darrenjlobb's Rolling Road Chassis Dyno Project

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darrenjlobb's Rolling Road Chassis Dyno Project
#61
ouch! going to need new springs up front then!
need a part number? http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com/ and http://service.citroen.com/ will sort you out.
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#62
Not sure weight matters so much when you fit a cummins surely?!
When a cummins is normally in a 5tonne truck and its going into a 2tonne disco!
Wishes for more power...
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#63
Great progress here pal. Going to need to get yourself some decent cooling fans too!!! In fact I have a massive 3ph extractor fan which your welcome to for postage costs. I'll get a pic up tomorrow.
Also I can see where some supercharged fine tuning can take place next year Big Grin
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#64
Bloody thing isn't even assembled yet and everyone is booking their time slot lol
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#65
(05-11-2014, 05:47 PM)Piggy Wrote: Not sure weight matters so much when you fit a cummins surely?!
When a cummins is normally in a 5tonne truck and its going into a 2tonne disco!

It's going in a 90!
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#66
Oh sorry, confused myself...

Thats even more awesome!!

In fact I saw this done at Landrover Festival this year!!
Lifted suspension, custom cage, proper machine...
Will try and find the pics and video of it running...sounded like hell in a barrell!
Wishes for more power...
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#67
they do this quite often tbh in the landy world..

there are some smaller cummins engines that work well.,

and i present to you... thus..

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/doing-i...75358.html
Given the choice between Niall and the sheep. I would choose the sheep!
/Toseland
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#68
(05-11-2014, 07:16 PM)londondan86 Wrote: Great progress here pal. Going to need to get yourself some decent cooling fans too!!! In fact I have a massive 3ph extractor fan which your welcome to for postage costs. I'll get a pic up tomorrow.
Also I can see where some supercharged fine tuning can take place next year Big Grin

Would be interested in that chap, let me know the details....I have already sorted a big blower for in front the car, but another wouldnt do any harm, also needing exhaust extraction although given the very short distance it has to go to get outside, im tempted by a tube straight out the wall with way of sealing to the exhaust, but an extractor would be better.
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#69
(06-11-2014, 12:44 AM)toseland Wrote: they do this quite often tbh in the landy world..

there are some smaller cummins engines that work well.,

and i present to you... thus..

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/doing-i...75358.html

God I want one now Smile
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#70
Pm'd Darren. It's a propper extractor with full housing. I'll get some pics tomorrow as I said Smile
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#71
Cheers mate really appreciate it.
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[Image: sigi-2.png]
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#72
This is the beast!

[attachment=19945]

[attachment=19946]

[attachment=19947]
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#73
Ah, thanks chap, that may well work well for an exhaust extractor. Will be in touch via PM again.
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#74
Mini update,

Got a load of parts together, various bearings, springs, spring cups, rubber bellows and ceramic faces:

[Image: qbHlBhynCGYNpKcazUrdw6iGo4_fw4u1eANj4-rL...16-h987-no]

Got the center cartridges back together today.

Started by fitting new bearings to the main shaft to test before packing with grease:

[Image: IMG_20141113_115905.jpg]

But after fitting found the new bearings I had were to wide on the shoulder, and meant the shaft didnt protrude quite the same which would have caused issues with rotor / stator clearance down the line.

To tore it apart again and raided the local bearing store for some, and finally found exactly what I was after:

[Image: 1QG-7svo2ATNw_Ou2MWjl0lhU_PudkBupZSoq648...40-h987-no]

So packed the tube with grease and fitted the shaft / locking collar, and then began work on the ceramic seal. After my international search I gave up trying to find a replacement, so went about changing it to accept a modern seal. which has involved basically using loads of parts from different seals (hence so many boxs) to make one that works, along with machining down the oem collar.

First step is to fit the stationary ring in the housing:

[Image: IMG_20141113_122137.jpg]

And then fit the bellows, mating face, spring, seat and modified collar:

[Image: IMG_20141113_122543.jpg]

And the two center cartridges all together / ready to accept the statr housings, which I'm still working on:

[Image: IMG_20141113_171245.jpg]
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#75
Good progress mate. Well done Smile

How did the electrolysis work out in the end, was intreaged in the last vid?
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#76
Interesting stuff, shame I didn't see this sooner as two of our machines in work have rotary ceramic seals. I could find the company that repaired them if needed? Top work btw :-)
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#77
Good progress mate Smile
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#78
Dug a hole in the workshop the other evening, just slightly bigger than the frame of the dyno, to allow to bolt it down / route some pipes in front of it. Dug by hand etc but had kango for the concrete, although typically we ran into a bloody foundation underneath!

