Bosch pump issue!

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Bosch pump issue!
#1
So did a bosch pump conversion today and it all seems okay except it won't start... It turns over fine and so on but it won't fire into life, could it to be to do with this plug or can it be something else? 

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#2
Have you run a wire to the stop solenoid?
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#3
Have you cracked off the lines at the injectors and cranked it over until fuel comes out?
Doesnt even own a 306.
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#4
[attachment=22409]

Is that the wire for the stop solenoid? 

Right so think I know what's wrong. On that spare plug I need to put the red wire to the stop solenoid. So should I put a ring connector on the wire and bolt it down with the wire going to the stop solenoid already?
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#5
Yes that's it. Just check it is an ignition live.
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#6
Yep, should be fine if you do that!
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#7
Tried it with the red wire but no luck just started melting the wire, is it worth checking different wires? 
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#8
Not sure of colours I'm afraid, it needs to be an ignition live as Bash says though. So check which one only gets 12v with the ignition on.
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#9
(27-03-2015, 07:29 PM)Toms306 Wrote: Not sure of colours I'm afraid, it needs to be an ignition live as Bash says though.  So check which one only gets 12v with the ignition on.

Cool I'll have to see if I have a multi meter, don't think I do 
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#10
If no meter use a bit of spare wire and a bulb, earth the screw part and touch each wire on the base, it'll light if theres voltage there.
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#11
(27-03-2015, 07:34 PM)Toms306 Wrote: If no meter use a bit of spare wire and a bulb, earth the screw part and touch each wire on the base, it'll light if theres voltage there.

I'll have to give it a go, could I just try the rest of the wires or will that cause issues?
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#12
Well if you get a permanent live the engine wont stop when you turn the key off...so could be an issue there lol. Although obviously you could stall it. I'm not sure what all 4 wires are for (that was the immobiliser wiring for the Lucas) so I don't know if you're at risk of melting anything inside.
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#13
(27-03-2015, 08:04 PM)Toms306 Wrote: Well if you get a permanent live the engine wont stop when you turn the key off...so could be an issue there lol.  Although obviously you could stall it.  I'm not sure what all 4 wires are for (that was the immobiliser wiring for the Lucas) so I don't know if you're at risk of melting anything inside.

So I need an ignition live that stays live for a minute after the ignition is turned off 
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#14
No, sorry, maybe I confused that, you just want one that comes on and goes off with the ignition. And one that's fat enough for the job, I guess the one you tried was quite thin if it melted.

The solenoid basically just allows fuel to flow when the ignition's on and stops it immediately when you switch off.
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#15
(27-03-2015, 08:19 PM)Toms306 Wrote: No, sorry, maybe I confused that, you just want one that comes on and goes off with the ignition.  And one that's fat enough for the job, I guess the one you tried was quite thin if it melted.

The solenoid basically just allows fuel to flow when the ignition's on and stops it immediately when you switch off.

But they're all thin wires that are on that plug 
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#16
Are some not thinner than others? I'd imagine there's a perm live and ignition live which will be thicker than the 'remote' or whatever it's called in this case. Been so long since I saw an XUD Bosch'd I really cant remember where the ignition live was taken from. Where are all the XUD boys tonight lol!
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#17
As far as I'm aware 1 of those wires on that spare plug is ignition live, I just need to find it :/ 
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#18
Get on with it then, you won't find it on here. lol
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#19
(27-03-2015, 08:37 PM)Toms306 Wrote: Get on with it then, you won't find it on here. lol

Haha I will in the morning, question though, that plug is useless now so I might as well cut it off and tape the cables up right? 
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#20
Can do if you want. I'd probably leave it just in case I wanted to stick the Lucas back on but I don't like committing to something without the option of going back. lol
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#21
(27-03-2015, 09:07 PM)Toms306 Wrote: Can do if you want.  I'd probably leave it just in case I wanted to stick the Lucas back on but I don't like committing to something without the option of going back. lol

Haha screw going back to Lucas, if I needed to I could just redo the plug Smile 
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#22
Personally leave the plug on.. It saves the falling off and shorting something. As far as i can remember its the red wire on one of the plugs (some had 2 plugs) as said test it first though then put a ring connector on it and bash it on.

Obviously put ignition on to check for live, turn ign off then it shouldn't be live.. Cant get simpler than that lol
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#23
(27-03-2015, 09:14 PM)Seb_Ryan Wrote: Personally leave the plug on.. It saves the falling off and shorting something. As far as i can remember its the red wire on one of the plugs (some had 2 plugs) as said test it first though then put a ring connector on it and bash it on.

Obviously put ignition on to check for live, turn ign off then it shouldn't be live.. Cant get simpler than that lol

Tried the red wire and when trying to start it just started melting the wire 
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#24
With nothing plugged in?
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#25
(27-03-2015, 09:56 PM)Seb_Ryan Wrote: With nothing plugged in?

The red wire was melting when I had it to the stop solenoid 
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#26
Just use a multimeter.

simples
Wishes for more power...
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#27
(27-03-2015, 11:00 PM)Piggy Wrote: Just use a multimeter.

simples

Yeah I'll see if any of my neighbours have one 
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#28
No wire should melt on the solenoid , correct wire or not, direct to the battery wouldn't melt it, so you either have a bad solenoid, or your connection is to big and touching the pump casing / solenoid casing somewhere... It should be the red wire, the fact it's mekting confirms its the right wire as it's live and unfused
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#29
(28-03-2015, 07:23 AM)darrenjlobb Wrote: No wire should melt on the solenoid , correct wire or not, direct to the battery wouldn't melt it, so you either have a bad solenoid, or your connection is to big and touching the pump casing / solenoid casing somewhere... It should be the red wire, the fact it's mekting confirms its the right wire as it's live and unfused

Hmm should I try it again with a better ring connector? The red wire is too short to reach the solenoid so I'm using an additional piece of wire to reach it, is that the way to do it? 

Does anyone have a picture of how there's is done?
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#30
If you're having potential issues with the solenoid, I'd check it's working first:

Get a length of wire, bare back both ends and twist one end round the post on the solenoid, then the other to the +ve terminal of the battery.

It shouldn't melt, I've lashed it up with speaker wire before to get a car home and it didn't melt.

The car should now run but won't turn off unless you remove the wire/use the stop lever on the pump. That rules out the solenoid.

Then get the red wire from that plug, extend it with a bit of wire (that's how most do it, twist and tape works but it really needs to be soldered/crimped) and put it to the solenoid with a decent ring connector.

It's worth checking you have the right wire by either using a light bulb as suggested or a multimeter (It's well worth buying one anyway if you can)

I'd post a picture of mine but I've rebuilt my loom so it'd just confuse things further.
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