PH2 Central Locking

[Grant]

Which one of you lovelies can tell me:

have a PH2 system running on an IR system

Is my system:
-Negative Trigger
-Positive Trigger
-Positive and Negative Trigger

Following the answer to the above, which wires do i hack into and where are they, to find:

-The lock signal
-The unlock signal

Muchos Gracias

[WiNgNuTz]

Pass. Next question?




Am I helping?

[Grant]

No. I would expect you of all people to be able to help me with electrics! lol

[WiNgNuTz]

Wtf made you think that?!

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My brother is the electrical whiz, not me!

[Grant]

Can anybody shed some light on this?

[Rich306]

Infrared Signaling and how it works.

IR remotes operate by modulating (turning on and off) an infra red (IR) light source. When the IR light source (the IR emitter) is "on" it is actually turning itself on and off thousands of times per second, too fast for the human eye to follow. The rate at which this occurs is called the carrier frequency. The terminology comes from the metaphor that the "carrier" carries the "information". This is done to provide a better transmission system and allow the overall IR system (transmitter and receiver) to operate in noisy (with respect to light) environments. It is important to understand that the IR receiver for a given remote is tuned to IR "carrier" frequency for that remote and will effectively not see IR signals sent on a different carrier frequency such as from other remotes. [Note: The human eye can never see an infrared transmission, so the concept of on and off is not with regards to visible light. Some equipment has a "telltale", a little red light that visibly flashes when the equipment receives IR signals. That is what we can see]

The "information" is placed on the "carrier" using several different techniques. The most common technique is Pulse Width Modulation. In Pulse Width Modulation the duration of the ON (carrier present, light flashing thousands of times per second), or Off (no light at all coming out of the IR emitter) periods is made to vary. Lets assume, because this is what is done, that we wish to send numbers representing what key has been pressed (and perhaps even what device this key is for). We first need to simplify the problem so that we don’t have deal with too many "Pulse widths". We can easily do this by representing the number in base 2, or binary. (I apologize if this now gets a little technical, but in reality it already has). In binary there are only two digits to worry about not ten as in decimal. Therefore we only need to have two distinct "pulse widths". If you think about it, the periods of on and off will need to alternate. If they didn’t it would be hard to judge their width. [Note: Other modulation schemes in particular RC5 do not use PWM. RC5 uses Phase modulation. Luckily for us we never have to decode or figure out the RC5 patterns because Philips has provided them as pure clean data. If you wish to know more about the RC-5 bi-phase method, read Guy Kuo's document.] Only one of the widths needs to vary. Either the width of the ON period or the Width of the Off period.

Hope this helps in a way.

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So if i'm imagining the signal receiver in the roof of the car, you'd have a constant live with 2 switched lives, I imagine that a positive signal would be sent out to unlock the doors and same again down a different cable to lock the doors.

Get a multimeter to identify when the ceiling unit is down as to what cables go live when operating the doors

[cully]

dont know yet
but may soon as im pissed off with my ir ph2 not having a range like the ph3 rf
i may have a go at grafting a rf system into the ir system

[Grant]

You are a hero, thanks cully you going ace this month?

[cully]

You are a hero, thanks cully you going ace this month?

nope not going ace but i am considering the action day on the 14th

[Grant]

Ah fair enough man. May well see you there then! x

[devils_fuel]

You are a hero, thanks cully

Seconded, get the idiots guide up soon lol

[Chris]

Paul, if you want the rf locking its likely to be easier to do a full ph3 loom conversion.
Reason being all the ir stuff is done through the box under the rear seat, while the rf is the bsi box wich also controls all the indicator wiring too.
But if anyone can do it without changing the loom I'm sure you could.

Grant. The box that controls it all is under the rear bench, drivers side. There is a lock and unlock signal wire in there somewhere (seen it mentioned with wire nos either on here or the GTi forum) presuming they will be positive trigger.

[Grant]

Paul, if you want the rf locking its likely to be easier to do a full ph3 loom conversion.
Reason being all the ir stuff is done through the box under the rear seat, while the rf is the bsi box wich also controls all the indicator wiring too.
But if anyone can do it without changing the loom I'm sure you could.

Grant. The box that controls it all is under the rear bench, drivers side. There is a lock and unlock signal wire in there somewhere (seen it mentioned with wire nos either on here or the GTi forum) presuming they will be positive trigger.

I've not come across a box under the rear bench mate?

My interior is fully stripped and the only black boxes are under the drivers seat and behind the drivers rear quarter

[Chris]

On the ph1s its tucked up under the black tin shit.

On the ph2 it may be in the rear quarter, black box iirc with two big multi plugs going into it one white and the other grey.

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[Grant]

On the ph1s its tucked up under the black tin shit.

On the ph2 it may be in the rear quarter, black box iirc with two big multi plugs going into it one white and the other grey.

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[attachment=9678]

Sounds like the one in the rear quarter.

Mines Ph2 y'see

[Chris]

   

[Grant]

Definitely not got that lol

[Chris]

http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=129396

Wire colours are mentioned in here

[cully]

Grant. The box that controls it all is under the rear bench, drivers side. There is a lock and unlock signal wire in there somewhere (seen it mentioned with wire nos either on here or the GTi forum) presuming they will be positive trigger.

wires
620
621
622
im not 100% on this yes

[Tom]

On my phase one, it was the box under the rear seat, the plug had 2 orange wires going to one terminal and 2 purple wires going into another, negatively triggered. I tapped into one orange and one purple and now i can lock and unlock from 100meters away

[devils_fuel]

On my phase one, it was the box under the rear seat, the plug had 2 orange wires going to one terminal and 2 purple wires going into another, negatively triggered. I tapped into one orange and one purple and now i can lock and unlock from 100meters away

With the same fob etc??

[Tom]

No aftermarket fob.

[cully]

been and bought a kit for myself let the fun comence

nice flip key kit 3 button remote :S

[Grant]

Lemme know how you get on cully. Thats exactly what I'm trying to do xx

[cully]

my parcel has arrived
right guys im slowly working out the Pug system as ive not played with C/L before
ive worked out how the original system works ive sorted which wires to pick

i also believe i can get deadlocking to work too

i will take this to another thread form now on as the new thread will include more details of wires and kit ive bought
with photos and extra stuff

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Which one of you lovelies can tell me:

have a PH2 system running on an IR system

Is my system:
-Negative Trigger Yes it is Negative Trigger
-Positive Trigger
-Positive and Negative Trigger

Following the answer to the above, which wires do i hack into and where are they, to find:

-The lock signal wire Wire number 6251/6252
-The unlock signal Wire number 6231/6232

The lock and unlock wires are easyest to find under the drivers side rear bench seat

Muchos Gracias

to answer the above questions

[Grant]

Awesome stuff cully! Cheers fella, repped.

I do not hoever have a box under the bench. I have one under my drivers seat?