03-12-2012, 10:14 PM
I know alot of people here are dead interested in this and hopefully itll be useful for a few people. If this is useful for you will you please consider donating to the club as we run purely on donations not advertising revenue unlike other forums.
So why would you want one?
Well its a nice lazy torquey long stroke motor. It will make an excellent cruiser/daily/tow car but itll never be the 6-7k screaming diesel that some people love from the XUD9s.
On a 9mm pump and standard turbo im running about 150bhp and 240lb/ft and several serial 306 owners agree on that so it cant be far wrong. It dosent feel fast ever but it adds speed at a substantial rate and has a pretty constant rate of acceleration all the way through the revs. Its power band is from 1700-4500rpm and id say its comfortably above 110bhp and 190lb/ft all the way through that range. It never feels troubles of frantic when you put your foot down. I think its more comfortable driven slowly than the XUD9 too. Loves sitting at 2k on the motorway at 60mph and does over 60mpg at that speed too (and on veg at 90ppl makes for seriously cheap running)
So this is my way of doing it keeping the turbo in its standard position, not gearbox mounting it as that requires some custom fabrication. Theres other ways of doing things im sure but im only gonna write about what Ive done.
Firstly theres 2 turbo set ups on the 2.1 Lumps, the XM/605 lump that puts the turbo on top of the manifold and the 406/Xantia lump that mounts it straight out the back of the manifold however from what i can see both appear to be in pretty much exactly the same place and both have the hotside on the drivers side of the car so have to route their outlet elbow under the turbo to get anywhere near the exhaust tunnel.
So where to start.....
Essentially the lump drops straight in on standard mounts with a standard 306 flywheel, clutch and gearbox. Its the details thatll get you.
So
The engine itself is taller for the longer stroke and also the head is bigger for the 12valves and with the inlet running over the top of the engine this makes it a very tall lump, the top of the manifold sits about 10-20mm higher than the being level with the top of the wings. I think on a ph1 this would be a big issue, as it is I have a ph3 bonnet with the bulge in it and had about 15-25mm clearance
Youll need to use a 306 Bosch pump set up and injectors but youll have to bend the fuel lines to get them to fit. Use all the 306s standard fuel lines too.
You need to bolt the 306 upper engine mounting arm and 306 bottom engine mount to the XUD11 lump.
A standard 306 gearbox and flywheel bolts straight up but you will need to drill and tap the back of the block for an RPM sensor. Just measure the 306 block across 2 of the fly wheel bolt holes with a straight edge to see how far out you need to drill the new hole.
You use the standard 306 Starter motor
You cant fit the turbo closer to the block in a 306 orientation as it will hit the water manifold at the back of the block that is substantially larger than the 306 one as it houses the thermostat.
The turbo oil return pipe will foul the gear linkage meaning you cant get 2nd, 4th or reverse, trim the rubber at the bottom and unbolt it from the turbo mount then use 2 cable ties round the engine mount to pull it about 20mm towards he driver side.
The 306 water pipe that runs alongside the engine is slightly too small to fit on the water rail but with a bit of washing up liquid and swearing it will go on.
The water pipe that runs vertically from the water manifold fouls the master cylinder, heat it and bend it so it sits between the first 2 runners of the inlet manifold.
The thermostat housing (with the fuel filter housing on top) from the 306 block can be swapped to the XUD11 block as then you keep the 306 sensors and also loose a water hose that would of been unused otherwise.
The thermostat is in the water rail on the XUD11 so you can remove the 306 one or the XUD11 one or leave them both in (as I have).
Use the 306s Alternator and power steering set up and bracket but youll need to grind a bit off the sump to fit the bracket.
The turbo outlet is the main bit that fouls. It sits on the steering column UJ right on the bolted bit and its flange. Youll need to heat the pipe and put a dent in it and also grind down the bolt and the flanges a little. Group N engine mounts will also help solve this issue as its worst under acceleration when the engine rocks backwards.
The other bit the turbo outlet fouls is the drivers foot well at the start of the exhaust tunnel right up high just under the cross member of the bulkhead. Be careful as the heater matrix is just above this and youll need to knock it in towards the pedals by what is probably a good couple of inches.
Youll also need to cut out/flatten with a big hammer a long section of the box section that runs across the back of the bay to stop the turbo hitting it.
Youll need to fit a FMIC as it dosent have the option of a TMIC.
