06-12-2011, 01:36 PM
Right, my b*****d car won't start, i don't think i've missed anything, but want to double-check before shelling out for a refurbed HP pump. Firstly, some history:
It used to have major issues with cutting out, this was 95% solved with refurbed injectors all round. Recently the car has been having trouble starting, the other day it refused to start at all - it would crank a couple of times, try to catch, then give up and go back to cranking. I changed the HP pump for the one i've rebuilt myself, now it doesn't try and catch at all, just cranks away. Obviously this means my home rebuild attempt has failed miserably (more on this in the relevant thread when i get a mo), more importantly it means i'm still stuck without a car.
What i've checked so far...
1) LP pump primes without needing encouragement from a hammer, pressure seems good, flow steady, no gold filings in filter housing.
2) Filter housing is well sealed, contains a genuine filter.
3) Injectors are all recently refurbished items, injector pipes are done up properly and not leaking. Are not receiving 80v required to fire.
4) FPR valve has been swapped with a known good item and made no difference. Have tried squeezing the return pipe to build pump pressure - still didn't fire.
5) As above for third piston shut-off and FRPS, voltage out put is 1.3-1.5 which indicates at least 300 bar - ie pressure needed to fire.
6) Cam sensor connection is damaged, but has been like this as long as i've had the car and never been a problem before - have checked it for signs of a poor connection and there are none. AC Voltage output is ideal.
8) Brown relay shows no signs of poor connection, but was replaced anyway for a new, genuine item.
7) ECU connections are fine, not damp/damaged, no signs of burning/arcing, no loose pins, no misshapen sockets.
8) All earths are fine - good, clean connections - and there's a good battery on there. Been testing various parts of the loom, it's all fine.
9) Car has DIESEL in. <<< For you mooey.
10) HP fuel pump has been replaced.
11) ECU was tested, first with an ELM327 - either wouldn't read or only gave me odd bits like battery voltage and ambient temp - then with Dum-dum's scangauge - which did exactly the same. New ECU time.
This is the ECU wiring diagram i've been using to test various connections:
Current status: awaiting cash for ECU transplant.
It used to have major issues with cutting out, this was 95% solved with refurbed injectors all round. Recently the car has been having trouble starting, the other day it refused to start at all - it would crank a couple of times, try to catch, then give up and go back to cranking. I changed the HP pump for the one i've rebuilt myself, now it doesn't try and catch at all, just cranks away. Obviously this means my home rebuild attempt has failed miserably (more on this in the relevant thread when i get a mo), more importantly it means i'm still stuck without a car.
What i've checked so far...
1) LP pump primes without needing encouragement from a hammer, pressure seems good, flow steady, no gold filings in filter housing.
2) Filter housing is well sealed, contains a genuine filter.
3) Injectors are all recently refurbished items, injector pipes are done up properly and not leaking. Are not receiving 80v required to fire.
4) FPR valve has been swapped with a known good item and made no difference. Have tried squeezing the return pipe to build pump pressure - still didn't fire.
5) As above for third piston shut-off and FRPS, voltage out put is 1.3-1.5 which indicates at least 300 bar - ie pressure needed to fire.
6) Cam sensor connection is damaged, but has been like this as long as i've had the car and never been a problem before - have checked it for signs of a poor connection and there are none. AC Voltage output is ideal.
8) Brown relay shows no signs of poor connection, but was replaced anyway for a new, genuine item.
7) ECU connections are fine, not damp/damaged, no signs of burning/arcing, no loose pins, no misshapen sockets.
8) All earths are fine - good, clean connections - and there's a good battery on there. Been testing various parts of the loom, it's all fine.
9) Car has DIESEL in. <<< For you mooey.
10) HP fuel pump has been replaced.
11) ECU was tested, first with an ELM327 - either wouldn't read or only gave me odd bits like battery voltage and ambient temp - then with Dum-dum's scangauge - which did exactly the same. New ECU time.
This is the ECU wiring diagram i've been using to test various connections:
Current status: awaiting cash for ECU transplant.