This is a thread i started on .net back when i first had the problem, thought it might be useful on here for reference. Will update with progress as and when it happens, should be a bit quicker now i've got a half-decent daily and some spare cash. To begin with, here's the original post, next post will be a summary of other posts in thread with useful info.
Right, my b*****d car won't start, i don't think i've missed anything, but want to double-check before shelling out for a refurbed HP pump. Firstly, some history:
It used to have major issues with cutting out, this was 95% solved with refurbed injectors all round. Recently the car has been having trouble starting, the other day it refused to start at all - it would crank a couple of times, try to catch, then give up and go back to cranking. I changed the HP pump for the one i've rebuilt myself, now it doesn't try and catch at all, just cranks away. Obviously this means my home rebuild attempt has failed miserably (more on this in the relevant thread when i get a mo), more importantly it means i'm still stuck without a car.
What i've checked so far...
1) LP pump primes without needing encouragement from a hammer, pressure seems good, flow steady, no gold filings in filter housing.
2) Filter housing is well sealed, contains a genuine filter.
3) Injectors are all recently refurbished items, injector pipes are done up properly and not leaking.
4) FPR valve has been swapped with a known good item and made no difference.
5) As above for third piston shut-off and FRPS, will be checking voltage output from sensor later today to try and determine rail-pressure at cranking.
6) Cam sensor connection is damaged, but has been like this as long as i've had the car and never been a problem before - have checked it for signs of a poor connection and there are none.
8) Brown relay shows no signs of poor connection, but was replaced anyway for a new, genuine item.
7) ECU connections are fine, not damp/damaged.
8) All earths are fine - good, clean connections.
9) Car has fuel in. <<< For you mooey.
Is there anything else i've missed or could be checking in case? What do these symptoms suggest to you? Cheers.
Any responses including useful information:
Have you stuck a multimeter onto the Pressure Sensor? Do that and when cranking you should see it climb above 1.3v which indicates 300bar. Multimeter shoved into the yellow connector pins 2+3 I think. The tester ends of the meter just slide into the rear of the plug and hold themselves there. If you're seeing pressure then you'll need to find out why the injectors aren't firing. That could be cam or crank sensors - followed by immobiliser. You could then try taking a reading at the injectors to see if you're getting the 80v for them to lift - I've never done this, but this may help:
http://minke.whalesanctuary.co.uk/306/hd...epump.html
My mates did this... when the crank sensor broke... It was so close to starting but just wouldn't.
Code reader said Camshaft position sensor.
Try squeezing the retun line from the pump, will it then try to start?
ECU Plug wiring:
Latest, so far unrecorded progress:
Lift pump was tested, consistently delivers an adequate amount of fuel at good pressure.
Brown relay behind ECU has been replaced.
My ECU was sent off to the ECU doctor to be checked, they informed me the immob chip burnt out and had to be replaced.
I have bought and fitted a new HP pump.
I have bought and fitted a new battery.
None of the above appear to have made a difference at all.
I have done as much diagnostics as i can with the PP2000, it only came up with three codes:
Injector voltage looks fine, however rail pressure doesn't appear to be rising on cranking, so now i'm thinking FRPS, FPR, HP pump or ECU. Shouldn't be any of these as they're all new/have been checked, but i can't think of anything else that could be causing it.
Anyone else got any other theories? Testing is ongoing so am welcoming suggestions.
Right, my b*****d car won't start, i don't think i've missed anything, but want to double-check before shelling out for a refurbed HP pump. Firstly, some history:
It used to have major issues with cutting out, this was 95% solved with refurbed injectors all round. Recently the car has been having trouble starting, the other day it refused to start at all - it would crank a couple of times, try to catch, then give up and go back to cranking. I changed the HP pump for the one i've rebuilt myself, now it doesn't try and catch at all, just cranks away. Obviously this means my home rebuild attempt has failed miserably (more on this in the relevant thread when i get a mo), more importantly it means i'm still stuck without a car.
What i've checked so far...
1) LP pump primes without needing encouragement from a hammer, pressure seems good, flow steady, no gold filings in filter housing.
2) Filter housing is well sealed, contains a genuine filter.
3) Injectors are all recently refurbished items, injector pipes are done up properly and not leaking.
4) FPR valve has been swapped with a known good item and made no difference.
5) As above for third piston shut-off and FRPS, will be checking voltage output from sensor later today to try and determine rail-pressure at cranking.
6) Cam sensor connection is damaged, but has been like this as long as i've had the car and never been a problem before - have checked it for signs of a poor connection and there are none.
8) Brown relay shows no signs of poor connection, but was replaced anyway for a new, genuine item.
7) ECU connections are fine, not damp/damaged.
8) All earths are fine - good, clean connections.
9) Car has fuel in. <<< For you mooey.
Is there anything else i've missed or could be checking in case? What do these symptoms suggest to you? Cheers.
Any responses including useful information:
Have you stuck a multimeter onto the Pressure Sensor? Do that and when cranking you should see it climb above 1.3v which indicates 300bar. Multimeter shoved into the yellow connector pins 2+3 I think. The tester ends of the meter just slide into the rear of the plug and hold themselves there. If you're seeing pressure then you'll need to find out why the injectors aren't firing. That could be cam or crank sensors - followed by immobiliser. You could then try taking a reading at the injectors to see if you're getting the 80v for them to lift - I've never done this, but this may help:
http://minke.whalesanctuary.co.uk/306/hd...epump.html
My mates did this... when the crank sensor broke... It was so close to starting but just wouldn't.
Code reader said Camshaft position sensor.
Try squeezing the retun line from the pump, will it then try to start?
ECU Plug wiring:
Latest, so far unrecorded progress:
Lift pump was tested, consistently delivers an adequate amount of fuel at good pressure.
Brown relay behind ECU has been replaced.
My ECU was sent off to the ECU doctor to be checked, they informed me the immob chip burnt out and had to be replaced.
I have bought and fitted a new HP pump.
I have bought and fitted a new battery.
None of the above appear to have made a difference at all.
I have done as much diagnostics as i can with the PP2000, it only came up with three codes:
- EGR circuit (something i've caused and won't affect starting)
- MAF short/open circuit (see above, loads of people run with a disconnected maf)
- TL4226 (seen this on every HDi i've ever seen on PP2000 lol, it's the secondary pre-heating circuit - helps the car warm up on cold days and doesn't affect starting)
Injector voltage looks fine, however rail pressure doesn't appear to be rising on cranking, so now i'm thinking FRPS, FPR, HP pump or ECU. Shouldn't be any of these as they're all new/have been checked, but i can't think of anything else that could be causing it.
Anyone else got any other theories? Testing is ongoing so am welcoming suggestions.