TU engines = pile of crap

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TU engines = pile of crap
#1
I know this is the wrong section but i'm short on time and need a quick answer, figured it'll get noticed faster here. Mods please feel free to move this when i'm done, thanks.

As the title implies, i'm about to do a head gasket on a TU engine (1.4i) and am wondering if i should use a little sealant on the block face?
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#2
I didn't on mine. Just cleaned it off!
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#3
I'd use sealant to be safe. But just IMO
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#4
I hope you two will forgive me if i wait for someone with a bit more experience, no offence. Wink
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#5
That's fine haha! No worries.
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#6
Poodle Wrote:I hope you two will forgive me if i wait for someone with a bit more experience, no offence. Wink

You've seen my experience! I have none what so ever! So no offence taken. I just repeat what others say Tongue
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#7
As long as you got a decent make of gasket and block has been cleaned up and the head skimmed then don't bother bud, just it torqued up in the stages correctly, new head bolts as well as they are stretch bolts
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#8
Ah that's probably a yes in my case then lol. Might help if i explain a bit more detail:

Engine has done over 100k, the owner only wants it to keep running for a couple more years, she can't afford much. My total budget for a full service and head gasket change comes to a mighty £250, which is meant to include my time, but at this rate i'll be lucky to get £5/h... :S The head hasn't been skimmed, i've cleaned it and the block myself, the gasket is "payern" ie generic motor factors £20 (trade) jobby. Would you say new stretch bolts are absolutely necessary or could i get away with the old ones if it only needs to last a couple of years..?
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
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#9
Thing is doing that it may well last a year but it may well last a day! Head bolts ain't that much skim probably about 40 with a pressure test thing is if there is a slight warp and we are on talking a few thou then it may well just pop again
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#10
Never use sealant on OEM gaskets....If you need to, then somethings not flat enough..

Get the head skimmed if its not nice clean and flat, and sand the deck clean.

Torque it down and drash on Smile
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#11
Ok will look into getting it skimmed then, will need a repair gasket too... pfff that's me down to £4/h lol. :roll:

Cheers for the help guys, appreciate it.
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
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#12
Got head skimmed, cleaned block, nice new repair gasket and stretch bolts, flushed the coolant and oil systems, filled with fluids, reassembled, started her up and.....













She hit 120 in under 5 minutes... :angry-banghead:
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
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#13
You sure its the gasket? Not the 'stat or something?
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#14
Top pipe's getting hot, water seems to be flowing through the rad ok. Will be poking it lots in a bit to try and work out what the hell the problem is, seriously pissed off with it, decided i don't like 1.4s...

Edited out of embarrassment!
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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#15
Poodle Wrote:Top pipe's getting hot, water seems to be flowing through the rad ok. Will be poking it lots in a bit to try and work out what the hell the problem is, seriously pissed off with it, who the f*ck wants a 1.4 anyway.

Hmm not sure then......unless theres a crack somewhere, but you'd have noticed that when you had the head off!

Also, the 1.4 is a good engine........for insurance purposes!! Tongue
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#16
Sure you havent cracked the block / head?

Is it just getting hot? Or is it pressurizing the hell out of the coolant?
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#17
For future reference - don't bother with a repair gasket, it'll be fine with a normal one for just a light skim. No sealant. You can re-use the bolts if they're within the length specs, but it's a good idea to just stick some new ones in if the budget stretches.

Anyway, you have bled all the air out of all 3 valves right? Fitted the correct inlet manifold gaskets if it's one of the early engines that has water flowing through it?
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#18
any engine with an alloy head thats overheated MUST be pressure tested for cracks, the skim is the final part of the engineering firms job.

dont re-use stretch bolts unless manufacturer allows it, some manus. say that you dab a certain coloured paint to show they have been used once only--------but not all garages are aware of this !! play safe and renew stretch bolts every time (i have snapped a ford cvh and a 1400 renault bolt so i wont be fking up for a 3rd time) no matter if your customer says they are skint !!!

dont use sealant, it was common In the previous millenium to use hylomar gasket sealant, but technology has moved on since then.

as advised already, make sure you bleed system---HEATER MUST BE PUT INTO THE HOT POSITION AS WELL, this gets more water circulating through haeter matrix.
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#19
Cheers for all the advice and support guys. After having it half to bits again I eventually worked out it was just an epic air lock in the coolant, kept thinking it was clear then the temp would suddenly shoot up again. Took about an hour to bleed it all out in the end, least it was a simple fix.

Could have done with knowing that before i spent £30 on a repair gasket when i already had a normal one lol, teach me to do my research properly next time. :roll: That combined with the simple fix and i'm feeling a bit of a twit. Never mind, will know next time, cheers again.
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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