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All I know is theres the pikey way and the proper way... anyone care to explain a little more so I know what i'm talking about comes lowering time? Cheers
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The proper way is to remove the torsion bars mthe pikey way is the easier way (normaly) and involves smashing the trailing arm off.
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Im hoping to lower mine again on monday. If i cant do it the proper way then the pikey way will have to do!
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Ok so just smashing the arm off, turning it a bit and smashing it back on - so effectively the spline has still moved a few notches?
What are the downsides to the pikey way? (i.e. what makes it pikey?) haha
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People say that the suspension isnt independant anymore but that isnt stricktly true.
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Also,it all normally stars to fall apart after the pikey way
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Hmm, ive had two cars which ive paid others to do and I know the first was done properly but not sure about the second (hes a bit pikey) lol but never noticed any different!
Will wait and see if any suspension gurus comment before I post on the GTi site and get hammered for even suggesting that theres more than one method haha
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The guy who did mine explained to me (I have forgot the science behind it now) but said there really wasnt much difference! Depends what you prefer.
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I find hitting the trailing arm the pikey way causes the bearings to mark the shafts, and it will normally end up too high or low, the correct way it can be set anywhere
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Ye the pikey way you only have set amounts you can go!
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i've lowered 3 torsion bars, 2 i dont myself, another done by KrisB, all times done the ssame way, by removing the torsion bars - never would i pikey it due to it ruining the torsion bar bearings - the notch method, from what i understand, "snaps" the bearings past each other to move it... not healthy
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I did my old beam the pokey way and it was absolutely fine.
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Mine was lowered 3 notches on the notch method and then raised slightly using the torsion bar out method. And to be honest, I think my beam is because of the notch method!
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OK I CBA to read the thread but the two ways are,
1- the proper way - this is to pull the torsion bars out, raise the suspension using a jack to the required height and then rotate the bar until it slots back in again
advantages of this are that you don't disturb the bearings for the trailing arms and you can put the car at any height you want as you can rotate the bar until it goes in at both ends)
disadvantages of this method is that its more involved, a bit fiddly and generally harder to do than just smashing the arms off!
2 - the pikey way - this is reserved for when the above isn't going to plan or for when your a pikey! it involves using a BFO hammer and smashing the inside of the trailing arms (after removing the bolts obviously) which knocks the trailing arm out of the beam tube and will pull one end of the bar free.
advantages of this method are that its relatively easy to do and normally works if you hit it hard enough.
disadvantages of doing it like this is that you can only lower the car in massive steps as you only get one end of the torsion bar free so you have only one spline at a time of adjustment, (IIRC its something like 30mm, 50mm, 80mm) vs putting it where you like with the above method, the other problem doing it like this is that you are disturbing the bearings in the rear beam by removing and re-fitting the trailing arms, if the bearings are worn the are likely to drop to bits when you remove the trailing arm meaning that you can't put it back together or more likely not go back quite right resulting in the bearings wearing out almost instantly giving you the dreaded rear camber!
Hope that helps, obviously all of the above is IMO but this is speaking from experience
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mines bin done the pikey way and my rear axle as bin lowered coming up 2and half years now and bearings still good and not evan camberd
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Only reason the pikey way can result in a failing beam is because it disturbs your bearings / seals...but if they do fail shortly afterm than they were f*cked anyway so might as well have been replaced...
The pikey way doesn't have to lower in set amounts, that's just if your uber lazy and only let one side come out.... The whole point of the arm smashing method is if you dont have a slide hammer / puller.... All you do is leave one side fixed, smash it till it releases, then put it back in, fix the other side, and smash again, then it will be free both ends, and torsion bar can be removed fully as per doing it the correct way.... best bet is to just do it the "pikey" way and change the bearings / seals while your at it, job done.
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i would say the bearings have bin changed on mine as its still fine 2 and a half years later
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I was more refering to the "notch method" Darren which is a half arsed attempt at what you call the "pikey method"
studturbo Wrote:i would say the bearings have bin changed on mine as its still fine 2 and a half years later
Cool story Bro............
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How much do the bearings and seals cost?
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wasnt cheap cost me £100 in all bearings and seals
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Foxy-jim Wrote:How much do the bearings and seals cost?
Last time I looked a refurb kit was ~£80
Edit:- OK they have gone up a bit......
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Peugeot-205-3 ... 3648wt_762
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Foxy-jim Wrote:Omg!
What??? A refurbed beam is about £250+.....
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thats cheap that foxy lol
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i payed 100 for all mine
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What should I do then? Should I buy them in case the bearings are ruined or just see what happens?
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Just do it and see what happens.............
OK Stu, we know you paid £100 for yours..........you told us twice within 5 mins.........
studturbo Wrote:wasnt cheap cost me £100 in all bearings and seals
studturbo Wrote:i payed 100 for all mine
And triple post, WTF, edit button exists for a reason, please use it!
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mark_airey Wrote:Just do it and see what happens.............
OK Stu, we know you paid £100 for yours..........you told us twice within 5 mins.........
studturbo Wrote:wasnt cheap cost me £100 in all bearings and seals
studturbo Wrote:i payed 100 for all mine
And triple post, WTF, edit button exists for a reason!
Sorry mark :'(
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