The wastegate is a piece of piss to adjust when its off the car.
Use the 306 wiring loom.
If youve knocked enough out of the exhaust tunnle a peugeot 605 front pipe will bolt straight up (early ones didnt have a cat) and its a good fit in the tunnel.
Youll then need a 3dr TD/HDi center section shortened by about 12 inches (the exact length of the center box if you buy from ECP) but when we cut the box out we found the 2 bits left sleeved inside each other so would be easy to weld (we hammered, sealed and drilled and bolted them together).
We then found the back box didnt meet the center by about 2 inches, we could of bent the hangers but we very carefully cut the hangar off the box and used a f*ck massive jubilee clip to re attach the hangar 2 inches further down the box.
And thats about it. Im not gonna talk you through every pipe but have a good supply of bits of hose and youll do well.
It will need a FMIC but if your gonna do an engine swap you can manage to bodge on a FMIC.
So what youll need and its costings.
Engine - £70-£300 Mine was £250. Itll need to come with water manifold, turbo and upper and lower inlet manifolds, everything else really is best replaced with 306 bits.
FMIC kit - £50-£500 Mine was £180. The inlet manifold is 60mm and the turbo outlet is 54mm OD so a 2.25" kit will just have enough stretch to fit both of those.
Bosch pump lines and injectors - Free-£30-£300 Mine was FREE as it was on the car before hand. The semi ECU pump these have as standard wont like being swapped about You might well want to fit this with a 10mm or 11mm pump as ive already maxed my 9mm pump and im only just hazing on boost.
Gearbox - Free-£100 Mine was £50. You can use a standard DTurbo box (or any BE series box for that matter really) but ive gone for a 306 HDi box as it gives longer ratios that suit this engine better and it does 2000rpm at 60mph on the motorway and at that speed gives over 60mpg.
Exhaust bits - 605 front pipe was £50 and the center section was £25 brand new
Obviously its advisable to do all the service bits when swapping it over plus cam belt, water pump and a clutch and thatll add another £300 to your total.
If you want to do it KrisB french car specialist did mine with me getting in the way alot he can be contacted www.krisb.co.uk and I reckon he'd want all the parts and 2 days labor to do it, maybe a little more as just swapping so much stuff over is time consuming although none of it is particularly difficult.
So why would you want one?
Well its a nice lazy torquey long stroke motor. It will make an excellent cruiser/daily/tow car but itll never be the 6-7k screaming diesel that some people love from the XUD9s.
On a 9mm pump and standard turbo im running about 150bhp and 240lb/ft and several serial 306 owners agree on that so it cant be far wrong. It dosent feel fast ever but it adds speed at a substantial rate and has a pretty constant rate of acceleration all the way through the revs. Its power band is from 1700-4500rpm and id say its comfortably above 110bhp and 190lb/ft all the way through that range. It never feels troubles of frantic when you put your foot down. I think its more comfortable driven slowly than the XUD9 too. Loves sitting at 2k on the motorway at 60mph and does over 60mpg at that speed too (and on veg at 90ppl makes for seriously cheap running)
So this is my way of doing it keeping the turbo in its standard position, not gearbox mounting it as that requires some custom fabrication. Theres other ways of doing things im sure but im only gonna write about what Ive done.
Firstly theres 2 turbo set ups on the 2.1 Lumps, the XM/605 lump that puts the turbo on top of the manifold and the 406/Xantia lump that mounts it straight out the back of the manifold however from what i can see both appear to be in pretty much exactly the same place and both have the hotside on the drivers side of the car so have to route their outlet elbow under the turbo to get anywhere near the exhaust tunnel.
So where to start.....
Essentially the lump drops straight in on standard mounts with a standard 306 flywheel, clutch and gearbox. Its the details thatll get you.
So
The engine itself is taller for the longer stroke and also the head is bigger for the 12valves and with the inlet running over the top of the engine this makes it a very tall lump, the top of the manifold sits about 10-20mm higher than the being level with the top of the wings. I think on a ph1 this would be a big issue, as it is I have a ph3 bonnet with the bulge in it and had about 15-25mm clearance
Youll need to use a 306 Bosch pump set up and injectors but youll have to bend the fuel lines to get them to fit. Use all the 306s standard fuel lines too.
You need to bolt the 306 upper engine mounting arm and 306 bottom engine mount to the XUD11 lump.
