Any longer term Stage 2 HDi clutch reports/verdicts?

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Any longer term Stage 2 HDi clutch reports/verdicts?
#1
The topic on which clutch for Stage 2 HDi use has been done to death and the usual choices prety well defined - standard Luk/Sachs clutch and go slightly easy on it, Helix if you've deep pockets, or one of the CG Motorsport options as a good value inbetweener.

Most of the reports that I can find are from people that have not long fitted the clutch and/or haven't put many miles on them, usually either just after fitting the clutch or just after putting the Stage 2 map on.

What I'm interested in is who's had clutches running on Stage 2 HDi's for long periods and how are they holding up - say 12-18 months or longer?

Primarily I'm thinking the CG Motorsport options as that's the direction I'm swaying, but it would be interesting to hear about how all the various options are fairing with time and mileage.
1990 Peugeot 205 GTi 1.9 // 1991 Peugeot 205 GTi 1.9 16v // 1992 Peugeot 205 GTi 1.9 // 1999 Peugeot 306 HDi Estate
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#2
I heard a few tried the pull clutch from the XUD on an XU10 flywheel, don't know if that clutch could cope better or not but most of the Supercharged 6's are running similar torque to a mild tune HDI.
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#3
Others will probably disagree, but so far our stock 'new' valeo has lasted 30k/2+ years already with no signs of slip, full torque stage 2.. but if you're changing it anyway then a CG paddle is probably the best/cheapest option
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#4
(15-04-2014, 12:37 PM)welshpug Wrote: I heard a few tried the pull clutch from the XUD on an XU10 flywheel, don't know if that clutch could cope better or not but most of the Supercharged 6's are running similar torque to a mild tune HDI.

Heard rumours of people running XUD clutches, but again, not clear whether they're coping at the best part of 300lbft and going that route you've the added hassle of swapping to a pull type clutch - not the end of the world though of course.

The low-boost SC setups only running similar torque to a Stage 1 HDi, somewhere around 200-220lbft, fed in quite progressively too if the ones I've driven are anything to go by. If so, hardly surprising that they're alright on a healthy standard clutch - a new / low mileage standard clutch will be absolutely fine long term on a Stage 1 HDi too.

Stage 2 HDi is going to be more akin to what the high-boost SC cars are managing - around 270-280lbft - and probably a fair bit more abrupt in terms of delivery too which doesn't help the clutch one iota.

Any idea what the high-boost SC's are running clutch wise? I couldn't see any mention of anything on the Lynx price list, suggesting possibly standard.

(15-04-2014, 12:41 PM)Midnightclub Wrote: Others will probably disagree, but so far our stock 'new' valeo has lasted 30k/2+ years already with no signs of slip, full torque stage 2.. but if you're changing it anyway then a CG paddle is probably the best/cheapest option

Thanks, that's the exact sort of thing that I'm looking to hear - I've got x clutch, running a Stage 2 map, and it's lasted this long so far Smile

I had been considering the "good" standard clutch route but had some doubts of how long they would last at full Stage 2 torque, so your reply makes interesting reading.
1990 Peugeot 205 GTi 1.9 // 1991 Peugeot 205 GTi 1.9 16v // 1992 Peugeot 205 GTi 1.9 // 1999 Peugeot 306 HDi Estate
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#5
(15-04-2014, 01:51 PM)powerandtorque Wrote:
(15-04-2014, 12:41 PM)Midnightclub Wrote: Others will probably disagree, but so far our stock 'new' valeo has lasted 30k/2+ years already with no signs of slip, full torque stage 2.. but if you're changing it anyway then a CG paddle is probably the best/cheapest option

Thanks, that's the exact sort of thing that I'm looking to hear - I've got x clutch, running a Stage 2 map, and it's lasted this long so far Smile

I had been considering the "good" standard clutch route but had some doubts of how long they would last at full Stage 2 torque, so your reply makes interesting reading.

One thing that I think substantially helps clutch life on these is how they're driven, you've gotta have some sort of mechanical sympathy if you want it to last, my general rule of thumb is to rev it a little more and try not to go flat out from down low, i think it's the sudden torque spike that kills them and so if you keep it up high (relative obviously) it tends to make it last longer.

The bedding in process helps too, Started out on a stage 1 map for a few thousand miles, then went stage 2 torque reduced for a few thousand more miles and then eventually the full fat stage 2 which has been on there ever since. I think most who've tried and disliked a stock clutch have done few miles and gone straight onto a full fat stage 2... my 2p anyway
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#6
The only long-termers i know of all run helix or sachs paddle clutches, except for mrsmidnight.
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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#7
I had MrWhippy stage 2 limited torque map on (what I believe) the factory fitted clutch for several months, the full torque map would cause it to slip.

Otherwise coped fine on the stage 1 & stage 2 limited torque map for my ownership which was around 12 months.
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#8
Surely it depends massively on the mapper and the driver? If the torque coming in is dulled down a bit and the driver doesnt mash it at 1500rpm it'll last ages? If you have a really aggressive torque curve it'll slip it pretty easy...
Doesnt even own a 306.
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#9
Ive been running a mr whippy stage 2 map for 35k miles now, it is on the factory fitted clutch (only done 20k when mapped)... I haven't been gentle on it and is now starting to slip if abused (full throttle from low low revs) but if I use the gears more it is fine and im sure itll have more life left in it.

Depending on how you drive, and if you don't totally abuse it, I feel one of the best options would be a standard (either genuine or a good oe replacement) part. Even more so if you are able to do the swap yourself and save some pennies, how many standard clutches can you get for the price of a helix? Let alone the difference in the drive (the harder pedal of the helix or the bite of a paddle)...

In my old car I opted for a helix and is was great, didn't get that many miles in it but handled it great. But this time, when its due to be replaced (approaching 60k now so don't think itll be much longer) I think it will be just a standard clutch going in and go from there.

Im sure all the mapping lads will confirm, but you can alter the mapping to suit, it doesn't have to be full torque at once, if you have a smooth enough torque curve you can still run the same power but make it a hell of a lot easier on the clutch.

That's just my opinion anyway
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#10
The standard clutch will hold around 250 lbsft for a good while but any more and it will slip right up to 3-4k rpm, its constantly on the edge too so a bit hit and miss
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