Replacing handbrake cables

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Guide: Replacing handbrake cables
#1
Common signs of old stretched or failing handbrake cables are lots of travel in the handbrake with little effect or a very stiff handbrake. Replacing the cables is easy and not too expensive and makes a huge difference!

I bought my new cables from ECP for the grand price of £24 for both. If your lucky, original Peugeot ones pop up on ebay from time to time for about the same price. id recommend getting these. There is a big difference between genuine and pattern!
Bear in mind when ordering, disc cables are different to drum ones so make sure you order the correct ones.

Step 1
Jack up the rear of the car, support safely and remove wheels

   

Step 2
Inside the car, let the handbrake off (make sure the front wheels are chocked and in gear) and remove the centre console around it. There are two T20 torx screws under the rear ashtray and 2 10mm nuts under the gear stick cover. Remove and lift up the flap of carpet at the rear of the handbrake to reveal

   

Undo the 13mm nut all the way, remove the nut and washer and pull the bar off of the threaded bar. Once you have done that, remove the two cable ends from the bar.

   

Tie some string to your first handbrake cable, leave some slack and tie the other end to something in the car.

Step 3.
Under the car, there is several clips holding the cable onto the underside. Remove the cable from these so its dangling then go to the calliper.

   

Remove the cable from the pivoting arm on the calliper and then use a screwdriver or chisel to smash the cable housing out of the calliper. This can be a bit of a bastard to do! Pull the cable and it should come out the car relatively easy.

Step 4
Once removed, untie the string and tie your new one on. Pull the cable through and into the car. Give it a good tug and you should feel the cable housing seat where it should on the body of the car. Fit it to the clips under the car (might need some cable ties to secure it. My new cables were slightly thinner than the old ones)

Step 5
Cover the cable housing end at the calliper end in copper slip (should ease removal again if its ever needed) and push into the calliper. Hook up cable end to pivot arm

   

Step 6
Do the same for the other side. Now you have 2 new cables on the car, refit the metal bar and slide it over the threaded stud. Do it up until you feel some slight tension in the cables and then lift the handbrake. You may feel a few bits click and move and the handbrake may suddenly go slack. This is just the housing seating properly. Drop the handbrake and retighten. ideally you want the handbrake to come on hard after 3 clicks
so adjust it to suit.

Step 7
put everything back together, drop the car back down then go to mcdonnalds and try some handbrake turns!

Note
The cables will stretch over the next few weeks of use. Use the car for a few weeks then you will more than likely have to adjust the handbrake again. This is completely normal so dont worry about having dodgy cables!
Team Eaton


1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
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#2
(16-08-2013, 12:00 PM)Niall Wrote: Step 7
put everything back together, drop the car back down then go to mcdonnalds and try some handbrake turns!


my favourite part Big Grin
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#3
Is there a way of simply tightening the cable to improve the handbrakes efficiency?
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#4
(04-01-2014, 09:33 PM)Whodafunk Wrote: Is there a way of simply tightening the cable to improve the handbrakes efficiency?

Tighten the 13mm nut shown in picture 2
[Image: 00000000-0000-0000-0000-00000000014E_zpsprynorkl.jpg]
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#5
Good guide. No doubt it will be useful in the future.

With new cables you get one good handbrake turn and then its screwed haha.
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#6
bump so i dont have to look for hours tomorrow!
Given the choice between Niall and the sheep. I would choose the sheep!
/Toseland
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#7
Cut ends off with angle grinder, shame out of the caliper, fit new ones and run into the car.
#2 Moonstone Blue HDI
[Image: 6b0c7309-5184-463c-9f73-2a7b96601418_zpsfdf041fe.jpg]
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#8
(05-01-2014, 01:53 PM)Eeyore Wrote: Good guide. No doubt it will be useful in the future.

With new cables you get one good handbrake turn and then its screwed haha.

Ill be following this guide on the rallye as i snapped the cables when viewing it lol
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#9
What kind of string did you use? Tried this with a fishing line today, and it snapped. To many sharp edges I guess.
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#10
Just normal string should do it. The white stuff. Not the green garden stuff that splits
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#11
just done this today on phase 1 Dturbo with drums, didn't find a need for the string at all, so Niall you owe me 99p! Big Grin heat shield needed couple of plastic screws removing to facilitate access on passenger side but all pretty easy really, only slight bastard as always is slackening off the drum self adjuster through the wheel bolt hole to remove the drum, can be fiddly, especially if you've never done it before (i have) . . . . . as said for the calliper version above, when fitting the new cables connect the cable at the wheel end first, grab hold with pliers inside the car to pull it tight if need be . . .

have fun, i now have a 3 click handbrake, if you have drums, before you put the drums back on, adjust the shoes so it's tight enough for you to have to gently kick the drums back on when refitting, will be pretty well adjusted without having to poke the screwdriver in the bolt hole to tighten . . . . Smile
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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#12
I even angle ground (carefully) the slight lip on the rear drum, fitted two new rear cables, put the back end on axle stands and equalised the cables, fitted "New adjusters, springs, retaining pin kit cylinders  (oem) on my girlings  crept up the adjusters  till drums were a tight fit but still its about 8-10 clicks, In fact the only cable i didnt do is from the lever to the back, and just for good measure the plastic retention clip on the main cable was present and in use...what have i done wrong?
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#13
You didn't do up the adjuster on the back of the actual handbrake? There's your problem then, unless I've read it wrong Smile
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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#14
Do I have to adjust the nut on the handbrake lever cable at the lever end? I havent even looked (or considered)  that?
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#15
(11-10-2016, 06:19 PM)unclebeast Wrote: Do I have to adjust the nut on the handbrake lever cable at the lever end? I havent even looked (or considered)  that?
yes mate, you should have slackened it before removing drums Big Grin lol
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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#16
How do I resolve this properly?
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#17
(12-10-2016, 09:34 AM)unclebeast Wrote: How do I resolve this properly?

all the info is in this guide matey, just tighten that adjuster bolt up so that the cables go slightly taught with the handbrake off, apply the hand brake, adjust to suit Smile
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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