New turbo downpipe idea's (pics inside)

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New turbo downpipe idea's (pics inside)
#1
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I'm in the process of fitting my new snail to the manifold and was thinking of down pipe idea's. I plan to use a similar set-up to Cpellows which was a 3" 90 deg' pipe, flexi and step reducer. Problem is the turbo exit (being a VNT) is rather small, 50mm/2 inches.
Now do I just stick with that size straight to the exhaust or open it to a 3" then back down again. Ideally I would like a straight 3" exhaust but don't have the funds or time ATM.
Ideas welcome Smile

Anyway here's some pics;

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Size whore-ing/ K14 vs GT.

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Vacuum act' converted to boost

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#2
Make it bigger as soon as you can, so literally right off the turbo do a expander 90 up to a minimum of 2 1/4" but better if it was 2.5 Smile
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#3
Get your plate made up to bolt to the flange and see what the biggest elbow you can fit between the bolt holes is. Can easily get a 2.5" bit of pipe on there!
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#4
Ideally I need some kinda cone that's very short as I don't want it hitting the linkages plus so it gets more flow. May have to trim the studs so I can get more or a birth on it.
How was yours done Darren?
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#5
I had no idea it was that small! inb4giggidy
Doesnt even own a 306.
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#6
(29-12-2012, 10:16 PM)strictly_derv Wrote: Ideally I need some kinda cone that's very short as I don't want it hitting the linkages plus so it gets more flow. May have to trim the studs so I can get more or a birth on it.
How was yours done Darren?

Do it like this fella.

Black lines are the flange, red line would be the exhaust elbow welded onto it. Should still leave enough material to seal properly.

Check JJC Race and Rally for elbows. I got mine from there, it's not a mandrel bend, it's two plates welded together for a tight radius. I've loads of space to the linkages and gear selector.


Attached Files Image(s)
   
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#7
Cheers Chris. Do we think the 2.5 will be ok then?
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#8
Should be at a constant radius. 2.5" is what the high boost SC6 boys run and they flow 400+bhp out of that.

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That's a 2.5" tight radius bend on there, loads of space down the back. I know yours is a bigger blower but it should still fit.
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#9
This for the adaptor plate;

http://www.jjcraceandrally.com/kit-car/e...ith-gasket

Bend;

http://www.jjcraceandrally.com/kit-car/e...haust-bend

reducer;

http://www.jjcraceandrally.com/kit-car/e...ed-sleeves

flexi;

http://www.jjcraceandrally.com/kit-car/e...xible-tube
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#10
Yep, yep, yep and yep. Personally i'd check somewhere like eBay for the flexi as that's a bit pricey though. That's the same elbow I have.

Will that flange fit the turbo? I'd have just got some plate steel and cut it myself tbh, no guarantee that the bolt holes will line up or that it will seal properly.
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#11
Yeah I've found a flexi on ebay for half that, not too fussed about stainless really. Might give the flange a miss, like you say no guarantee.
Found them all on ebay for £34 apart from the flange.

Just need to get this thing clocked, VNT control sorted, bolted to the mani, oil line then get it fitted. Should keep me busy in my very limited spare time Itwasntme
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#12
As a side note, it looks fecking massive! What GT series is that?
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#13
Just to join in conversation. I am midway through what your plan is.
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Just need a flexi to go in between and weld it all up!
Doesnt even own a 306.
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#14
Just saw your pic you posted, musta missed it before. Yeah I'm sure it will be fine, I've got a spare engine and box in the garage to try things on which is handy.
Yeah she's a fair old size but appears bigger than it actually is due to the VNT system. It's a GT25 variation. Can't wait to try it out, she go' be crazeeey!

Looks alright that Tom, would be nice to see the old sigma running a proper blower Nospeak
What size is the pipe?
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#15
Whaaaa want much! That thing's going to fly sir!

Ideally I want to run a 60mm compressor from a GTB one day but they go for silly money, would need to find a compatible compressor housing too. Would make silly boost but that's way down the line once I figure out how to get the 56 working. Still need to buy another blower and tax the motor anyway so not much happening at the minute Sad
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#16
2.5 bend to a 2.5 flexi then onto a 2.5 reducer down to sleeve over my 2.25 exhaust if that makes sense?
Doesnt even own a 306.
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#17
Perfect sense and exactly what I've done
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#18
Mine running a 59 wheel Wink Will only run it at 20 odd psi as it shouldn't need much more. Plus I like the rods in the engine and the head staying where it is....But I do love boost too....
I really hope I can get this VNT working properly :\ I may even take the car off the road for a few weeks and get a cheap run around and get it all sorted and ready for the MOT.
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#19
Ah don't be a pussy and just go for it. I now know the limits of my setup. How will you find out the limits of yours if you don't break a few things?
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#20
It may happen, I mean it's fairly quick as it is, will embarrass most things including V8 BMW's, VXR's ect so extra performance isn't key it, mainly better drivability.
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#21
(29-12-2012, 11:09 PM)strictly_derv Wrote: It may happen, I mean it's fairly quick as it is, will embarrass most things including V8 BMW's, VXR's ect so extra performance isn't key it, mainly better drivability.

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#22
As Chris has shown and Darren and Ruan shouted alot dont go over 30psi with the GT series Wink
Doesnt even own a 306.
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#23
I won't be Tom, 22psi will be the max probably BecauseEpicFlowRates.

I've be doing some measurements and by the looks of thing it probably going to need a 2 to 2.5 in cone on the hot side going onto a 2.5 mandrel.
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#24
Hmm, aye you'd struggle to get a 2.5" pipe between those studs. Shame, the more you have coming away from the hotside, the tighter the elbow radius needs to be or you'll end up with the elbow pointing at the transmission tunnel wall.

Could be awkward...
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#25
Thats my thoughts Chris. PLan it get one of theeese and cut it where it opens to 2.5 inches then weld on a mandrel. In theory it should be ok as the VNT stick out alot less due to a lack of waste gate.
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#26
Oft, looks uber fiddly, rather you than me! Make sure the welding's top notch man, can't help but think it may crack between the cone and the elbow given the lateral engine movement compared to the weld..
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#27
Hopefully will be getting a person I know who works in a forge/metal mungerer. His welding/metal skills are pretty impressive.
I can't see any other option other than going for a 2.25 pipe though really?
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#28
Well if you hadn't bought a blower with such a stupid outlet you wouldn't be having this trouble.

You're an idiot.

/sore comment because i've still got no blower

Ooh actually.. why not get a pre-fabbed elbow in 2.5" and just bash the sides to allow clearance for the nuts?
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#29
(03-01-2013, 07:31 PM)cwspellowe Wrote: Well if you hadn't bought a blower with such a stupid outlet you wouldn't be having this trouble.

You're an idiot.

/sore comment because i've still got no blower

Ooh actually.. why not get a pre-fabbed elbow in 2.5" and just bash the sides to allow clearance for the nuts?

Wastegates are so last year TMI (even though I may fail at VNT control)

lmao that method did actually cross my mind. Too red reck maybe?

Maybe I could make a 3" plate to bolt onto the turbo, tap some threads, then bolt on 2.5 bend with another plate? Would be fiddly but could work.
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#30
Would be fiddly but would be best option for clearance I think. So yeah, bolt a plate on for the studs, then another plate rotated 60degrees with more studs/nuts with the elbow welded to that. Should be a piece of cake too.
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