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from the car?Â
Im talking, rear seats, carpets, roof lining, speakers cd player, sound deadening, top and bottom glovebox doors, door cards, pillars..
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Door cards. Some have chopped the passenger side of the dash.
Single skin the bonnet as they're bloody heavy
Chris c is selling pollycarb windows. That will save a fair bit
Then get the hole cutter out and get rid as much as you want inside from the supports
Slim line fans C5 "steelies" as unsprung weight loss is better so go for some 266 or 283 with decent pads or disks
The boot lid is really heavy some some epic weight can be saved there
All I can really think of atm
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Sorry post f*cked up, i wanted to know with the list i put up earlier roughly how much weight is there to loose?
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Oh right. Erm well I don't really know but at an estimate I'd guess 100kgs
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Be doing mine soon, replacing seats and steering wheel too
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what you replacing seats for? . .they look smart, it's not as if you track your car or owt' is it? . .
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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Mattcheese31 Wrote:what you replacing seats for? . .they look smart, it's not as if you track your car or owt' is it? . .
Lol ive already said this to him,
I have a pet hate of f*cking buckets / harness's in road cars, makes you look like such a friggin goof imo!
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lmao!
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If my memory serves me correctly standard front seats are about 25kg each, fixed buckets and side mounts are 7kg and harnesses are lighter than inertia reels so potentially theres 36kg just in the front seats alone.
IIRC the weight of the stuff listed above is about 100kg. Door cards are light though and youd have to make up some covers for the inner door anyway so leave them on.
The carpets and sound deadening are supprisingly heavy. Get a heat gun and a scraper and remove the tar like deadening off the floor under the front seats and youll save a bit.
Spare wheel and rear wiper are good to remove for weight and once youve stripped it strip the wiring loom back of all the unused wires and youll have a few kgs of wire to weigh in and make some money back.
I reckon its possible if you went mad to get 200kg out of the car without cutting away metal.
I did have a list of what stuff weighed but ive lost it. Maybe weigh everything you remove and write a guide.
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I lost 19kg from the carpet alone, surprising how much it all weighs
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And the carpet inevitably holds a feckload of water too... That's a few kilos right there!
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
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Go to the gym....?
TEAM CONROD SHITTING RALLYE!
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Matt Wrote:Go to the gym....?
Have a big shit..........?? that should loose a few KG!
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Matt Wrote:Go to the gym....?
x2
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Why will going to the gym make any difference?! Padge isnt exactly what I would call fat
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Only jokin Also i cant drive a car without a cd player
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dump the aircon and mechanical powersteering pump and the mechanical vac pump
replace the 2 latter with electric pumps, engine responce will improve equivelent to weight saving
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Ye i weigh 10 stone and im 6"1 lol
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Yeh get all the carpet / insulation out, as that wont be missed to much if your not fussed by road noise, and weighs a tonne....
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Also, look into scraping off all of the cars underseal on the floor/wheelarches etc and just painting it instead. Can save upto 20kg by doing that depending on the size of the car/thickness of the underseal.
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That can't save 20kg?! You wouldn't use 20 litres of underseal to do a car would you? I must of used 1 or 2 to do mine
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shotgun your seats if thy are going!
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padge Wrote:Ye i weigh 10 stone and im 6"1 lol
Never met you, fair enough haha only having a joke
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Ben Wrote:That can't save 20kg?! You wouldn't use 20 litres of underseal to do a car would you? I must of used 1 or 2 to do mine
Remember underseal is thicker than water though, so its not 1kg per 1 litre
2.5L of Waxoyl weighs around 4.5kg according to here - Link
And when you scrape the underseal off you'l realise how thick they apply it from factory, probably alot thicker than you did when you did it. Wouldn't surprise me at all if they used 10L doing the whole underside of a car.
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Hairy muff. Didn't think it would be that much heavier. get scraping then everyone!
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Awaits the 'i removed my underseal and now my car has holes in it' threads.
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Or not, because I said you should paint it to protect it and 306's are galvanised anyway
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Dan! Wrote:Or not, because I said you should paint it to protect it and 306's are galvanised anyway
They still rust even if they are galvanised....found my mates ph2 had a nice leaky rear arch last week lol...oops.
But yeah I didn't read that, paint would be ok lol.
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Toms306 Wrote:Dan! Wrote:Or not, because I said you should paint it to protect it and 306's are galvanised anyway
They still rust even if they are galvanised....found my mates ph2 had a nice leaky rear arch last week lol...oops.
But yeah I didn't read that, paint would be ok lol. those leaky rear arces are the exception to a 306 rusting, and sometimes the engine mount cradle lol
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No Peugeots are Galvanized for the record... I was someone who believed they are...
They are Zinc Phorescent dipped - that's why they don't rust that badly...
But 306s usually rust in the upper rear arches and just behind the front wheels... If you find the zinc dip hang points, follow the chassis round there, that's where they always fail, just underneath there, but they're usually covered in underseal/plastic/mud/crap so no one ever notices it.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
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