A standard 306 gearbox and flywheel bolts straight up but you will need to drill and tap the back of the block for an RPM sensor. Just measure the 306 block across 2 of the fly wheel bolt holes with a straight edge to see how far out you need to drill the new hole.
You use the standard 306 Starter motor
You cant fit the turbo closer to the block in a 306 orientation as it will hit the water manifold at the back of the block that is substantially larger than the 306 one as it houses the thermostat.
The turbo oil return pipe will foul the gear linkage meaning you cant get 2nd, 4th or reverse, trim the rubber at the bottom and unbolt it from the turbo mount then use 2 cable ties round the engine mount to pull it about 20mm towards he driver side.
The 306 water pipe that runs alongside the engine is slightly too small to fit on the water rail but with a bit of washing up liquid and swearing it will go on.
The water pipe that runs vertically from the water manifold fouls the master cylinder, heat it and bend it so it sits between the first 2 runners of the inlet manifold.
The thermostat housing (with the fuel filter housing on top) from the 306 block can be swapped to the XUD11 block as then you keep the 306 sensors and also loose a water hose that would of been unused otherwise.
The thermostat is in the water rail on the XUD11 so you can remove the 306 one or the XUD11 one or leave them both in (as I have).
Use the 306s Alternator and power steering set up and bracket but youll need to grind a bit off the sump to fit the bracket.
The turbo outlet is the main bit that fouls. It sits on the steering column UJ right on the bolted bit and its flange. Youll need to heat the pipe and put a dent in it and also grind down the bolt and the flanges a little. Group N engine mounts will also help solve this issue as its worst under acceleration when the engine rocks backwards.
The other bit the turbo outlet fouls is the drivers foot well at the start of the exhaust tunnel right up high just under the cross member of the bulkhead. Be careful as the heater matrix is just above this and youll need to knock it in towards the pedals by what is probably a good couple of inches.
Youll also need to cut out/flatten with a big hammer a long section of the box section that runs across the back of the bay to stop the turbo hitting it.
Youll need to fit a FMIC as it dosent have the option of a TMIC.
The wastegate is a piece of piss to adjust when its off the car.
Use the 306 wiring loom.
If youve knocked enough out of the exhaust tunnle a peugeot 605 front pipe will bolt straight up (early ones didnt have a cat) and its a good fit in the tunnel.
Youll then need a 3dr TD/HDi center section shortened by about 12 inches (the exact length of the center box if you buy from ECP) but when we cut the box out we found the 2 bits left sleeved inside each other so would be easy to weld (we hammered, sealed and drilled and bolted them together).
We then found the back box didnt meet the center by about 2 inches, we could of bent the hangers but we very carefully cut the hangar off the box and used a f*ck massive jubilee clip to re attach the hangar 2 inches further down the box.
And thats about it. Im not gonna talk you through every pipe but have a good supply of bits of hose and youll do well.
It will need a FMIC but if your gonna do an engine swap you can manage to bodge on a FMIC.
So what youll need and its costings.
Engine - £70-£300 Mine was £250. Itll need to come with water manifold, turbo and upper and lower inlet manifolds, everything else really is best replaced with 306 bits.
FMIC kit - £50-£500 Mine was £180. The inlet manifold is 60mm and the turbo outlet is 54mm OD so a 2.25" kit will just have enough stretch to fit both of those.
Bosch pump lines and injectors - Free-£30-£300 Mine was FREE as it was on the car before hand. The semi ECU pump these have as standard wont like being swapped about You might well want to fit this with a 10mm or 11mm pump as ive already maxed my 9mm pump and im only just hazing on boost.
Gearbox - Free-£100 Mine was £50. You can use a standard DTurbo box (or any BE series box for that matter really) but ive gone for a 306 HDi box as it gives longer ratios that suit this engine better and it does 2000rpm at 60mph on the motorway and at that speed gives over 60mpg.
Exhaust bits - 605 front pipe was £50 and the center section was £25 brand new
Obviously its advisable to do all the service bits when swapping it over plus cam belt, water pump and a clutch and thatll add another £300 to your total.
If you want to do it KrisB french car specialist did mine with me getting in the way alot he can be contacted www.krisb.co.uk and I reckon he'd want all the parts and 2 days labor to do it, maybe a little more as just swapping so much stuff over is time consuming although none of it is particularly difficult.
