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This question is always asked I know but anyone tried this clutch?:
http://www.larkspeed.com/index.pl?p=DT963TD7683&a=i#
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(03-06-2014, 04:17 PM)Razorback_Rob Wrote: This question is always asked I know but anyone tried this clutch?:
http://www.larkspeed.com/index.pl?p=DT963TD7683&a=i#
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No, but i was looking at it a little while back and when i contatced them they couldn't give me any power/torque figures that it was rated to.
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03-06-2014, 04:29 PM
(This post was last modified: 03-06-2014, 05:15 PM by Razorback_Rob.)
Ah that doesn't sound over promising just says "over 200nm"
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Stage one is over 200 isnt it? Let alone stage 2
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(03-06-2014, 04:35 PM)PE02KHG Wrote: Stage one is over 200 isnt it? Let alone stage 2
My bad reading something else this one states handling a 25-40% horsepower/torque increase.
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Again, on paper that's Stage 1 levels...
1990 Peugeot 205 GTi 1.9 // 1991 Peugeot 205 GTi 1.9 16v // 1992 Peugeot 205 GTi 1.9 // 1999 Peugeot 306 HDi Estate
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25-40% is still only 200-220. Unfortunately the answer is always going to be the same, they will hold but for an unknown amount of time, maybe a day maybe a year. Tbh i would have more confidence in a standard unit over something from ebay that isnt a big brand.
Alot of people using cg with good results, a few using helix with no complaints (me included) and a few using standard 306 or birlingo with good results.
I went helix as they were the only one to give me straight answers and id rather go over kill and fit and forget it. Expensive but worth it so far.
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did you already buy a clutch?
i´m also looking for a new one (slips at stage 1)
think i´m going to use the cg paddle
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There's been a lot of problems cropping up with cg paddle clutches, the latest issue is the friction material wears out in about 2000 miles. IIrc there's a few examples from various people in Piggy's project thread.
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(30-07-2014, 05:32 AM)Poodle Wrote: There's been a lot of problems cropping up with cg paddle clutches, the latest issue is the friction material wears out in about 2000 miles. IIrc there's a few examples from various people in Piggy's project thread.
damn i heard about snapping springs but this nightmare is new to me
helix is too expensive for me. i really don´t want to fit a orig. clutch cause my last one slipped a few times. think i´m going to sell my car (90bhp is slow and doesn´t have aircon )
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A new OE clutch won't slip with a stage 1...
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(30-07-2014, 09:18 AM)Toms306 Wrote: A new OE clutch won't slip with a stage 1...
seconded, as I've just done this. New LUK and stage 1 shortly after.
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convinced... just ordered a sachs kit
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Agreed, i was running a guesstimated 140bhp and 250lbft on a 130,000 mile oem valeo clutch with no issues, abused the hell out of it too lol.
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02-08-2014, 09:15 AM
Slam Wagon mentioned Berlingo clutch?, I take it that's the van variant and not reverse pull, what sort of power will these tolerate?, my clutch does need changing and I have no issues with doing the job but can't afford helix and don't want to be doing the job twice.
Am currently running std hdi90 engine with blanked egr, fmic and cat removed, going for stage 2 map next
Any input will be helpful
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Is the berlingo one just a straight swap? I've been looking at the Sachs kit!
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Lots of people have said the berlingo clutch is better, but nobody who's used one has ever provided figures and/or any sort of longevity testing, not that i remember seeing anyway.
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I'm putting my Berlingo clutch in, in 2 weeks with a stage 2+ map so il tell you how it goes.
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Youd need to remember about this thread in a years time and have a dyno test done for the info to be conclusive
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im running a stage 2 map, done 10k on a standard clutch (original only on 55k now) and it only slips if driven like a bell end. if you no how to drive it right and don't just dump all the torque on in 1 go its fine, also the way dave mapped it has sort of smoothed out the torque delivery..
on my previous 306 (it was mapped so all the torque came at once) I replaced with a standard oe item, didn't last. got a CG clutch, it collapsed within 2 weeks. Then I got a helix and it was the dogs bollocks. id be confidant going past stage 2 on it no problems.
may be a big outlay at first but clutch changes aren't the easiest things in the world so I prefer only doing it once if it can be helped so when I need a new one I wont hesitate with the helix, even if I need to save a little longer.
That's my 10 peneth anyway
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its reviews like that that made me get a helix, had in it for over 5k now and its been solid as a rock so far.
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Helix is the best, and black diamond is really good too. We had two CG clutches, on our 1.4 hdi engine with only 90 BHP the paddle clutch wore down to the rivets after less than 3000 miles and ruined the flywheel. On the 2.0 with a dual friction plate we found it would still slip until warmed up, which isn't too bad but not really ideal for road use.
The organic material helix and black diamond use has a much smoother bite, although it does take a lot of bedding in.
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got stuck... How do i get the automatic clutch cable to full size, pull? Press? Where? How?
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Er, whut? If you're talking about the auto-adjust, just stamp on the pedal and slip your foot off it sideways so it bounces up, do that a few times and it should unseize.
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sry i meant shrink it to get the black plug on the gearbox.
there is sth like a spring at the end of the bigger section which you have to press and then push the cable together and hold it like that
It was the most difficult part for me
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I think I get what you're on about, still not 100%. You just have to push the tabs and lift it out, it takes a finger and thumb and about 3 seconds...
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