The hole appearing:

[Image: IMG_20141117_192901.jpg]

[Image: IMG_20141117_204137.jpg]

And then this evening I have shuttered up a level area and mixed / poured concrete in it. Bit tricky with the workshop levels being all to cock, but luckily when we built the pit, we built it level, so I am putting the dyno in level in front of it, and square to the pit, so cars should track correctly, but will obviously look a bit "wrong" to the levels in the workshop as it wont be quite the same, but its important its level!

[Image: IMG_20141118_160834.jpg]

Will let it set off for few days and then remove shutters / fill the edges up, and then ready to start building the frame in the hole. Due to the weight of the thing fully assembled, we are going to have to build it in the hole, as we have no means of getting over the hole with tractor and loader, and theres no chance we are dropping it in by hand, these things are severely heavy!!

Progress may slow for few weeks as have just pulled the tdi out landrover and nearly ready to drop a cummins in:

300TDI motor swinging:

[Image: IMG_20141116_140830.jpg]

Sat next to the cummins, which is now attached to box and transfer box:

[Image: IMG_20141116_155652.jpg]

I think the blower says it all really Tongue 2.5 4 cylinder vs 5.9 6 banger Smile
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#79
That's heroic....
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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#80
That Landy is going to be properly epic once thats shoe horned in there!
Team Eaton


1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
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#81
Good work Darren its all coming to shape . way is the make of that blower on the 5.9 it looks class :-)
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#82
Good to see some progress mate!! Where is the pit going to be in relation to the dyno? May want to set some anchor points to strap the cars down!!!

Is there a project thread coming for the landy??
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#83
The cummins has a HX35 on it, standard turbo, sadly it wont be getting tuned that hard, its not mine, a friends, but without putting mega bucks into axles etc it simply wont take much power, so its just getting a light tune on standard blower, either way, it will sound fantastic, and everyone loves a cummins Smile

Anyway back on topic,

The pit is behind the rollers, so fwd cars will be over the pit while on the dyno, and RWD not, idea being 99% of cars I do will be FWD, so that means they are fully inside / doors can stay closed when im working in the evenings / cold, as for RWD the nose will need to stick outside....

I will be mounting TWO larch anchors with straps preventing the car from pulling fowards, and also a left / right strap system at the front possibly to prevent sideways movement I think....
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#84
Wow, this progressed pretty rapidly. Can't be far off now then eh?
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#85
Still quite a bit to do yet.... need to re assemble the frames, drop rollers back in, fix to floor, re assemble roller brake for loading, and then re assemble both water brakes (waiting on some small parts), then temporary rig up the old analog dials to see if the thing will work, and if so, order up some new load cells / data AQ stuff. oh and weld up some tie down points / design a pull down system to sit between the rollers im thinking...
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#86
Getting there...
Nice work matey
Wishes for more power...
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#87
Looking good mate as always.

I do love the cummins lump, its got a beautiful shape to it.
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#88
(18-11-2014, 07:37 PM)darrenjlobb Wrote: The cummins has a HX35 on it, standard turbo, sadly it wont be getting tuned that hard, its not mine, a friends, but without putting mega bucks into axles etc it simply wont take much power, so its just getting a light tune on standard blower, either way, it will sound fantastic, and everyone loves a cummins Smile

Anyway back on topic,

The pit is behind the rollers, so fwd cars will be over the pit while on the dyno, and RWD not, idea being 99% of cars I do will be FWD, so that means they are fully inside / doors can stay closed when im working in the evenings / cold, as for RWD the nose will need to stick outside purely to prevent sideways movement....

I will be mounting TWO larch anchors with straps preventing the car from pulling fowards, and also a left / right strap system at the front possibly to prevent sideways movement I think....


ratchet strap across the roof!!! thatll do it lol

on a more serious note, in chatting with the guy near me.. he has 2 sets of ratcheting points, one left and right of the car, meaning the actual straps will attach to the front towing eye and be about 30degrees to the front of the car

he also has 2 heavy duty unistrut sections (galvanized steel) bolted into a small recess in the floor that he can use to tie the car down with on either side of the car.. he also has some bolt in anchor points for said unistrut

he mentioned that the handbrake in most cases is more than enough to keep the car still forward and back (unless its a suzuki one of course) and that he only anchors the wheels in the cases of some of his lighter, higher performance rally cars..

he didnt move mine when he had it on the rollers, handbrake and left and right straps to stop it swaying back and forward and it was good.
Given the choice between Niall and the sheep. I would choose the sheep!
/Toseland
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#89
That or strap it to ya tractor darren! Haha!
Wishes for more power...
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#90
Most dynos have tie down loops actually under the car, these work really well with the 306's chassis tie down loops.
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