the engine is the least of your worries.
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