HDI Sticking front brake help..

[Mattinthehat]

Hi guys i had a look but could'nt see anything in the forum relating to my issue so here goes....

I have a 2000 2.0 diesel HDI that failed MOT on front pads and disks so bought pads and disks, fitted pads and disks ok - no problem - however - the driver side fist (?) caliper pistons move well, the passenger side piston on the top works well but bottom one appears to have seized, i managed to tap it toward the disk with a hammer and it moved so i could get the caliper back on but it wont come back out, tried some gentle persuasion with a screwdriver and a hammer but no joy it just won't budge, now i noticed its adjustable so...

..do i try to slaken it off in the hope it will pop out or are they quite precise and I may risk doing further harm

...do i have to pull back the rubber cover and give it a greasing - bearing in mind that its pushed right up to the caliper body and there aint much room to get the rubber off...

..do i bang the crap out of it?

Im no mechanic by any stretch of the imagination but im not daft either, so laymans terms please!

Someone please help i have my retest Friday!

Cheers

[pug306driver]

can you put up some pics as our hdi has bosch single piston slide calipers.........

get some g clamps and some wood spacers.......make sure the "free" moving piston is notr allowed to come out while you concentrsate on the stiff stuck one.

use wood to protedt the capile etc and a g clamp to push the free puiston fully home and clamp it there.

use similar to move stuck piston. the boot may be able to be moved aside a bit so some fliud in a surringe can be inserted ( no needle ) and lub the internals.

when the stuck piston has moved inwards, remove its clamp and use brake pedal to make it come out as much as you dare, BUT NOT ALL THE WAY OUT!!!!!!!.

repe4at repeat repeat till stiff piston free's off.

seals are available from big red I think ..............ar Peugeot parts....see exploded views on pug service box in guides..........hope thios helps as computer tiome out in 4 mins

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don't bang the crap out of it you will break summut....pics back tommoprrow

[powerandtorque]

Do you actually mean piston or do you mean the caliper-carrier sliders? Sounds more like the later from your description.

[Toms306]

Yup, its gonna be the sliders... 306 brakes are all single piston.

Remove the bolts (counterhold slide pin to stop it spinning), pull the sliders right out and re-grease them, re-assemble and should be fine.

[DazzaHDI]

I had the same problem so I got some 2nd hand gti6 calipers from the scrappy with half decent green stuff pads at a sweet price and just changed the sliders as the one bolt had sheered off and I had to cable tie it as quick fix -_-

[attachment=15698]

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Stupid phone! Sorry about the side ways pic!!

[Mattinthehat]

Yeah i mean caliper carrier sliders - sorry guys im no monkey wrench! Cheers for all the advise will try Toms306's idea sounds pretty much what i sussed out anyway :-)

And DazzaHDI - 10 points for ingenuity but i dont reckon they would let that slide for an MOT! lol

Going to get cracking this eve if i get stuck ill give a shout!

Thanks all

ps will up some pics when i get the wheel off...

[Mattinthehat]

Toms306 gets the prize for the right answer!! 15mins and it was sorted!

Heres a pic of what i meant anyway...



Thanks everyone for the input, its kind of hard when you have never done brakes before i dont want to go jumping in and making a larger problem, so thanks everyone again for your input, have to say everyone on this forum is friendly and very helpful - cheers!

[pug306driver]

glad you got it sorted........as a matter of interest how much where the discs??

[Mattinthehat]

I went for cheap and available (not just talking about myself haha!) that they had in my local parts dealer so bought a pair of Brakeworld discs at £14 each and pads for £18 a pair.

I just went for these to get it through its MOT, after the MOT ill be doing the following:

Oil change
Oil filter change
Fuel filter change
Air filter change to K&N (just the filter no cone filter or anything silly)
New glow plugs
New engine mounts (got an advisory and the exhaust is catching the sub)

Then my summer project is as follows;

De-cat
FMIC
Stage 2 remap
turn off/remove EGR
Oil cooler
wheel spacers
performance disks
Red stuff pads
Paint brake calipers
performance clutch and new LSD (if needed for a stage 2 map???)
Swap alloys for black cyclones
lower suspension + new shocks
sweeten the bodywork - may remove the meridian badge
blitz the interior - maybe pay some attention to the dash area and paint
may de-wiper

That should net me a sweet ride :-)

Doing all the work myself with no formal mechanical training whatsoever, just been shown a couple of things and generally i go off guides i find on dodgy pug forums ;-) so will post in the right section my progress.

Cheers

[DazzaHDI]

Yeah, that is what sheered off on mine! :/ my drilled and grooved discs with mintex pads weren't much more expensive, £83 with free p&p if I remember correctly
You don't need a new lsd for stage 2, clutch however, you may possibly need. Have a look through the dw10 section, plenty of info I'm going to try (when I eventually get round to going stage 2 ) my original clutch on a stage 2 with a smooth torque curve

[Toms306]

Glad it was sorted easy enough.


And Daz, just lol at the cable tie.... Did you drive on that?

[DazzaHDI]

Glad it was sorted easy enough.


And Daz, just lol at the cable tie.... Did you drive on that?

Yeah, I had too it's my daily
That happened on the Saturday, cable tie broke the Saturday night but luckily for having 6 brakes on cyclones as the carrier didn't have far to travel before resting on the inner rim. Re-cable tied it on the Sunday and changed it on the Wednesday
Cable ties FTW!

[Toms306]

Haha, fair enough! Good bodge tbh.