08-07-2012, 03:30 PM
I assumed as much but just thought I'd best note it's just not about getting clean air through the intake system and generally cleaning up the grotty EGR'd intake etc... but also it improves the engine response quite a large amount in my experience, becoming more noticeable the more you tune 
Unplugging/deactivation at the actuator and simple blanking is best imo, as you can reverse it fairly easily for resale for example, but you'll get 99 -100% of the gains!
De-activation via ECU mapping is also valid but as you have said Poodle, to be sure it's really working 100% then you want to blank it any way, and in doing that AND the unplugging/actuator vacuum blocking, then doing further work to the ECU just seems like a waste of time/money, especially since it means that reverting the EGR system in future (if needed say for future MOT regulations) becomes almost impossible without another re-mapping session, while your quick DIY tweaks can be reverted in 15 mins.
Smoothing the bend is probably a really good idea if you are into modding etc, more so possibly on the HDi110 as the disruption is on the outside of the bend vs the HDi90 where it's on the inside edge...
My only note of warning would be to make sure the surface is super smooth and also that the new material is solidly in place. The last thing you want is for any of your material to end up getting lose and going through the engine!
You can see if the EGR is sticky at idle, just pop the bonnet, foot on accelerator and look over down the side of the EGR plug/EGR actuator, slowly press/depress the throttle a bit around idle and you can see it open/close (clicking slightly as it does so)
If the action looks sticky or laggy then you may have leak-through issues. A good intake clean with some cleaner is probably a good bet generally if the EGR is sticky, then de-activate.
Has anyone used a manifold/intake cleaner on the HDi and had good results? (ie, taken top L bend off afterwards and noted in looking super clean?)
Cheers
Dave
Unplugging/deactivation at the actuator and simple blanking is best imo, as you can reverse it fairly easily for resale for example, but you'll get 99 -100% of the gains!
De-activation via ECU mapping is also valid but as you have said Poodle, to be sure it's really working 100% then you want to blank it any way, and in doing that AND the unplugging/actuator vacuum blocking, then doing further work to the ECU just seems like a waste of time/money, especially since it means that reverting the EGR system in future (if needed say for future MOT regulations) becomes almost impossible without another re-mapping session, while your quick DIY tweaks can be reverted in 15 mins.
Smoothing the bend is probably a really good idea if you are into modding etc, more so possibly on the HDi110 as the disruption is on the outside of the bend vs the HDi90 where it's on the inside edge...
My only note of warning would be to make sure the surface is super smooth and also that the new material is solidly in place. The last thing you want is for any of your material to end up getting lose and going through the engine!
You can see if the EGR is sticky at idle, just pop the bonnet, foot on accelerator and look over down the side of the EGR plug/EGR actuator, slowly press/depress the throttle a bit around idle and you can see it open/close (clicking slightly as it does so)
If the action looks sticky or laggy then you may have leak-through issues. A good intake clean with some cleaner is probably a good bet generally if the EGR is sticky, then de-activate.
Has anyone used a manifold/intake cleaner on the HDi and had good results? (ie, taken top L bend off afterwards and noted in looking super clean?)
Cheers
Dave