So, hopefully someone can help me, it's kinda urgent as I'm running out of temp insurance for the retest now.
Bought the above car to fix and sell, so far it's been easy fixes, however it failed MOT today.
1. Emissions not tested - engine fan won't come on so temp was rising.
Fan spins up with a direct 12v but I can't get it to work on the car. Doesn't even come on with the AC though the AC still works fine (odd I know!). Checked fuses and relay, both good (swapped for others as well). Any idea where the temp sensor is on the 1.4? Also is it only one sensor on these as the gauge reads perfectly.
2. Rear brake imbalance - I f*cking hate drum brakes. They always cause me issues! Anyone know how easy these ones are to strip down? Are they bolted or are they the horrible interference bearing style like 306 ones?
Oh and I really need to fix this tonight or early tomorrow morning if possible! (Ideally no hammering ).
Tom do not take the temperature reading on the dash as gospel. Modern cars do not have live gauges like older cars do and will only swing above "normal" when it all really starts to go wrong.
Ive never worked on a MK6 so can't really offer too much advice other than check all connections, check earths and see if you can get a pin out diagram for the car. I assume the fans will probably be controlled by the ECU. The chances of the ECU not doing its job is very slim unless its not getting a correct input.
Team Eaton
1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
27-07-2015, 06:02 PM (This post was last modified: 27-07-2015, 06:05 PM by Toms306.)
Lol, thanks.
Also, does anyone know what the small cylinder thing at the bottom of the fan cowling? Some sort of resistor or fuse or something? Will that be causing issues whatever it is?
True Niall, its a digital guage anyway lol, but it does move into 'overheat' position so should bring Tue fan on at that surely.
I left ky handheld reader in the focus at the garage but will test temp with that when I bring it home.
27-07-2015, 06:21 PM (This post was last modified: 27-07-2015, 06:28 PM by procta.)
fan side of things will be a faulty sensor, as the ecu might not be getting a proper reading, even though you gauge sensor is working,
As for rear drums, you wouldn't need to mess about with rear bearings, as that will just come off with the hub I would have thought, when you remove the drum, but you might just need to adjust them, as they do need adjustments now and again.
My dad has said, get the arse end jacked up and get a mate to put his foot on the brake, while he has his foot on the brake, see if you can turn the rear wheel. If you can, then adjust it, and do the same on the other side. If that fails, then you will need to put new shoes in.
The drums are supposed to come off with the hub as one, there will be 4 bolts from behind and a bit of levering, hammering and they'll come out, but no one usually does that and just takes the hub nuts off and do it that way, if you want to me the reg I'll get you the hub nut torque setting, not 100% sure but 270nm sounds familiar lol
306oc Chat Wrote:15:30: Toms306 - :Genuinely thought it was gonna explode when I was playing with Sam
22:57: SRowell - :wtf why didnt you try harder to make me come!
found this on a ford site,
There are 2 relays both passing through fuse number 4 in the engine bay fuse box. 40 amp.
The fan is switched on by the engine control module from the signal sent by the coolant temperature SENSOR (CTS). Unless the ECM gets the correct reading then the fan will not be switched on. So plug it in to a diagnostic tool and see what reading the ECM is seeing. The tool should also be able to run the fan at slow and fast speed to check both relays and the circuits.
(27-07-2015, 08:36 PM)C2K Wrote: Run a temp 12v from the battery to fan to earth for the sake of the MOT test. The fan not working is not a fail, just your tester is being cautious.
That's not a bad idea actually! Still want it sorted properly though.
Yeah, seems like a plan. I'm stumped by what else to try for the fan though, sensor was my last hope lol...
This is what's bottom corner of the fan cowling btw, seems it is a resistor (a damn expensive one!), is that likely to have failed and stop the fan? Would think it should still work on full though or have I got the wrong end of the stick here?