Turbo timer.

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Turbo timer.
#1
Can't decide whether to get one or not bother. I usually leave the car idling for a few seconds before I turn it off anyway, but still keep looking at them on Ebay.

Are they worth messing with or not?
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#2
I had one on an old 306 gadget wise excellent but still unnerving lol
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#3
Im considering it for when i get the td04 on... I have a severe lack of patience lol
Doesnt even own a 306.
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#4
Get one, if you can be arsed fitting it and you're buying a bigger blower it's fully worth it, "a few seconds" may be enough if you've been pootling round town but if you've been driving hard you want a couple of minutes warm down, especially if you haven't taken it easy for the last few miles.

Saying that, if you run an EGT gauge it'd be easier to let the EGT's drop for 5 mins while driving casually. I just like the sound of a turbo timer lol

(28-12-2012, 06:07 PM)Tyronnster Wrote: I had one on an old 306 gadget wise excellent but still unnerving lol

Aye but if you connect it to the speedo it should kill the engine if anyone tries to move the car..
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#5
Speaking of EGT gauges, gotta get hold of one Big Grin Anyone got a thermocouple for sale? lol
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#6
I need to get a working one, the cheap POS I got didn't work from day 1 and McGill's have been less than helpful in replacing it. It only ever reads 0, even tried blowtorching it and nothing.
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#7
Didn't think there was a need for turbo timers on diesels tbh, not like they glow in the dark like on petrols, and egts drop pretty quickly when you're off boost.
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#8
I'm thinking cheapest gauge I can get, as IMHO it doesn't matter if it's accurate once I know what's "normal".

And then get a reasonable thermocouple.
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#9
I keep thinking about one of these.
Is there any issues with insurance after fitting one of these?
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#10
I'd just not drive like you stole it for the last part of your hooligan joy ride. Smile

Obviously the reality tends to be different though..

You're just going to be warming it up sitting there for a period of time... Tongue
PH1 306 XUD - 11mm VE, Big 'bine, TMIC = Plenty of coal, abuse, heatsoak and a power band of 4.3k - 6k = One shagged car.
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#11
Real noob question here but i dont know a huge amount about turbos (except i need one on my engine!) but what is the purpose of one of these and how do they work?
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1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
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#12
To keep the engine running to let the turbo spin down.. Or something like that lol

Not sure how it works, Cant be hard to set up though, theres only one wire that keeps the XUD running lol
Doesnt even own a 306.
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#13
Theory being... to keep the engine going after you park up and walk away to let oil through the turbo still to cool it down.

Something that if you had water cooling, you wouldn't need. But then again, you don't need either if you just don't mash your right foot for the last part of your boostin' session!
PH1 306 XUD - 11mm VE, Big 'bine, TMIC = Plenty of coal, abuse, heatsoak and a power band of 4.3k - 6k = One shagged car.
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#14
Ah i see so basically like a timed runlock almost? Get out the car, lock it and it still runs on for a certain period?
Team Eaton


1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
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#15
(28-12-2012, 08:40 PM)Niall Wrote: Ah i see so basically like a timed runlock almost? Get out the car, lock it and it still runs on for a certain period?

Yep! Smile
PH1 306 XUD - 11mm VE, Big 'bine, TMIC = Plenty of coal, abuse, heatsoak and a power band of 4.3k - 6k = One shagged car.
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#16
Theres xuds on here that run without a key anyway lol
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#17
They fit inline with the ignition, but with a timer before switching the ignition off, rather than the key doing it. So key out, lock the doors, engine keeps running til the timer reaches 0 and it kills the ignition.

They come with a feed for the speedo or handbrake light too, so if some chancer climbs in and drives off it kills the engine as soon as the car moves/handbrake taken off.
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#18
Anyone got a recommendation for a reasonable price one?
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#19
Why not make your own? Surely all you need is a timer of some sort and some wires to the solenoid on the pump..
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#20
Not when they're sub £25, it's not worth the effort lol
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#21
can see it
(28-12-2012, 09:09 PM)Ricky Wrote: Why not make your own? Surely all you need is a timer of some sort and some wires to the solenoid on the pump..

on a hdi it would be a lot more difficult. you would have to keep power to the ECU as well as stop the immobiliser kicking in until the timer times out
Team Eaton


1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
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#22
(28-12-2012, 09:33 PM)Niall Wrote: can see it
(28-12-2012, 09:09 PM)Ricky Wrote: Why not make your own? Surely all you need is a timer of some sort and some wires to the solenoid on the pump..

on a hdi it would be a lot more difficult. you would have to keep power to the ECU as well as stop the immobiliser kicking in until the timer times out

True, forgot it's for a HDI.
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#23
Be a bugger to wire in i would of thought :/
Doesnt even own a 306.
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#24
Actually that's a point, phase 3 cars would need the transponder present for the engine to run.

Is the transponder only used for startup, or is it required permanently?
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#25
(28-12-2012, 10:21 PM)cwspellowe Wrote: Actually that's a point, phase 3 cars would need the transponder present for the engine to run.

Is the transponder only used for startup, or is it required permanently?

transponder is only needed for start up. If you could fool the bsi into not turning off till the timer runs out, it wouldnt lock the ECU but then your central locking wouldnt work till the timer ran out. Best option would be to do away with your immobiliser but personally i wouldnt be happy with that
Team Eaton


1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
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#26
Does it lock the ECU to just that car though, or does it brick it?
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#27
Thing is, id never trust it 100% so id have to wait for it to shut down anyway, so may as well just wait and turn it off urself Tongue
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#28
(28-12-2012, 10:24 PM)cwspellowe Wrote: Does it lock the ECU to just that car though, or does it brick it?

When you put the key in and turn it to dash lights on, the BSI checks the key and if its good, sends a signal to the ECU saying its ok to work. Once the car is started you could take the fob away and it will run fine. When you turn the car off and remove power from the bsi and ECU, the BSI automatically sends a lock signal to the ECU. Thats why all the GTi guys pikey unlock their ECUs by removing them with the engine running. It doesnt receive that lock signal so stays working so no it wont brick it but if you were to take the ECU off your car whilst its running, move it to another HDi it would start but as soon as you turn the new car off, the BSI will send the lock signal and its locked in again to that BSI
Team Eaton


1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
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#29
Right but if the TT runs in line with the ignition, the BSI etc will still think the key's in the ignition surely?
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#30
(28-12-2012, 10:32 PM)cwspellowe Wrote: Right but if the TT runs in line with the ignition, the BSI etc will still think the key's in the ignition surely?

Correct but your central locking wont work until the BSI has gone from running to idle and neither will your alarm. And it would be pointless getting out of the car, going in doors then coming out a while later and locking it.
you could make a simple extra circuit so when the timer runs out, it locks the doors but i never have trusted automatic central locking. Had it on a cheap alarm on my 106 and i ended up locking my keys in the car several times lol
Team Eaton


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