Brake Pipe Problems!

[Toms306]

Hi guys,

Ended up twisting of the rear brake pipes today.

They're copper and I think there's enough 'spare' for me to cut the twisted part and just re-flare the ends while still on the car. Is this likely or will I have to cut further back and stick another join in?

Also, can anyone recommend a good, cheap flaring tool that I can use on the car (not vice mounted) and can buy tomorrow at a shop (almost forgot what these are since ebay tbh ). And they're just a 'normal' 11mm connector right, I can't get the wrong ones?

Cheers,
Tom

[Connor]

Id just take the broken pipe to a motor factors and get them to make a new pipe

[Toms306]

It runs the whole length of the car I think, surely that's not cheap. Its both of them as well!

[Grant]

You can get flaring kits from halfords for ~£14

You should have enough slack on the rear pipes to pull and inch or so along. Failing that get a length of copper pipe (100mm) and run that in with some new unions. Will be a piece of piss as you have the flaring too anyway.

[kentiiboii]

It runs the whole length of the car I think, surely that's not cheap. Its both of them as well!

I bought one that ran length of the 306 before think it cost like £7. Probably the one your thinking runs down one side of the car and across the beam.

[Grant]

Oh, just remember the 306 is double flared! Otherwise you will be losing fluid rapidly!

[Connor]

Oh probably should have asked which pipe you had broken, thought you were on about the on from flexi to calliper

[welshpug]

there are no full front to rear pipes, there's a joiner just above the front subframe, as to where it joins at the rear depends if its drums or discs abs or not.

a full roll of pipe is a mere tenner so it wont be expensive to make a complete new pipe.

[Toms306]

You can get flaring kits from halfords for ~£14

You should have enough slack on the rear pipes to pull and inch or so along. Failing that get a length of copper pipe (100mm) and run that in with some new unions. Will be a piece of piss as you have the flaring too anyway.

Ah if its that cheap will be straight to Halfords in the morning then!

Oh, just remember the 306 is double flared! Otherwise you will be losing fluid rapidly!

Wait, what?

Oh probably should have asked which pipe you had broken, thought you were on about the on from flexi to calliper

No, tbh I shoula been clearer in the OP, I changed the beam so used the 'furthest' unions from the caliper.

there are no full front to rear pipes, there's a joiner just above the front subframe, as to where it joins at the rear depends if its drums or discs abs or not.

a full roll of pipe is a mere tenner so it wont be expensive to make a complete new pipe.

there are no full front to rear pipes, there's a joiner just above the front subframe, as to where it joins at the rear depends if its drums or discs abs or not.

a full roll of pipe is a mere tenner so it wont be expensive to make a complete new pipe.

I'd call the subframe the front, so that's front to rear imo...

I'd prefer not make a whole new one but will see how badly it goes haha.

[Grant]

The 306 uses a double flare system. Youtube how to double flare. It's simple.

Single flaring one union will cause a leak so be sure to have the same type of flare throughout the system

[306Dan]

For the pipe that toms on about it should be single flare, although double checking the old pipe is ideal, I've got one laying round in the garden I'll have a look tomorrow if you want me to

[swampy]

Male ends have single flare
Female ends have double flare .
So they butt up in to each other

[Toms306]

Male ends have single flare
Female ends have double flare .
So they butt up in to each other

Ah ok, I did already know that, just didn't realise that was called 'double' flaring, thanks all.

---

It's this one btw.

[Grant]

You can get single and double female flaring so be careful

[gretsch-drummer]

There should be a join right under the boot floor near to where ABS sensors are clipped to the shell....

Surely yours don't go from the flexi right to the front???

[Toms306]

There should be a join right under the boot floor near to where ABS sensors are clipped to the shell....

Surely yours don't go from the flexi right to the front???

Yeah the do, they were replaced fairly recently, I thought there should've been another join as well lol.

[gretsch-drummer]

Ooooooh lordy.

Sucks to be you.

Enjooooooooy!

[welshpug]

chop it on the other side of the boot floor and add a joiner, save faffing with the full pipe.

[Toms306]

Yeah that's what I'll do I think.

Got a flaring kit and stuff today so that's tomorows job lol.

[gretsch-drummer]

Just to drill in into your head.......

!!!!!!!!!!PUT THE UNION ON BEFORE FLARING!!!!!!!!!

(because you'd look a right twit if you don't.....coughcough)

[Toms306]

Lol, can guarantee I'll forget to do that atleast once tbh...

[Toms306]

So, I failed pretty badly at this...

And I've lost any confidence in doing it myself now tbh. How long would it take a garage to replace the front to rear solid lines roughly? Exhaust and spare are out of the way still so they wouldnn't have to remove them.

[Danny2009]

Just get a motor factors to make up a full length pipe be cheaper than £ra*e.99 at a garage

[Toms306]

I can make the pipe. I just keep f*cking up fitting it! Keep cross-threading unions or the copper bends/twists as I'm trying to tighten it on the car. Thinking its just best to leave to a professional as brakes kinda important.